DanWalker Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Hi all, Looking for a bit of advice before I plunge into another, potentially ill-advised, time consuming project. As the title says I want your opinion on whether to persevere with these barrels or whether Im barking up the wrong tree. These barrels come from a great big old wildfowler 12 bore boxlock but unfortunately at some point in the past they have been stored damp and with the fore end on - the pitting is pretty severe to my eyes and at about the worst place. On the positive side the barrels are pretty thick so there might be enough meat to save them. What are the options with external pitting (if any)? I know I need to get them to a gunsmith for proper assessment but that means sending them away as there are none locally (that I know of) so Im just hoping to avoid wasting money on a dead-end project if possible. Barrels are a bit too safety critical for me to start bodging so any advice gratefully received! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
happy.plinker Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Any way that you can make a depth gauge with a needle and straight edge do get a rough idea of pitting depth,might give you a rough idea,a gunsmith might tell you if its a goer or not,he might just ask for £10 or £20. A nice old gun might be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Looks like it would make great wall hanger! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 It would not cost a lot to post them, they dont need to be RFD. What does the rest of the gun look like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanWalker Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thanks for the replies. happy.plinker, good call - I'll try that at the weekend and see what I can learn. TIGHTCHOKE - My first thoughts when I wirebrushed the crud off the barrels but I'd have to get it deactivated to hang on the wall. CBA johnphillip - Rest of the gun is salvageable, the woodwork is currently being de-oiled and, other than a split in the toe of the butt and another in the head, it is in good condition. Checkering is good, doesn't need redoing. Fore end has a fixable split in the nose but pretty good checkering. Action is built like the proverbial and the metal work is in good condition - you could build a .470 Nitro Express Double on the action no worries. My only worry is the state of the barrels and whether to spend anything on trying to repair them or whether to fix everything else up for practice and save the money from the barrels for another project. It's a great looking gun and I'd love to shoot it but I'm not attached to it - if it's goosed, it's goosed. I'm not going to go pouring money into bottomless pit(s). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) you might be surprised .........ive had a few blackpowder shotguns....and they have looked like right dogs before i and others worked on them......as said before by others...take the barrells to a gunsmith, and get the barrels measured in and out...then they will determin whether or not after skimming out , there is enough meat to provide a conditional proof....if it is a blackpowder proof...they will stamp on the barrells the number of grains of powder for the proof......its not an expensive procedure...........(not the checking anyway) my mate was given a dodgy wall hanger, similar to yours and ended up with a beautiful piece, and it was safe in proof for modern nitro cartridges..... Edited May 12, 2015 by ditchman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanWalker Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Cheers ditchman - my only problem is that I am in the Isle of Man so have no local gunsmith. It'll be a send away job to have them checked. Thinking I'll be putting them in the post soon. The barrels are 28 inches and are currently nitro proofed for 1 1/4 oz, 2 3/4in chambers under the 1896-1904 rules. They weigh over 3 1/2 pounds so there's plenty of meat somewhere in them - it's just whether it is in the right place! Any recommendations on who to send them to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Dan if you have to send them contact Wabbitbosher / Mick Vokes on here! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonwolf444 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 (edited) Since its proofed under those early proofing rules here is my thoughts. 28 inches on such a heavy set of barrels suggests that the barrels have been shortened ( to me ) assuming this work was done professionally we might also assume that in its life there has possibly been other work done the the barrels. The second thing is that they may be 2 3/4 proofed but they are so under very early proof rules, therefore it is likely that many modern 2 3/4 loads could exceed the pressures of this earlier proof marking. So if i were you i would chose a load that operates well within the proof rating. Hull Imperial Game are good had hitting game cartridges loaded for light english guns from 24grams to 30 grams, if i were you i would source a slab of the 26 or 28 gram loadings in 2 1/2 inch cases and enjoy the gun as it is. There is no exact science saying this depth of pitting is fine and this is not. The pitting is not in a great location but i have seen more and worse.( see picture below ) If you take it to a gunsmith who doesn't know you from jack and doesn't know that your not going to try and shove some 3 1/2inch extra magnum steel into it, then the gunsmith is likely to say don't shoot it; as far as i am concerned no gunsmith can guarantee any set of barrels new or old and to do so is just setting yourself up for lawsuits. As for options micro tig and laser welding can be used to fill the pits, i have seen this work done but its more a job of hiding the damage and preventing further rusting rather than adding any strength. I should have thought this would be really expensive and would suggest the best option is to enjoy the gun as it is, and sensibly using an appropriate low pressure load. As for striking the pitting out - don't your also going to be removing metal from around the pits and further weakening the barrels. The majority of barrel bow ups are due to user error not barrels. - improperly and overloaded cartridges and blocked barrels. Edited May 12, 2015 by demonwolf444 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanWalker Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Thanks for the replies guys, plenty of good stuff here. TIGHTCHOKE - does Wabbitbosher work on guns? Demonwolf - The barrels are original length as far as I can tell as the muzzles touch and there's close to full choke in both. It weighs 8 1/2 pounds all up so light English game gun it ain't - but as I exclusively shoot Hull Imperial Game 28s that's what I'll be feeding it if I ever get to shoot with it. I had a look at micro welding but as you say it seems to me it's just window dressing really - a way to cover up the corrosion and to prevent more occurring but it's not going to make the gun any safer. I think I'll be sending it away for a second opinion and then see what the options are. Thanks everyone for replying - feeling like there may be light at the end of the tunnel now. Any suggestions on where to send it gratefully received - I've not got much to go on other than personal recommendations. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 TIGHTCHOKE - does Wabbitbosher work on guns? Oh yes, he brings stuff back to life and deactivates others and he is very reasonable on price too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 this pigeonwatch is good aint it.......................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanWalker Posted May 12, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 this pigeonwatch is good aint it.......................... Excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 Go and see a barrel man we all have a specialities a good barrel man will give the best advice and likely cheapest good repair without bodges. I suspect they can be brought back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul223 Posted May 12, 2015 Report Share Posted May 12, 2015 What he ^^^^ said Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanWalker Posted May 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Go and see a barrel man we all have a specialities a good barrel man will give the best advice and likely cheapest good repair without bodges. I suspect they can be brought back. Easier said than done when you live in the Isle of Man! - If you can recommend anyone to send them to I'd be grateful Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Easier said than done when you live in the Isle of Man! - If you can recommend anyone to send them to I'd be grateful Send me a PM with some details on what it's about I'll reply with some helpful contacts. WW Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TIGHTCHOKE Posted May 13, 2015 Report Share Posted May 13, 2015 Dan I PMd you yesterday with Wabbitboshers number! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanWalker Posted May 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2015 Hi all, sorry for the lack of updates. I've decided to take the plunge and try and clean the barrels up a bit myself before sending them off. I figure I've got nothing to lose as I bought the gun as a wreck to practice restoration on and I may as well see if I can dress the worst of the damage myself. Out comes the wet and dry and honerite #4. Whatever happens If I ever want to shoot them again I'll want to reproof them for my peace of mind so here goes nothing. Thanks to everyone for the replies so far. @TIGHTCHOKE, thanks for the PM - received and understood but I'm going to have a bit of a 'bosh' at them myself. I'll bear the recommendation mind for the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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