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Do the painted opinel swell up less?


ElvisThePelvis
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Tip some oil down the hinge and work the blade back and forth untill it's worked into the wood. I also stress the hinge slightly to loosen it a bit by trying to bend the blade out sideways. It's worked a treat on mine for last seven years.

 

One other thing I done was to file a concave in the wood to allow a better grip on the nail groove.

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Tip some oil down the hinge and work the blade back and forth untill it's worked into the wood. I also stress the hinge slightly to loosen it a bit by trying to bend the blade out sideways. It's worked a treat on mine for last seven years.

One other thing I done was to file a concave in the wood to allow a better grip on the nail groove.

Thanks, that's a really good idea.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Tip some oil down the hinge and work the blade back and forth untill it's worked into the wood. I also stress the hinge slightly to loosen it a bit by trying to bend the blade out sideways. It's worked a treat on mine for last seven years.

One other thing I done was to file a concave in the wood to allow a better grip on the nail groove.

I would go with that advice. Timber can absorb moisture up to 100x faster through the end grain than the face so ... better just to increase the clearance than fight a potentially losing battle. Only way to stop the moisture getting in is to dip the timber in glycol, as on the old Parker Hale stocks made by Sile. Not worth the trouble when figgy presents such a simple solution.

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I would go with that advice. Timber can absorb moisture up to 100x faster through the end grain than the face so ... better just to increase the clearance than fight a potentially losing battle. Only way to stop the moisture getting in is to dip the timber in glycol, as on the old Parker Hale stocks made by Sile. Not worth the trouble when figgy presents such a simple solution.

Excellent, thanks, yes this is what I have done and it works perfectly, sorry should have updated the thread.

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