Zeroing .22 LR

[gixer1]

Hey Folks,

 

I am awaiting delivery of my CZ .22 LR 16" barrel, the rifle will have a 3 - 10 x 44 Nite Eye illuminated scope, i was wondering if someone can go through a step by step guide for zeroing the rifle i.e.- distances etc as i would like to be sure i get this right, obviously it will be done in a safe area with closed in background etc but i was more looking for distances and how to use the scope to it's full advantage, do you set the yardage (the adjustment just infront of the butt end of the scope) on the scope at a the distance you are zeroing and then move youre target to a different setting on the yardage and test again?

 

Thanks in advance for any advice given.

 

Regards,

 

Garry.

[markm]

Always shoot a group of 5 shots before moving the scope UDLR. I would suggest although a few will disagree to zero at about 40 yards (steps as long as you are of average size will do). I find it easier to hold over longer shots than under if you zero furtherout.

Edited March 27, 2008 by markm

[pin]

http://www.zeroriflescope.co.uk/

 

That scope, I assume it's a Hawke?

 

The adjustment you mention is to compensate for parallax error ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallax ). What range you zero your rifle at depends on what ammo you will be shooting and at what range you are comfortable shooting out to. Most people with subsonic ammo seem to choose about a 60yd zero to give the best compromise of hold under and over for most general work - very much depends on what you are doing with it. For instance if you are just shooting rats @ 30yds and no more, you'd be better off choosing a 30yd zero - anything between 5-30yds you could aim dead on and kill - with a 60yd zero you'd need to hold under @ 30yds which wouldn't make any sense.

 

One thing to note is that the point of impact will change as you change magnification on that scope. For rabbits I'd pick a magnification, 8x is plenty, and then zero it. If you zoom in your point of impact will have changed (as it will if you zoom out) - most cheap scopes suffer from this.

[gixer1]

My apologies, it certainly is a Hawke scope, I know you have a link attached but i am struggling with my computer and a pop up blocker so could you explain the terminology of Hold over/under, Parallax, UDLR, I have a bit of experience shooting rifles with my father in the past but never really zeroed anything properly other than an air rifle with a rather old scope, I was told by one person to zero the rifle at 50 yards so that when the crosshair is on target centre the round will hit approx 1" high of centre and that this would give accuracy up to 100 yards (assuming calm conditions)

 

The rifle will be used with subsonic round (CCI's or Winchesters hollow point most likely) and will be used for Rabbit's or ground landed crows/Pigeons/Vermin, I will most commonly be firing with the gun rested on it's bi-pod or from a vehicle and I am fairly confident and competent with a rifle (as i have used 30/06's, 243's, 22LR's in the past under supervision) so would like to know what my range would be assuming good conditions, i was under the impression around 100 yards max(?)

 

But i would rather ask around here and get some more opinions.

 

Thanks again for the help.

 

Garry.

Edited March 27, 2008 by gixer1

[dusk2dawn]

http://www.zeroriflescope.co.uk/

 

That scope, I assume it's a Hawke?

 

The adjustment you mention is to compensate for parallax error ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parallax ). What range you zero your rifle at depends on what ammo you will be shooting and at what range you are comfortable shooting out to. Most people with subsonic ammo seem to choose about a 60yd zero to give the best compromise of hold under and over for most general work - very much depends on what you are doing with it. For instance if you are just shooting rats @ 30yds and no more, you'd be better off choosing a 30yd zero - anything between 5-30yds you could aim dead on and kill - with a 60yd zero you'd need to hold under @ 30yds which wouldn't make any sense.

 

One thing to note is that the point of impact will change as you change magnification on that scope. For rabbits I'd pick a magnification, 8x is plenty, and then zero it. If you zoom in your point of impact will have changed (as it will if you zoom out) - most cheap scopes suffer from this.

 

Pin at what range does this change in the point of impact occur? I shoot every week on our 50m club indoor range and sometimes shoot with 6.5x mag to simulate poor light conditions, then zoom it up to 20x to observe results, then I might shoot at 20x or any mag inbetween, I have not noticed any difference in the poi, the scope in question is a Hawke Niteye.

 

Parallax incidently is set at 75yds which gives the clearest target picture.

 

:blink: D2D

[markm]

UDLR - Up Down left or Right to move the POI - Point Of Impact.

 

With a .22 firing subsonics the bullet is dropping very quickly (just fire a tracer and you will see what i am talking about) therefore.

 

Hold Over - If you zero your rifle at say 30 yards and you see a bunny at 60 yards and your going for a head shot, if you aim stright at it you will probably miss or hit low, hold over would be aiming about an inch above its head.

