Leatherwork

[Dunkield]

Following from the knife build here I bought a cheap sheath of eBay but it was far too bulky.

As I had a bit of leather left over from a previous build and a plastic liner I thought I would have a more serious attempt at making a sheath.

It's always been the bit I find most challenging, but having been given a sort of Acme leather sowing kit for Christmas I was running out of excuses.

I can see already I didn't pull the thread consistently tightly so some it lays flat in some places but not in others.

Although I am happy enough with the way it came out I would like to hear any tips and tricks from the more experienced knife makers on here.

[CaptainBeaky]

That's pretty good for a first go 

Some suggestions:

Get a stitching pony/clamp - this holds the work so you have both hands free, and (I find) makes out ready to keep the tension constant.

Use an edge groover to set your stitch line - this cuts a groove parallel to the edge that the stitches lie in, hence protecting the thread. It also makes the stitch line tidier.

Practise! Did you use saddle stitch, knotting at each stitch? It looks as if you may not have done your loop through in the same direction each time.

How do you punch stitch holes? Make sure your awl is sharp and polished, and put a piece of thick scrap leather under the work piece when punching holes. Try to keep the spacing consistent. With a diamond awl, turn it so two opposite sides of the diamond are parallel with the stitch line - this makes the stitches lie flatter. I have recently started using a pricking iron for setting space and angle, and it makes things much tidier.

I don't have any pictures to hand to illustrate, but a quick Google should turn up something suitable. The leatherworking.net forums are a good source of information.

Good luck, and beware - it's just as addictive as knife-making... 

[Walker570]

Not bad for a first try. Yes, your right. Your stitching is all over the place. Concentrate on pulling the threads so they interlock within the hole. The belt lopp stitching shows this very clearly where you haven't pulled that through fully. Did you block the leather on the knife itself or a wooden model?   Try blocking the leather either side of the handle a bit more which a) protects it and b) stops it flopping about.

I've had so many knives drop out of friction sheaths, that I now put straps and clips on them all and block the handle up to this strap. I think you might be able to see it on the photo.

Not wishing to be too critical hope my comments help.

I'll put the system I use for making sheaths onto the RBL knife that Old Farrier has purchased in the auction. How I block the sheath to fit the knife.

Do you drill your stitching holes first?  Makes things much easier. 

[Dunkield]

49 minutes ago, CaptainBeaky said:

That's pretty good for a first go 

Some suggestions:

Get a stitching pony/clamp - this holds the work so you have both hands free, and (I find) makes out ready to keep the tension constant.

Use an edge groover to set your stitch line - this cuts a groove parallel to the edge that the stitches lie in, hence protecting the thread. It also makes the stitch line tidier.

Practise! Did you use saddle stitch, knotting at each stitch? It looks as if you may not have done your loop through in the same direction each time.

Saddle stitch I am guessing as it wasn't knotting stitch 

How do you punch stitch holes? No I drilled them, this was little bit of an issue as you can see from the back they didn't all come out inline.

Make sure your awl is sharp and polished, and put a piece of thick scrap leather under the work piece when punching holes. Try to keep the spacing consistent. With a diamond awl, turn it so two opposite sides of the diamond are parallel with the stitch line - this makes the stitches lie flatter. I have recently started using a pricking iron for setting space and angle, and it makes things much tidier. I did have a quick for tools, but went ahead without, I think this is what I need for next time, same applies to the edge groover

I don't have any pictures to hand to illustrate, but a quick Google should turn up something suitable. The leatherworking.net forums are a good source of information.

Good luck, and beware - it's just as addictive as knife-making... 

Thanks, my answers are inline above

55 minutes ago, Walker570 said:

Not bad for a first try. Yes, your right. Your stitching is all over the place. Concentrate on pulling the threads so they interlock within the hole. The belt lopp stitching shows this very clearly where you haven't pulled that through fully. Did you block the leather on the knife itself or a wooden model?   Try blocking the leather either side of the handle a bit more which a) protects it and b) stops it flopping about.

Excuse my ignorance, what is blocking?

[CaptainBeaky]

Saddle stitch *is* a knotted stitch 

A quick look reveals:

Tutorial by Ian Atkinson

 

[Walker570]

Blocking is where you either use the knife or whatver you are making the leather item for...we used to block our pistol holsters. You can either wrap the item in a plastic bag or as I do, make a wooden copy.  That is the 'male' part. I then make a recessed part which that will fit in taking into account the thickness of the leather. Soak the leather in water, I also put just a drop of washing up liquid as this seems to allow the leather to flow better. Then lay the leather on top of the female former with the smooth side down and then the male piece on top. Then firmly clamp the two parts together forcing the leather into the shape you have made.  Leave it a few days to dry and when you take it apart you will have a perfect replica of the item you wish to put in.  Difficult to explain in words and I will do a full run down in pictures with the RBL knife. The leather will have set rigid and as long as you have remembered to make the piece big enough to leave an edge for stitching, you can then run around this with a small drill and drill your stitching holes.  The picture above is blocked only on the backside the front is flat. Sometimes you can block half and half as in the photo and this phot also shows why I now put a drop of soap in the water. You can see where the leather was 'ragged' as it was forced round the curve. This is an old sheath, seen a lot of use.

Edited January 25, 2018 by Walker570

[Walker570]

I started with one of those Easy Awls and yes they do the job, but I now use two needles and as the Capt says make or acquire a stitching vice. I use a rotary stitch marker to lay out where I need to drill the holes and with one side still in the blocking former and the other lined up accurately i drive three or four pins through the marked holes to secure everyhting whilst I drill the holes.  I have never used the saddle stitch, but it is worth learning.  I have been making sheaths now for about 30yrs and have not had one come unstitched.  I go round the stitching and rub wax into the stitch holes from both sides filling them up as best I can to keep water out.   We all have our ways of achieving the same ends.  As said it can get addictive.

