steve_b_wales Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Not dissimilar to the ones I use, it'll be fine. I pay about a tenner from China so not a bad price for UK next day delivery. My only problem is the backlight is too bright. I'm going to disassemble one and see if it can be lowered. I had that problem when I used to own a NiteSite. I have some coloured filter somewhere, and will cut some to fit the screen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Not dissimilar to the ones I use, it'll be fine. I pay about a tenner from China so not a bad price for UK next day delivery. My only problem is the backlight is too bright. I'm going to disassemble one and see if it can be lowered. You should be able to turn it down through setting or even use the settings on the E700 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marki Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 You should be able to turn it down through setting or even use the settings on the E700 I'd be interested in knowing what screens you were using. I've not found any that have backlight adjustment. It's the only weakness with the ones I've built so adjustability would be a massive bonus. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
digit Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I'd be interested in knowing what screens you were using. I've not found any that have backlight adjustment. It's the only weakness with the ones I've built so adjustability would be a massive bonus. You turn the brightness down on the screen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 I'd be interested in knowing what screens you were using. I've not found any that have backlight adjustment. It's the only weakness with the ones I've built so adjustability would be a massive bonus. All the ones ive used have brightness/contrast setting & if your still getting face glare just cover the with screen Red or Green film (can be picked up in most craft shops or the Bay) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marki Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Brightness and contrast is not backlight. I'll take one apart and have a look. Should be easy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted January 10, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Sorry Marki, are you talking about adjusting the brightness of the screen ? I've never seen a backlight adjustment on any of the 4 or 5" monitors I've used. I normally drop the brightness by the brightness & contrast. Might be worth dropping Dave-G a PM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marki Posted January 10, 2016 Report Share Posted January 10, 2016 Yes mate, probably never explained myself properly. I'm fairly comfortable messing about. Most of these screens are designed to be used in daylight so the backlight is quite bright. It'll be interesting to see what's in there, helps pass the time ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave-G Posted January 11, 2016 Report Share Posted January 11, 2016 TBH I'm not quite sure if the adjustable light intensity is backlight or not, I rather thought it was but some of the last posts now throw doubt on that. I can ask our boffins on the NVF though. What I do see is that just like smart phones, you can, and often need to, turn up the screen brightness in daylight or turn it down at night to control glare. At minimal light settings there is still room for further dimming to reduce the amount of screen light with a gel filter if you feel it affects your natural night eye development but I have never seen quarry spook just by turning on the NV..... unless the IR comes on with it: Some users prefer lots of IR rather than a better minimum light performing camera - which produces a brighter image. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
steve_b_wales Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 I've made myself a NV spotter, with help and advice off Davyo, (thanks mate) and I'm pleased with the result. I have a x2 telephoto lens that I would like to fit at the front to increase the range. I've checked it by holding it in front of the camera lens and it works well. But I need a piece of 50mm plastic or metal tube to place between the two lens. I only need a 25mm -20mm length. Does anyone know where I could get some from? Steve. Now sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted January 17, 2016 Report Share Posted January 17, 2016 (edited) I've made myself a NV spotter, with help and advice off Davyo, (thanks mate) and I'm pleased with the result. I have a x2 telephoto lens that I would like to fit at the front to increase the range. I've checked it by holding it in front of the camera lens and it works well. But I need a piece of 50mm plastic or metal tube to place between the two lens. I only need a 25mm -20mm length. Does anyone know where I could get some from? Steve. Now sorted. Toolstation do 50mm waste pipe,perhaps you could use one of the straight solvent weld connectors ! Just noticed Edited January 17, 2016 by vampire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnin21 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Can anyone tell me the length needed for the 41mn silicone tube, thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted January 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) Tube comes in 100mm & 150mm, but it depends on the distance your eye normally is from the end of the ocular(this is where the E700 will sit now). I use 40mm tube and was having to pay £6/7 for a 100mm length. But then I built a spotter and an add on for a guy who manages a dairy and he said he could get me some. He brought round six 1mtr lengths, good tip is if the E700 sits in the tube and the SCREWFIX housing doesn't sit up tight against the ocular (usually space of 1in to 1 1/2inches just push some 40mm waste pipe(cut to suite) in the tube till it buts up with the