Markt3815 Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Anyone have a strip down drawing please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 has it detatcherble side locks ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJsDad Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Go to the Anglo Spanish Imports website. They have a spares diagram, which is probably as near as you will get. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 If you need a diagram then don't do it .. AyA No2 is a Holland and Holland pattern gun so the basic design has been around for 100 years. Biggest problem for the DIY man is some nasty strong springs that can cause you damage if not handled correctly . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnfromUK Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 The locks are hand detachable on No 2. To remove the locks is easy. To strip the locks you will need a spring compressor. If you think you will need instructions, don't start. Those springs are strong - and damage/lost parts can easily occur if you remove the bridle without first cramping the spring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markt3815 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 (edited) Was wanting to remove the main bite bar in order to build up faces to rectify cocking lever over to left of centre , just wondered how to remove Edited September 9, 2014 by Markt3815 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted September 8, 2014 Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Have searched the Internet and you tube? Remove the locks and stock and have a look, it might be easy to see how you need to remove the bits to build up. You can clean and lube the side locks while you have them out, just don't take them apart. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markt3815 Posted September 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 8, 2014 Cheers figgy I've searched allover but can't find any bumf on the bit I need , sidelocks are easy to remove and clean just don't take em apart .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewsher500 Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I have a no.2 in bits as we speak no intention of stripping locks though all fairly straight froward to remove furniture from metal and get to most component parts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 If the lever is going past centre when the barrel is off the action then it is more than just the bites worn . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markt3815 Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 If the lever is going past centre when the barrel is off the action then it is more than just the bites worn . Yes gunman I took it to a gun smith my options were knock the bites on the barrel up £20 or strip the gun weld up the bite bar reshape for a better lantern option but was £150 so was going to do it myself .. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) If he suggested knocking up the bites even for £20 I would have walked out of the shop at speed . No professional would or should put that forward as a solution. I would have thought that to strip the gun either weld up and recut the bite or to build up the bolt [ AyA's usually don't have much lead on the bolt] and to sort out then problem of the lever going past centre should cost no more than £75/£80 plus VAT . That is of course assuming that the bites are worn so the do not bear correctly . If it is just a matter of the lever going past centre then thats another matter that has nothing to do with the bite at all. You need a better gunsmith . Edited September 9, 2014 by Gunman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markt3815 Posted September 9, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Any suggestions I'm around southyorkshire cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Sorry no ,don't know any one I would really recommend down there . I'll ask a couple of folk if they can suggest anyone . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnfromUK Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 I'm 99% sure that No 2 AyAs have replaceable joint pins. In my experience, usually one of the first things to wear is the joint pin. A good gunsmith will be able to tell you. If a 'gunsmith' suggested to me 'knocking the bites up' I wouldn't be returning. Its a bad bodge, and to suggest it indicates someone who I wouldn't want to do any business with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJsDad Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 The hinge pin on the AYA No 2, and most other AYA`s, is replaceable by removing the 2 discs at the front end of the bar. With the cocking dogs removed, the hinge pin can be driven out and after reaming slightly over size, the new hinge pin is turned to provide a transition fit and then driven in. This pulls the barrels back against the standing breech. The rear of the barrels then need smoking with lamp black and carefully fitting until the gun closes and locks with the top lever fractionally to the right of centre. Unless you really, really know what you are doing; welding up the bites on the lumps is frought with danger and wont pull the barrels back against the standing breech. No `proper` Gunsmith as Gunman has stated would entertain swaging the lumps. Get it done properly or you are going to end up with an old dog, that no-one will touch with a barge pole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aris Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 (edited) Check out this series of videos Edited September 9, 2014 by aris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bewsher500 Posted September 9, 2014 Report Share Posted September 9, 2014 Is the pin tapered and if so which way is it driven out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Burrells of Bedale are good, in North Yorkshire though. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlesP Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Whatever you do, no matter how confident, no matter how battered your gun, no matter how short of cash you may be... ...Please please please don't scrunch it up in a vice and start beating it about with a hammer like the bewildered old gentleman in that appalling video. Far far better that you find a competent gunsmith and let him do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JJsDad Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 (edited) No the hinge pin is not tapered. If the wear is minimal rotating the pin through 180 degee`s will sometimes cure the problem; but a more permanent repair is a new pin. You also need to choose the material carefully. To soft and it will wear quickly, to hard (brittle) and it could crack or worse shatter when the gun fires. If you havent got a lathe and adjustable reamers, leave it to a Gunsmith. Without wishing to cause any offence; if you need a drawing / diagram to understand how to get the gun apart, this job is not for you. Edited September 10, 2014 by JJsDad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 The Midway video with Jack Rowe and one of him "knocking " up a bite is disgraceful. Actually I had to stop watching as my I do not like horror movies . May be the sort of thing done in the distant past but should not be considered now . Please bear in mind these tapes are for Americans who know no better . Please also bear in mind the Mr Rowe is a stocker from Birmingham but to our American cousins that means he knows every thing about every thing . I have to say that unfortunately Mr Rowe is long past his sell by date . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 I had a similar problem of over run on the top lever on an AyA and it was none of the above. The problem is finding a competent smith. No one advertises as an incompetent bodger. Is the top lever a bit loose in it’s travel? A picture of the position of the top lever in the gun shut would be helpful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gunman Posted September 10, 2014 Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 Here lies the problem . A customer came to see me with his gun that he told me had already been to a "gunsmiths " but it still did nor work correctly . As he did not live far away from me I asked why he hadn't brought it to me first ? He charges less than you do was the answer . So he actually ended up paying the other bill and then mine . As it was the other "gunsmith" had not only failed to correct the fault he had made it worse . As you say no one advertises as an "incompetent bodger" but there are a lot around . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Markt3815 Posted September 11, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 11, 2014 Stripped the gun last night very simple in fact , problem is the main top lever shaft where it meshes with the bite bar at the underside of the action is worn where it rests against the body in the centre position if this makes sense , so will locate one of theses if I can , in reply to other questions there's no play in the main hinge and is tight on its face Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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