A good .22LR round.....

[Daz1986]

Get yourself a target set up at 55yards and zero with your chosen rounds!! move back to 65yards and fire 3-5 rounds and keep moving back to your capabilities, measure the drop Learn how to use MOA and dial yourself in so your back on the mark ( i use a note book and know how my fallen shot changes over distance and write down my minutes of angle in a simple manner to refer to if needed)

 

i.E

55yards ZERO

65yards UP6 Example

75yards UP10

 

and so on!

i find that this enables me to hit quite consistently at various ranges.

Edited January 15, 2014 by Daz1986

[Dekers]

 

We have been here before. No rabbits come nailed to the spot! there is a fair old difference between a 75 yd shot and a 100 yd one then more still at 115! Dial in sure, zero? not for me.

about 50 is the best use of the trajectory curve with subs it matter not that is half way to 100 yds that's just co-incidental. its more about the height of the peak trajectory over the line of sight, further you push the range the higher the peak becomes.

 

Personally,

After trying many different zero set ups I found the 50 gave fewest misses from 20- 75 (hold becomes easy to apply progressively from 50-75 (that 25 yds slot is very easy to estimate well quickly by eye) Although I spent a fair few years

dialing past this I figured those shots were only really on in favourable wind conditions (4" FV @ 100 yds 10mph) so I changed to straight old fashioned hold over (6" at 100 with my rig) giving up to half a head wind max in those mentioned "good conditions". In deed with some good practice in ranging visually and shooting this way its quite surprising what the .22 is capable of range wise with a std fixed six scope

 

 

Its your option if you have glued down game though

 

If you actually had any experience and could open your mind you would know fully well a lot of people only have one or two permissions and know where they shoot from and where their rabbits come out, it isn't hunting it is sniping quite often.

 

I have a lot of sites and have favoured positions in many areas on many sites, I know fully well where rabbits are to be shot at set distances (within a few yards) and know the rifles I will need.

 

It is ridiculous to say the only distance to zero a .22lr is 50 yards. You zero at the distance that works for where/what you shoot. For many that may well mean a 50-60 yard zero, for others that may mean a 70-80-90-etc yard zero!

Edited January 15, 2014 by Dekers

[Catweazle]

Anyone who is keeping their shots in 1" kill zones at 100yds+, in the field, with sporting rifles and hunting ammunition should be shooting benchrest tournaments and winning gold medals.

[kent]

If you actually had any experience you would know fully well a lot of people only have one or two permissions and know where they shoot from and where their rabbits come out, it isn't hunting it is sniping quite often.

 

I have a lot of sites and favoured positions in many areas on many sites, I know fully well rabbits are to be shot at set distances (within a few yards) and know the rifles I will need.

 

It is ridiculous to say the only distance to zero a .22lr is 50 yards. You zero at the distance that works for where/what you shoot. For many that may well mean a 50-60 yard zero, for others that may mean a 70-80-90-etc yard zero!

Well frankly I think only one of us shows a lack of experience here and it aint me Dekers! The difference between 80 and 100 in rabbit terms is a few hops forward, the zero is quite markedly different though and increasing from 100- 120 quite significantly more as the curved path of the bullet accelerates in its fall to earth. Now if we take those two shots and think 80 - 120 !!!! Like I say fine if you have them all glued to the ground in advance

I have nothing to say about dialing in for a known shot, though this needs doing for each shot (even if its a case of "I need to take a moa off that one is a bit closer etc) its a perfectly fine way of static shooting used by many myself included at times (though I personally no longer do this with a .22 for reasons already mentioned). Dial in alterations still non the less work on a FIXED zero base (achieved by a 50 yd or so zero and setting the turret to 0 at that point)It is this fixed zero we are discussing here. Walking out with a .22 "zeroed" at 100 yards with subsonics expecting most of the bunnies to be 100 yards away is just Dumb imo and if anyone tries it I bet they are all seen squatting in the grass at 25 yards that day when your walking out- its called the law of xxx ! Heck best of luck hitting it your between 1 1/2" - 2" high as a wild guess quite likely more depending on so many factors like mount height etc. Peak trajectory on a .22 should not really ever exceed 1/2" on small quarry like rabbits IMO. I do not think it has to be 50yds but it is going to be 48-60 in 99 out of 100 rigs to achieve this 1/2" max Peak, some funny NV rigs with super high mounts I admit a complete lack of experience with and except the difference in how they might have to be set up. I rest my case with you though