SCREWFIX. This way when you shove the unit on it buts up nicely against the ocular and stops any flex in the pipe. Dave Edited January 31, 2016 by Davyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnin21 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Ok dave thanks, do you glue the camera in to the end cap or will it just sit in there on its own also have you go a wireing diagram of the way the 186 batterys and tge switch in the end cap goes together. Thanks Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 The E700 just sits tight into the Srewfix fitting no need for glue.The switch i did on the end cap was a 1 off but more fiddle than its worth.Stick with putting the switch on the project box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redgum Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 (edited) Hi Davyo, I have the same problem as you in regard to age related( hate the optician using this term ) eyesight problems ie reading glasses. I have yet to have confidence to build my on nv but use the NS200 with Nm800 to give it a bit of a boost. Going out and forgetting the glasses, or just stopping to remember to slip em on to shoot is a real pain and have been following your posts with interest. Just about to sell the ns200 and then I saw this on ebay, DIOPTER CORRECTION LENS for LCDVF Viewfinder Kinotehnik Close-Up LCCDVF3CLENS on ebay. The lenses should fit the eye piece you have. Edited February 2, 2016 by Redgum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Thats it mate,i bought a set and just fiddled till i found one that was just like wearing my readers.I was going to ask my optician if he could cut me a lens to my prescription,but then stopped shooting.Its all trial and error as a lens like a 2.8 will show the cross hairs perfect,but magnifies the pixelation and cause a grainy picture.I cracked it in the end but cant for the life of me remember the lense.The picture quality was better than my Pulsar N750a and the yukon XT.Shocking considering the N750a was nearly £1300 and the XT £400 and the addon was only about £120 with the viewfinder and diopter. Edited February 2, 2016 by Davyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dunnin21 Posted February 2, 2016 Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 The E700 just sits tight into the Srewfix fitting no need for glue.The switch i did on the end cap was a 1 off but more fiddle than its worth.Stick with putting the switch on the project box. Thanks again, another quick one. Will i have to pop the 18650 battery out of the holder each time to charge and the on the e700 there is a cap on end on threads do i just leave th I s in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted February 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2016 2xbatteies in the project box.I always charge before leaving and carry a pair of spares(never needed them).But a sub zero night can drain batteries a lot quicker.The screw cap stays in place but allows you access to the E700 if you want to play with the ISO settings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roadkill Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Having just bought a rifle i would like to go down the NV road, the scope i have with the rifle is a Nikko Sterling 3-9x50, is this up to the job or will i need another scope? I might as well get it right from the beginning jamie Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
K-B-T Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 People recommend a scope with either front or side parallax adjustment, there are quite a few reasonably priced scopes out there suitable for the job, do a search and you should come up with a few recomendations Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted February 3, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 (edited) Having just bought a rifle i would like to go down the NV road, the scope i have with the rifle is a Nikko Sterling 3-9x50, is this up to the job or will i need another scope? I might as well get it right from the beginning jamie If front or side parallax should be fine. People recommend a scope with either front or side parallax adjustment, there are quite a few reasonably priced scopes out there suitable for the job, do a search and you should come up with a few recomendations Hi mate, Will PM you farmers number later so you can call him direct when ever you fancy going ferreting. Dave Edited February 3, 2016 by Davyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomottewell Posted September 24, 2016 Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 Hello. New to this and i've built a setup like daves. But the picture quality isnt as crisp as i thought it would be. What could be the cause of this? Thanks Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davyo Posted September 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 (edited) You need to concentate on focusing on the cross hairs.If you hold the NV unit in your had the screen should not be clear(remember you are not building a spotter) for example if your looking up the garden.The idea is to get a crisp clear image at the crosshair.When the NV unit is fitted to the scope the range becomes clear unsing the Parallax adjustment. This is one of the reasons i build only for locals as i like to have the scope here to fine tune the build. However spotter & NV driving systems are the other eay round.Can i ask are you adjusting any ISO settings on the E700 (which i hope your using) Edited September 24, 2016 by Davyo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tomottewell Posted September 24, 2016 Report Share Posted September 24, 2016 Thanks. I've been using the scope ajustment to bring the cross hairs in. How else do you do it? Moveing the camera closer to the scope? What are iso settings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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