 

Hold Under - rifle zero'd at 70 yards and a bunny at 25 yards, you would need to aim below the head, if it was feeding aiming at the ground. My problem with this way is that .22's often richochet off the ground if you don't get it right and more likely to just clip the rabbit causing injury unless you are very expereince with your set up.

[gixer1]

Mark,

 

Thanks for the reply that has explained alot of it.

 

Regards,

 

Garry.

[jcbruno]

another thing always start at 25 yards so if your scope is realy off you are still hitting paper and can make those adjustments

and a 22lr not being a center fire and your max distance of effective firing being 100 yards i zero it rate on the cross hairs at 50 and the learn where to hold it over your target for 100 yards :blink:

[plinker]

if i was you i would zero at 65yds then move back 10yds and fire another group then back 10 more yds and so on this will give you a good idea of the holdover/under required at various ranges with your set up,also letting off plenty of rounds will get you used to your rifle if you are going to be doing most of your shooting of a bipod you should zero from it.

[shaun4860]

Mark,

 

Thanks for the reply that has explained alot of it.

 

Regards,

 

Garry.

 

 

well he is a teacher but i must admit he had me lost with the UDLR.... :blink:

[stuey]

Nowt wrong with us teachers :blink:

 

Just remind me Mark, whats happening next Friday? Oh yes thats it, we break up for 2 weeks holiday....ah 2 weeks of relaxing shooting get in there!!!

 

regards

 

Stu

[Mungler]

Every time I zero a rifle I have a complete and utter mental block on which way to "click".

 

Even typing this I can't remember whether it's clicking to move the cross hairs to the point of impact or working the other way by clicking to move the point of impact into the cross hairs.

 

I may consider a tatoo to remind me. :blink:

 

EDIT:

 

That also reminds me that the S&B scope have german letters on the dials.

 

Left and Right is fine (links and recht)

 

But I am ******** if I can remember the german for "up" and "down" or what letters the words start with.

Edited March 27, 2008 by Mungler

[Dunkield]

'H' is up on S&B's - Think of Jonesy in Dads Army 'Handi hock'

 

If you can't remember that think of it like a screw.

Clockwise moves the POI UP and clockwise moves the POI RIGHT - easy as that.

[Mungler]

Wheeey that will do nicely.

 

Now to find a tattooist or get arrested and have that information incorporated into a spiders web and other miscellaneous jailhouse tats.

Edited March 27, 2008 by Mungler

[magman]

Good tip stuart :blink:

Edited March 27, 2008 by magman

[Mungler]

Good tip stuart :blink:

 

 

Clockwise for up

Clockwise for right

 

 

EDIT.

 

Lol magman with your cheeky edit. Yes I saw you. Nah nah nee nah nah.

 

Perhaps we can both find that tattooist?

Edited March 27, 2008 by Mungler

[magman]

Good tip stuart :blink:

 

 

Clockwise for up

Clockwise for right

 

 

EDIT.

 

Lol magman with your cheeky edit. Yes I saw you. Nah nah nee nah nah.

 

Perhaps we can both find that tattooist?

 

 

 

[Mungler]

Yes, I saw it and thought that's daft, best I "quote it" before he sees he's being daft and effects a cheeky edit.

 

He may be slow tonight but he's flippin quick on the edit.

 

:blink:

[magman]

 

Lost me Mung :blink:

[Bazooka Joe]

One thing to note is that the point of impact will change as you change magnification on that scope. For rabbits I'd pick a magnification, 8x is plenty, and then zero it. If you zoom in your point of impact will have changed (as it will if you zoom out) - most cheap scopes suffer from this.

 

What brings you to this conclusion Pin, do you talk from experience?

 

I agree with JCBruno, best advice so far,

 

BJ

[Dunkield]

Good tip stuart

 

 

Clockwise for up

Clockwise for right

Hopefully I didn't need to state anti-clockwise for DOWN and anti-clockwise for LEFT

I remembered this afterwards, white target patches fit the turrets on S&B's perfectly, so you stick them on and right whatever is easiest for you to remember

[Vegeta]

One thing to note is that the point of impact will change as you change magnification on that scope. For rabbits I'd pick a magnification, 8x is plenty, and then zero it. If you zoom in your point of impact will have changed (as it will if you zoom out) - most cheap scopes suffer from this.

 

What brings you to this conclusion Pin, do you talk from experience?

 

I agree with JCBruno, best advice so far,

 

BJ

 

I think it depends on the scope and the focal plane but I could be talking out my behind

Edited March 28, 2008 by Vegeta

[gixer1]

Can anyone with a Hawke 3 - 10 x 44 Nite Eye illuminator give me there opinion on zeroing and general opinion of it.

 

Regards,

 

Garry.