[Dekers]

Well frankly I think only one of us shows a lack of experience here and it aint me Dekers! The difference between 80 and 100 in rabbit terms is a few hops forward, the zero is quite markedly different though and increasing from 100- 120 quite significantly more as the curved path of the bullet accelerates in its fall to earth. Now if we take those two shots and think 80 - 120 !!!! Like I say fine if you have them all glued to the ground in advance

I have nothing to say about dialing in for a known shot, though this needs doing for each shot (even if its a case of "I need to take a moa off that one is a bit closer etc) its a perfectly fine way of static shooting used by many myself included at times (though I personally no longer do this with a .22 for reasons already mentioned). Dial in alterations still non the less work on a FIXED zero base (achieved by a 50 yd or so zero and setting the turret to 0 at that point)It is this fixed zero we are discussing here. Walking out with a .22 "zeroed" at 100 yards with subsonics expecting most of the bunnies to be 100 yards away is just Dumb imo and if anyone tries it I bet they are all seen squatting in the grass at 25 yards that day when your walking out- its called the law of xxx ! Heck best of luck hitting it your between 1 1/2" - 2" high as a wild guess quite likely more depending on so many factors like mount height etc. Peak trajectory on a .22 should not really ever exceed 1/2" on small quarry like rabbits IMO. I do not think it has to be 50yds but it is going to be 48-60 in 99 out of 100 rigs to achieve this 1/2" max Peak, some funny NV rigs with super high mounts I admit a complete lack of experience with and except the difference in how they might have to be set up. I rest my case with you though

 

Which part of my reply didn't you understand that led to this irrelevant response?

Edited January 15, 2014 by Dekers

[kent]

Anyone who is keeping their shots in 1" kill zones at 100yds+, in the field, with sporting rifles and hunting ammunition should be shooting benchrest tournaments and winning gold medals.

That is just not true, RF benchrest is totally different (for one thing its scored on single shots at multiple targets not c2c generally unlike cf events). There will be dozens of people reading this who get 1" groups with the .22 when conditions are on for it. I do know a few ex-competitive rf shooters they don't necessarily make great shots in the field, just the same as the reverse case. Actually I feel MOA is the std test of the very best ammo in a .22 1/2" or less at 50 1" or less at 100. I should perhaps faint if I saw that done with one of those filthy barrels that never get cleaned and Remington ammo though I must say.

Perhaps you should look to the American Silhouette events for more details of what can be done "on the range" and this is generally against the clock with a semi auto

[Dekers]

That is just not true, RF benchrest is totally different (for one thing its scored on single shots at multiple targets not c2c generally unlike cf events). There will be dozens of people reading this who get 1" groups with the .22 when conditions are on for it. I do know a few ex-competitive rf shooters they don't necessarily make great shots in the field, just the same as the reverse case. Actually I feel MOA is the std test of the very best ammo in a .22 1/2" or less at 50 1" or less at 100. I should perhaps faint if I saw that done with one of those filthy barrels that never get cleaned and Remington ammo though I must say.

Perhaps you should look to the American Silhouette events for more details of what can be done "on the range" and this is generally against the clock with a semi auto

 

No doubt they all zero at 50 yards and dial in when they arrive at the range!

[kent]

Get yourself a target set up at 55yards and zero with your chosen rounds!! move back to 65yards and fire 3-5 rounds and keep moving back to your capabilities, measure the drop Learn how to use MOA and dial yourself in so your back on the mark ( i use a note book and know how my fallen shot changes over distance and write down my minutes of angle in a simple manner to refer to if needed)

 

i.E

55yards ZERO

65yards UP6 Example

75yards UP10

 

and so on!

i find that this enables me to hit quite consistently at various ranges.

Quite right, the notes shown are not in MOA though they are click counting- nothing wrong with that its how British forces snipers compile their data on the ranges initially. Using MOA the shooter can allow for depressing or lifting winds on trajectory and can furthermore record a std FV windage chart again using 1/2, 1/2 or double etc for changes (some also work on correction per MPH but I think 10mph has become almost a world std default FV these days). I assume this is only a text and example mis match though in your post just thought it best to ease confusion, good post !

