photon Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 I have a CBC pump action 12g with a fixed full choke. Should i have the choke opened and what to. I use it for clay shooting and pigeon 'not from a hide' with at best ok results. Imput will be gratefully received. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Pattern it first and see how it's actually shooting. 1/2 is a run of the mill sensible option which can then be opened/tightened to your requirements by changing cartridges to suit. Or if you figure the gun is worth it, get it threaded ('Teagued') for multi-choke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 Do it yourself. Borrow or buy an adjustable reamer. Thats what I have done...loads of times. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bornfree Posted May 22, 2014 Report Share Posted May 22, 2014 3/8s is a good compromise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photon Posted May 23, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 Thanks chaps! Will pattern it and go from there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Poon Posted May 23, 2014 Report Share Posted May 23, 2014 My remington 870 Wingmaster was full choke but I've opened it up to 3/8s, seems to do the job fine at clays. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicykillgaz Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I'd just keep practicing with full choke, I've given up worrying too much about chokes now as unless your a good shot you probably won't notice a massive difference other than a bit of recoil. I guess full and cylinder are noticeable but 1/4,1/2 & 3/4 I don't notice. I think it's just a mental thing for me. Generally I shoot equally bad with all chokes but feel better about missing with 1/2 for roosting or 1/4 for over decoys. If your sure you want to though I'd go to 1/2 it's plenty tight enough for most stuff but leaves room to go further if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Personally if go to 3/8 it seems to throw a fantastic pattern in most 12 bores and just some how works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photon Posted May 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I'd just keep practicing with full choke, I've given up worrying too much about chokes now as unless your a good shot you probably won't notice a massive difference other than a bit of recoil. I guess full and cylinder are noticeable but 1/4,1/2 & 3/4 I don't notice. I think it's just a mental thing for me. Generally I shoot equally bad with all chokes but feel better about missing with 1/2 for roosting or 1/4 for over decoys. If your sure you want to though I'd go to 1/2 it's plenty tight enough for most stuff but leaves room to go further if needed. Good point! It's not my usual go to gun and i probably have not given it enough time and practice to use it without thinking. so a trip to the clay ground is in order Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
retromlc Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 interestingly(for me) i shot a round doing my usual swapping chokes for each stand.then out of interest I shot the same round with 3/4 and extra full (Fabarm) and i shot 2 better?does it make a difference,clearly not on that day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Do it yourself. Borrow or buy an adjustable reamer. Thats what I have done...loads of times. U. Do you do this through the barrel or from the end Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 Do you do this through the barrel or from the end Deershooter The barrels I have done are from the muzzle. The reamer if adjusted a very little at a time follows the existing bore. All done by hand. I rotate the gun, I rotate and turn the tool too. This way I avoid and bias. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 (edited) The barrels I have done are from the muzzle. The reamer if adjusted a very little at a time follows the existing bore. All done by hand. I rotate the gun, I rotate and turn the tool too. This way I avoid and bias. U. By removing choke from the muzzle you are putting reverse choke on the gun choke means a restriction ie bore size .729 with 1/4 choke the end of the barrel will be ..719 The only way to correctly remove any amount of choke is by having a long handle for the reamer and machineing from the breach end of the barrels otherwise the taper is all wrong . You would be machining a retro choke where the barrel was thick- thin - thick like gamba did 35 years ago Deershooter Edited May 24, 2014 by deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I was always taught to work from the breach end to muzzles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Will Poon Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 (edited) I've had 2 guns that's been opened up (choke) always from the muzzle, I think ! Edited May 24, 2014 by Willpoon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted May 24, 2014 Report Share Posted May 24, 2014 I've had 2 guns that's been opened up (choke) always from the muzzle, I think ! Think about it it's the wrong way choke gets smaller not larger Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bicykillgaz Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 (edited) Think about it it's the wrong way choke gets smaller not larger Deershooter I'm no engineer but I would have assumed you went from breech to muzzle. Is there maybe different styles of reamers? What sort of money would you be looking at to have this done or buy the tool to do it? When my friend gives up shooting he's going to gift me a lovely little viceroy 12g sxs with 25" barrels but it's choked full&full I'd love to open it to 1/2&1/2 if it's cheap or easy to do. Edited May 25, 2014 by bicykillgaz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 By removing choke from the muzzle you are putting reverse choke on the gun choke means a restriction ie bore size .729 with 1/4 choke the end of the barrel will be ..719 The only way to correctly remove any amount of choke is by having a long handle for the reamer and machineing from the breach end of the barrels otherwise the taper is all wrong . You would be machining a retro choke where the barrel was thick- thin - thick like gamba did 35 years ago Deershooter I think you are confused! A shotgun barrel is cylinder, were for hundreds of years. Then one day some engineers motioned that if near the muzzle you constrict the bore a little it will tighten the pattern of shot. So you have a chamber, slightly tapered, the barrel, cylinder in shape and then some more taper to a lesser cylinder than the barrel cylinder, often around 2" in length. DO NOT MISTAKE ADJUSTABLE REAMER WITH TAPERED REAMER! Go from what ever end you want. My choking work is from the front and results in no reverse tapering and always achieves the desired effect. If you yourself have done this kind of work please relate your experiences. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 As I said above I was always taught and always do work from the chamber end removing small amounts each pass then polish out the last tiny bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 like gamba did 35 years ago Deershooter A hundred years ago it was known as a recess choke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoggysreels Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 If the reamer is a parallel type, you get the same diameter no matter which end you start Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 A hundred years ago it was known as a recess choke. Here is my mandril I made to recess choke a double sxs muzzleloader. It is adjustable and I got 1/4 and 1/2 patterns from the gun after the recessing. U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 As I said above I was always taught and always do work from the chamber end removing small amounts each pass then polish out the last tiny bits. All my work is the same with machining from the breach end the reamer has a pilot to follow the bore and keep things concentric Underdog you seem to be at the blacksmith end of gun smithing that mandrill looks like the slot was made with an angle grinder Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 The only way to correctly remove any amount of choke is by having a long handle for the reamer and machineing from the breach end of the barrels otherwise the taper is all wrong . You would be machining a retro choke where the barrel was thick- thin - thick like gamba did 35 years ago Deershooter Interesting thread. Because I genuinely don't understand the above, are you talking about a conventional choke profile or something else? Just as an aside, I was under the impression that adjustable reamers were now considered obsolete - great care was necessary to ensure that when adjusting they remained parallel. Weren't blacksmiths the original gunsmiths? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Underdog Posted May 25, 2014 Report Share Posted May 25, 2014 Interesting thread. Because I genuinely don't understand the above, are you talking about a conventional choke profile or something else? Just as an aside, I was under the impression that adjustable reamers were now considered obsolete - great care was necessary to ensure that when adjusting they remained parallel. Weren't blacksmiths the original gunsmiths? Plenty available! The cutters slide up a taper in the shank themselves having the same but opposite taper. All my work is the same with machining from the breach end the reamer has a pilot to follow the bore and keep things concentric Underdog you seem to be at the blacksmith end of gun smithing that mandrill looks like the slot was made with an angle grinder Deershooter It was cut with a grinder and it gets worse! The cutter is a ground small file! If blacksmithing is no longer considered respectable that's a shame. When we lose our imagination and rely totally on our wallet I think we have lost something special. So do you do you own choke work then? U. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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