[la bala]

More very interesting stuff, you have to hand it to PW members, the knowledgable people dont mind sharing that knowledge with people that wish to have a go.

[CaptainBeaky]

That's interesting - you do things in the opposite order to me!

I make a paper/card pattern to go around the knife, leaving my seam allowance, then transfer this into the leather and cut it. Make and glue the welt into the edge, then fold and glue the edges together (after making the loop!).

Clean the welt edge on a drum sander, then cut the stitch groove, mark and punch the holes.

Complete the stitching, using waxed thread (helps lock the twists together, and coincidentally makes it much easier to thread the needle!).

Wrap the greased knife in cling film. Immerse the sheath in lukewarm water until slightly soft, then ease the knife in. Using a bone folder, smooth the leather over the knife, including making any snaps required.

Allow to dry, removing the knife when amongst dry. Clean the knife, stain/polish the sheath.

I always punch holes rather than drill - a punch moves the majority of the fibres it of the way, whereas a drill cuts them, weakening the leather.

Edited January 25, 2018 by CaptainBeaky

[Fatcatsplat]

Get the leather moist and do a template and use pound shop clips to hold it in place while it dries to form. Allow yourself more of an edge than you think you need as it's easier to take off then put on.

Use a scribe for your straight lines and bury your stitches in it so they don't sit so proud.

Edge with amaranth gum and burr with either a bit of wood/bone or be a lazy chap like me and run it down a grinder for a flat solid edge.

The bay sells cheap Chinese kits with stamps, awls etc for a tenner or so - They're well worth the money while you're starting out.

I punch holes with the awl as Captain Beaky says - Two taps on a hammer and you have something the needle runs through happily - Takes a bit of time, but well worth it when you're putting everything together. Run your thread through a bit of beeswax first and then beeswax/coconut butter polish afterwards.

 

Tons of youtube footage to help you through - Look for the Redsmith - He's good

 

 

 

[Walker570]

Edge finishing I use the system an old cobbler showed me when finishing newly leathered soles. He had a wooden drum about 1 1/2 wide mounted on a treadle, no electric motors in those days. He would get this motoring add some polish finisher to the drum and then run the leather edge onto the drum moving it around with a bit of pressure. This 'glazed' the edge nicely.

I use a very fine drill  errr 1mm or near as darn. Run at high speed it cuts tidy little holes and with the leather still held in the former with the edges over the sides nothing moves and all holes line up nicely.   As said never had any come loose. 

[Dunkield]

OK so I blocked using the knife, soaked the leather then lightly clamped to edge and then let it dry overnight, it is actually held in there pretty securely

Once that was I marked out and drilled the holes through.

FYI I used a Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl

[bigman]

I burnish my edges with a bit of saliva and a stag antler tip it makes for a nice finish 

[Fatcatsplat]

7 minutes ago, Dunkield said:

FYI I used a Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl

There's yer problem. You need double needles to get it all sexy, neat and tight. They're a bit of a pain to get used to, but once you've cracked it they're quite therapeutic to do! 

[Yellow Bear]

21 minutes ago, Dunkield said:

FYI I used a Speedy Stitcher Sewing Aw

Difficult to get an even finish with this tool although it has its uses - 2 needles are better - a good source for leatherwork tools and findings is the Identity store (they are on line and do attend show, I'm lucky  as I live about 5 miles from their store)

[Fatcatsplat]

14 minutes ago, Yellow Bear said:

Difficult to get an even finish with this tool although it has its uses - 2 needles are better - a good source for leatherwork tools and findings is the Identity store (they are on line and do attend show, I'm lucky  as I live about 5 miles from their store)

They're good people. Bought a load of stuff off them at the Bushcraft Show last year

[Dunkield]

After watching the video above I quite like the idea of one of those hole punches, the double needle method looks pretty straight forward to me.

I had to get Mrs D to get me started with the Speedy Stitcher  it actually looks simpler than that.

[Walker570]

1 hour ago, Dunkield said:

OK so I blocked using the knife, soaked the leather then lightly clamped to edge and then let it dry overnight, it is actually held in there pretty securely

Once that was I marked out and drilled the holes through.

FYI I used a Speedy Stitcher Sewing Awl

Yep that'll work. We used to do that with the revolvers wrapped in cling film and well sprayed with WD before wrapping. The off the shelf holsters were pretty cheap but with a bit of effort they could be made to work.    My system just makes the corners etc that bit tighter and as said once dry the edges lay over the side and make it easy to do the holes.  Until I went to the two needles i thought the speedy awl was the dogs doo dahs but the needles in my view are much faster and you can get the nice even finish much easier.  The needles work best with a vice...almost essential. 

[Yellow Bear]

1 hour ago, Walker570 said:

We used to do that with the revolvers wrapped in cling film and well sprayed with WD before wrapping

I found that making a template round the gun with a heavy cloth pulled tight with large stitching worked well.  This allowed the holster to be cut, tooled, suede lined, and stitched before blocking (you had to be careful of any tooling when blocking so as not to loose it)

[Walker570]

Yes, I do any decoration after blocking or during. The deer you see on some of my sheaths is a bronze badge which I put in the former where I need it to be embossed, then when I apply the pressure it gets imprinted in the sheath.   The stamps can be applied by leaving the wooden model of the knife in the sheath once it has dried.

We didn't go in for fancy finishes on our holsters in the unit.  In fact after visiting California in '78 as a guest of an LA Deputy, I came back with a real nice holster for my Model 10 which we used back then.