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Weather Treatment For Wood


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Some advice, please, Guys. 

I have just bought a garden bench seat which is flat pack and has already been pressure treated. Before it arrives in a couple of days could anyone kindly advise me on a quality brush on treatment which I would use annually - starting now before assembly - which hopefully will provide another layer of protection.

MTIA

 

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51 minutes ago, ditchman said:

get some decent marine varnish....and cut it back by 75% and slop it on...let it dry and do it again.............

Cheers. I asked because I haven't a clue. However, we have a chandlers so that's sorted but what on earth is, "cut it back by 75%, please?

 

3 minutes ago, old'un said:

Did my shed in this and its still beading water...https://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-water-repellent-seal-clear-5ltr/57474

Now have a Screwfix as well. Thank you.

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1 hour ago, wymberley said:

Cheers. I asked because I haven't a clue. However, we have a chandlers so that's sorted but what on earth is, "cut it back by 75%, please?

 

Now have a Screwfix as well. Thank you.

25% varnish.............75% thinners.................or recommended thinner..ask your chandler

when you varish wood for marine purpose.....you cut it back 75%...then 50%.......25%......then full fat varnish with a sable brush...sanding down between each coat

if you cut it back 75% and put it on really dry wood ...it will dissapear...just suck it right in....slop it on a few times (plus the ends) and the wood will be well protected

use exterior marine varnish as it will have UV additives in it...

you wont need the full fat varnish its a outside bench after all...just stick to cutback and let it soak it and dry between eack coat

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12 hours ago, ditchman said:

25% varnish.............75% thinners.................or recommended thinner..ask your chandler

when you varish wood for marine purpose.....you cut it back 75%...then 50%.......25%......then full fat varnish with a sable brush...sanding down between each coat

if you cut it back 75% and put it on really dry wood ...it will dissapear...just suck it right in....slop it on a few times (plus the ends) and the wood will be well protected

use exterior marine varnish as it will have UV additives in it...

you wont need the full fat varnish its a outside bench after all...just stick to cutback and let it soak it and dry between eack coat

Brilliant! Thank you very much indeed. :thanks:

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1 hour ago, wymberley said:

Brilliant! Thank you very much indeed. :thanks:

this is what you would do when varishing a clinker built sailing boat/rowing boat/waler........and where you have "gaps" in the overlaping planks......you would pour some varish on a flat baking tray...let it alone for a while until it grows a thick skin.....lift the skin off with a wide blade and use it to calk the gaps in the planking....

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22 hours ago, ditchman said:

this is what you would do when varishing a clinker built sailing boat/rowing boat/waler........and where you have "gaps" in the overlaping planks......you would pour some varish on a flat baking tray...let it alone for a while until it grows a thick skin.....lift the skin off with a wide blade and use it to calk the gaps in the planking....

This we did when I had a 28 foot larch on oak clinker built ex lifeboat many years ago except for the caulking bit. When launched we were told, as it had been out of the water for a long time, it would leak like a sieve, but being larch would take up fairly quickly. On launching we had an electric pump on standby which was needed for about two hours and thereafter the boat was completely watertight. Had I known of Ditchie’s caulking method all those years ago, it would have obviated the need of a pump. As they say, every day’s a school day.👍

OB

 

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2 hours ago, Old Boggy said:

This we did when I had a 28 foot larch on oak clinker built ex lifeboat many years ago except for the caulking bit. When launched we were told, as it had been out of the water for a long time, it would leak like a sieve, but being larch would take up fairly quickly. On launching we had an electric pump on standby which was needed for about two hours and thereafter the boat was completely watertight. Had I known of Ditchie’s caulking method all those years ago, it would have obviated the need of a pump. As they say, every day’s a school day.👍

OB

 

i wonder sometimes if the new generation are making headway in this world................there must be so much important information that has been taken to the grave with the past generations....

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59 minutes ago, ditchman said:

i wonder sometimes if the new generation are making headway in this world................there must be so much important information that has been taken to the grave with the past generations....

I do agree. reinvention of the wheel comes to mind. Unlike perhaps the Chinese and maybe some ancient tribes, knowledge handed down through the generations doesn`t appear to always register in today`s society and the same mistakes keep being made.

Anyway, hope that you are keeping well, Simon and keep up with your excellent food photos and recipes. Always good posts.

OB

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4 hours ago, Old Boggy said:

Had I known of Ditchie’s caulking method all those years ago, it would have obviated the need of a pump.

I doubt it very much.

Wooden boats work by swelling and sealing the gaps in the planking.  Various methods; caulking (aka bits of old rope shoved into the larger gaps), lead mixed in, varnish, you name it...have to work with, not instead of, wood doing what it does naturally.  Even 'modern' plywood boats, epoxied to within an inch of their life 'take up' to some extent.

The 'traditional method' was leaving the most junior member of the crew on board with a bellows pump to keep empyting the bilge as it took up.

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1 hour ago, udderlyoffroad said:

I doubt it very much.

Wooden boats work by swelling and sealing the gaps in the planking.  Various methods; caulking (aka bits of old rope shoved into the larger gaps), lead mixed in, varnish, you name it...have to work with, not instead of, wood doing what it does naturally.  Even 'modern' plywood boats, epoxied to within an inch of their life 'take up' to some extent.

The 'traditional method' was leaving the most junior member of the crew on board with a bellows pump to keep empyting the bilge as it took up.

correct........i was referring to complete varnished clinker sail boats and row boats...where the varnish acts as a seal ......so where the lapboards dont meet spot on....this is the way they are calked..

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I must admit the advice we received to let the larch clinkers take up themselves naturally was from an old established boatbuilder, so he obviously knew his stuff and was spot on with his predicted time that the larch would take to swell up and provide a watertight boat.

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