[Catweazle]

That is just not true, RF benchrest is totally different (for one thing its scored on single shots at multiple targets not c2c generally unlike cf events). There will be dozens of people reading this who get 1" groups with the .22 when conditions are on for it. I do know a few ex-competitive rf shooters they don't necessarily make great shots in the field, just the same as the reverse case. Actually I feel MOA is the std test of the very best ammo in a .22 1/2" or less at 50 1" or less at 100. I should perhaps faint if I saw that done with one of those filthy barrels that never get cleaned and Remington ammo though I must say.

Perhaps you should look to the American Silhouette events for more details of what can be done "on the range" and this is generally against the clock with a semi auto

We shoot it at my club, there are a few guys there who get upset if they drop below 297 ex 300. However, they are are shooting at a fixed, known range, with excellent quality target ammunition, wind flags, bench rests, solid tables and chairs, Anschutz target rifles with adjustable stocks and hooks, spirit levels, high powered optics etc. etc.

 

To do it "in the field" at 100yds + is not a walk in the park, and I'm not talking about a one-off shot, you've got to be able to do it nearly every time at unknown ranges in unknown wind with cheap hunting ammunition and no sighting shot, with the bipod on uneven ground.

[kent]

We shoot it at my club, there are a few guys there who get upset if they drop below 297 ex 300. However, they are are shooting at a fixed, known range, with excellent quality target ammunition, wind flags, bench rests, solid tables and chairs, Anschutz target rifles with adjustable stocks and hooks, spirit levels, high powered optics etc. etc.

 

To do it "in the field" at 100yds + is not a walk in the park, and I'm not talking about a one-off shot, you've got to be able to do it nearly every time at unknown ranges in unknown wind with cheap hunting ammunition and no sighting shot, with the bipod on uneven ground.

Unusual set up at your club " target hooks Anschults target riles and equipped with optics?" none the less. The .22 indeed all the rimfires are limited in the field by prevailing conditions there is actually little in it on the wind front at 100 yds between .22 and .17 and for ease of reckoning you can say 4" for both at 100 yds in a full value 10mph (its slightly less with a .17). Yes this limits when you can do it

The fact remains that Target .22 rifles are not inherently a great deal more accurate than their field variants, especially when your looking at the Varmint variants. This is backed up by the guns used in RF benchrest (often modified .22 varmint spec rifles).

I tried target ammo to see if I could squeeze just a little more out of my .22, the fact is RWS, SK subs are just as good and no differences could be seen consistently. If I remember correctly I think CCI "green?" tag produced slightly improved windages though not by vast amounts, I have the results some place of testing in quite challenging wind to find this.

So chances of shooting sub 1" at 100 in a fishtailing 10-15mph wind with a sporting rifle or placing that one and only shot in the field? Not good! 1" at 100 under easy conditions? like I say plenty are doing it, though yes you need to pick your days and don't expect to do this well for the first few years (remember some guys have been at this long enough to remember when they used to shoot a bit better)

[Whitebridges]

I wouldn't know which approach is best. But what I do know is that if I messed about with a range finder and then twiddled knobs on my scope, bunny would be long gone and would have hopped off in to the hedge!

Zero set at 60 yards, use POA and/or hold over, hold under as required. With a good bit of practice know your target distances and gun ammo combination(s). it's as straightforward as that.

Edited January 15, 2014 by Whitebridges

[wymberley]

I wouldn't know which approach is best. But what I do know is that if I messed about with a range finder and then twiddled knobs on my scope, bunny would be long gone and would have hopped off in to the hedge!

Zero set at 60 yards, use POA and/or hold over, hold under as required. With a good bit of practice know your target distances and gun ammo combination(s). it's as straightforward as that.

Whereas I'm in favour of technology and progress were appropriate, regarding the topic under discussion the fact of the matter is that it does not matter one jot how many knobs, dots, wheels, lines, bells, MoA, Mils or anything else you may have available to you on your scope, nothing, absolutely nothing, is going to replace the plain and simple validity of the answer above.

