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20 bore home load crimps


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The hole in the middle suggests you need a little more pre-crimp to add more plastic into the crimp folds if you can and the crown of the crimp wants to be no more than 1.5mm above the centre because too deep a crimp will raise pressures. The squarish edges like a 50p piece suggest you need a little adjustment on the final crimp station or a rolled turn over to finish them so they feed easily.

 

That said they're a very good start and better than my first ones. The aim now is to make them even better, well done :good:

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Are you using new Fiocchi shells? and a Mec?

 

The new hulls I have are not shived, but have a slight flare on the mouth to aid putting the wad in. This is what stops the petals coming together and leaving a hole. I think you have the final crimp pretty much spot on. If you close it up any more, you may find the petals swirling. Try loading a used factory shell and you will see the difference between the two. Unfortunately, reloading shells that have had fibre through them won't then fit in the barrel due to the case swell. You will also find the cases stretch, so if you do try the above, you will get petal swirl.

 

If you want to be rid of the hole, take a modelling knife to the case and just trim off the flare. .75mm will do it. Find a bit of suitable pipe to use as case trimmer length guide. I found an old gazebo pole in the shed that was the perfect diameter. Then try it and adjust the final crimp down a very slight amount to account for the loss.

Edited by turbo33
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Hi turbo33 the cases i have are not flared i checked that.is it worth altering crimp start last time i tride small ajustment i up set the lot.is it worth the trouble

 

It depends how much of a perfectionist you are, it can become addictive :lol: I don't think its the crimp start, as I have found you need very little crimp start. Have you a brass cutter for your first stage crimp? If your loader is a Mec, its a pain to get as close as you are. You could try just adjusting the cam VERY slightly to roll the edge in a bit more, but not the plunger. If you overdo it, you will get swirl. You may also find the crimps will dip slightly. As others have said above, if you want to do it, a Gaep no1 will tidy the top edge, round out the hexing and probably, just push the petals together that little bit.

I am making up some this afternoon. If I can, will take some pics and post back on here so you can see the difference.

Edited by turbo33
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As promised, few pics of some 20g. Some are super macro, so all the faults can be seen in real detail :lol:

 

This is how much I pre crimp. Note the tips of the petals with the slight flare. This prevents them closing completely, see later pic.

 

P8300348_zps974f6dfe.jpg

 

This is a "Finished" off the Mec . You can see how the "flare" on the case is now preventing the petals closing completely.

 

P8300354_zps7808ca64.jpg

 

Here is a side view of a finished shell (left) alongside a factory Gambore shell (new not reloaded)

 

P8300358_zps4683b3e3.jpg

 

Finished shells, after a quick tidy with a Gaep No.1. Mine on the left, (light yellow) Gamebore factory on the right. (Orange)

 

P8300361_zpsb239e9e6.jpg

 

Its easy to get carried away, seeking perfection........then when you look at some of the factory shells, it makes you realise.............

........YOU NEED TO GET OUT MORE :lol::lol:

Edited by turbo33
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Hi i have run out of 14mm fiber wads how dangeress would it use 17mm fiber as i have a load of them i now i could cut them down but to much trouble

 

Fibres tend to be less forgiving that plastic wads and putting too large a one in will likely see the plastic shell case crumple at the base because it's overfull. I always use 16mm fibres with obturator for a 28gram load in a 70mm case and these seem ideal for my loads. I'm surprised you're getting away with one as short as 14mm to be honest but if you're getting good shells, and you clearly are they look excellent, I would trim the longer wads to be the same as those. I don't think crushing all the 'give' in a fibre wad or a plastic one come to that is a good thing.

I made a bit of kit to do this which looks like a stretched bottle top with a bolt going thru the top to act as a depth gauge. I drop a wad in and trim it easily with a craft knife and they all end up the same.

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Hi lads two more crimps what do you think.i tried altering crimp start but no good so reset it back just dropped cam down very minute I think they are ok I am using a mec 600 junior.thanks looking

 

They look really good Snowwhite.........now stop adjusting :good:

Edited by turbo33
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Look superb but don't spin them too much if you want to reload the cases again, some of yours were very shiny round the rim, almost melted with friction.

 

Get out and shoot them :good: then tell us all how they shoot.

 

Figgy

Edited by figgy
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Not bad**, but room for improvement.

** Fifty years ago, when the first plastic shells appeared in Britain, (Eley Maximum Waterproof), I would have been thrilled with crimps that looked like yours.

However, loading presses do not give desired crimps in ALL types of plastic cases (hulls...hate that word).

I set my presses just to barely close the cartridge and I back off the final station to do nothing.....

....the finished crimp roll is effected by means of a professional spinner or bobbin...(a Gaep will suffice).

post-8575-0-64373100-1409521327_thumb.jpg

Edited by Floating Chamber
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I find the smaller gauges are harder to get a crimp without the tiny hole in the middle.

Just look at the gamebore factory photos in post #12 for a typical 20ga commercial offering.

 

The gaep spinner does an excellent job making a crimp look like the best of any factory load.

 

Floating chamber very nice looking (I assume by the colour of the case) 12ga crimp which can be the norm for 12ga

 

The quality/appearance of reloaded cartridges has I think improved a lot In recent years with the availability to reloaders of spinners like the gaep for less than £30 these days.

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I find I can effect good crimp and roll finishes across the whole spectrum of bores and calibres; the secret being, the more effective and expensive spark-eroded Italian bobbins.

 

ba57f4a19a1b0e98e6d4ca089893e0d2.jpg

 

DCP_3351.jpg

 

However, the larger one is an old Eley pin bobbin, circa 1870.

Edited by Floating Chamber
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Look superb but don't spin them too much if you want to reload the cases again, some of yours were very shiny round the rim, almost melted with friction.

 

Get out and shoot them :good: then tell us all how they shoot.

 

Figgy

 

They shoot well Figgy. These have fibre through them, so can't be reloaded due to case swell, sadly. Using cases that have fired a plastic wad doesn't create the problem, but are hard to find round here as its fibre everywhere, farms/claygrounds.

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