[Daz1986]

Quite right, the notes shown are not in MOA though they are click counting- nothing wrong with that its how British forces snipers compile their data on the ranges initially. Using MOA the shooter can allow for depressing or lifting winds on trajectory and can furthermore record a std FV windage chart again using 1/2, 1/2 or double etc for changes (some also work on correction per MPH but I think 10mph has become almost a world std default FV these days). I assume this is only a text and example mis match though in your post just thought it best to ease confusion, good post !

it was just an example yes mate, but i used the notebook methods in the mil and still use it now on the private contractor side as well as at home in the fields. It works for me and does give me tried and tested good results. as for the guys going on about range finders and how fast you can take a shot, again i know my land and have ,

made up a range card! this is a field of arc where your shooting with prominent land marks on them ( i.e mark a fence post or a fallen tree ) i give these ranges! i.e fallen tree 110 yards so i know anything in that area is give or take very close to that distance so it takes me no time at all to line up and fire a round off. again guys this is just what i use and hope it helps some of you

Edited January 15, 2014 by Daz1986

[apache]

There is one place on a farm where I shoot with a rabbit warren in a bankside. There is very little cover and the bunnies are twitchy. No chance with a lamp and you can't get close in daytime because they see you approach. The best technique is sitting in under a tree almost exactly 100 meters away. Quite a nice way to spend a summers evening with the HMR. If I only had a .22 then I'd zero it for 100m for this particular job and point and shoot. The rabbits will all be within a couple of meters of the same range.

 

That was what I was illuding to in my example, not saying 100 meters/yards is an ideal zero range for general field use.

[kent]

it was just an example yes mate, but i used the notebook methods in the mil and still use it now on the private contractor side as well as at home in the fields. It works for me and does give me tried and tested good results. as for the guys going on about range finders and how fast you can take a shot, again i know my land and have ,

made up a range card! this is a field of arc where your shooting with prominent land marks on them ( i.e mark a fence post or a fallen tree ) i give these ranges! i.e fallen tree 110 yards so i know anything in that area is give or take very close to that distance so it takes me no time at all to line up and fire a round off. again guys this is just what i use and hope it helps some of you

I suspected that's were you learnt it. The range card you mention is especially useful I have them for various high seats, interception points etc., etc I haven't used some in a decade or more, I doubt the big trees, embankments and steel roads etc have shifted their locations

[kent]

There is one place on a farm where I shoot with a rabbit warren in a bankside. There is very little cover and the bunnies are twitchy. No chance with a lamp and you can't get close in daytime because they see you approach. The best technique is sitting in under a tree almost exactly 100 meters away. Quite a nice way to spend a summers evening with the HMR. If I only had a .22 then I'd zero it for 100m for this particular job and point and shoot. The rabbits will all be within a couple of meters of the same range.

 

That was what I was illuding to in my example, not saying 100 meters/yards is an ideal zero range for general field use.

So your talking dialing in for shooting that location? This is quite different from changing an established zero. Unlike the HMR the .22 will vary a fair amount from exactly 100. The range card spoke of above can be adapted by adding 3 or 4 white topped pegs in say a 100 yard arc from that tree on such a location.

[sixhills 69]

There is one place on a farm where I shoot with a rabbit warren in a bankside. There is very little cover and the bunnies are twitchy. No chance with a lamp and you can't get close in daytime because they see you approach. The best technique is sitting in under a tree almost exactly 100 meters away. Quite a nice way to spend a summers evening with the HMR. If I only had a .22 then I'd zero it for 100m for this particular job and point and shoot. The rabbits will all be within a couple of meters of the same range.

 

That was what I was illuding to in my example, not saying 100 meters/yards is an ideal zero range for general field use.

Make yourself a good ghillie suit use field craft move slow and low on your belly you should be able to get into a good shooting position or use night vision

[Daz1986]

So your talking dialing in for shooting that location? This is quite different from changing an established zero. Unlike the HMR the .22 will vary a fair amount from exactly 100. The range card spoke of above can be adapted by adding 3 or 4 white topped pegs in say a 100 yard arc from that tree on such a location.

pegs are another great idea for a range card, If your shooting at night just break a cyalume (Glowstick) and dip the pegs if your out in the day ( as Kent said whites tipped), that way you still have good eyes on your distance markers day of night.

Edited January 15, 2014 by Daz1986

[Catweazle]

On the subject of range markers, wooden stakes that have been charred in a fire stand out very well as darkest black under NV, particularly if you tie two together as a cross.

[kent]

Make yourself a good ghillie suit use field craft move slow and low on your belly you should be able to get into a good shooting position or use night vision

 

you will just feel a **** that's all Rabbits aint that smart you can lay out in advance in a bare field ( wearing regular outdoor clothes) and they even approach you if the wind is in your face and you don't fidget too much

[sixhills 69]

you will just feel a **** that's all Rabbits aint that smart you can lay out in advance in a bare field ( wearing regular outdoor clothes) and they even approach you if the wind is in your face and you don't fidget too much

See Field Craft my point exactly