activeviii

Yes you can get to the Gas port. you can download a manual to help with it but.. when you reassemble the valve shaft make sure the cut half is downwards or you will have different issue. also the bushing piston that sits in the gas piston needs to be kept spotless. then when you find something worn or damages you need to go to Italy or USA for the parts as GMK will offer no help what so ever. When you press the carrier assembly up, hold it there and slowly lower. see if you can get it to stick up. if it does then it may well be bents, common fault. you can either bend to straighten or replace. Cartridge latch can also be sticky or the one corner wears, the cartridge dosent catch and spits the magazine empty. i spray with engine cleaner and then blow out with air line and oil with Teflon or PTFE dry spray. I have used 65mm 24 of 7 with no problem but then it was only a box of them. 65mm eley 30g not had an issue with. i use them when roost shooting as i have 500 to use up. 70mm 29g of 6 hull are the normal fodder, very dirty but work very well.

I'll have a look. i might have the owners man as well. i think i have a set of the yellow spots and a few other bits laying around.

Is she insured? Makes a big difference whether you get it do now or later. leave the kids and their nanna's

Cerakote is very hard to get your hands on over here, as im finding out. Duracoat would be my thoughts too. to get someone to paint a whole rifle would be £150+. to buy Duracoat and have a go your self would be £32 If someone knows where i can get a mall amount of Cerakote in graphite black, H-146, then PM me PLEASE. i can get from over the pond for $35 but the postage and paper work is not good. lots of small fiddly parts i need to do and dont want to pay someone to do what i can do.

Any idea on the paint? you might just get away with thinners or acetone. wrap the barrel with kitchen towel and then soak it with thinners, put a bag tightly over the top so it doesnt evaporate to quickly. leave a few hours and test a patch, once it starts to move then scrap off. Scotchbite pad will finish it but i would start with the green pot pad first, if not then the purple will cut it back. you will need a bright polished finish for a bluing, anything less will look a mess. you could always strip paint and then black paint it. ask your local car body shop for a price for a two pack spray. Ok, its not Duracoat or Cerakote but easier than bluing.

I think it was the doubler thats caused the POI shift, i took it off and adjusted the locking ring. once i have things sorted i will do a little messing with it on a 22lr and see if i can get it to shift, at least then i will know the cause. dont worry about the pulsar illuminator, more money spent thats not needed. a T20 with 840nm led will be more than you need. i can see well past the 300 meter range. one the recorder turns up i will try and get a recording of this. the longest i will normally shoot a fox with it is 100mters but saying that, the last one was 136mters with no problem what so ever.

nope, not worth selling. I'll pay the postage and take it off your hands though

Yes i use a photon with a doubler. its on the 222 but im having a problem with POI shift so need to test a bit more before putting on the 243. You need a better light souce, i use a T20 and it works very well I also have found a cheap DVR, dont know if it will work yet but it says it will. $28. so worth a punt. if it dosent then i can add a camera for a NV spotter so worth the playing with.

Where you based. It might be worth asking for hands on exsperiance with a reloaded. More than welcome here is you close.

oh Christ! of course i did. she might have something interesting

So come on then, how many 'copy and paste' the above user name?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/321201984630?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2648 same thing but £150 less

turn torch on and then 1/4 turn of the tail cap to turn off. when you want light just turn the tail cap. less wires and no need to keep hold of the switch while your tracking a wee beastie.

Rather expensive isnt it. there only a 100ml bottle. seaclean2 is double concentrated 500ml bottle

Shimming is a bodge, no two ways about it. think what you are doing to the shape of the scope tube, thin wall aluminium tube of a percussion spun scope is being bent to get more movement on the cross hair. once the damage is done then the scope will always need shimming , that's the reason there are so many people having to shim a second hand scope, because the last owner shimmed it, bent the tube to contort so the hair would zero. If you are running out of clicks and the scope in new then you 9/10 are having mount issues. change the mounts to find the problem. do not BODGE the rings. there is to many damaged scopes on the market. one tell is because the front tube has a crimp mark from the back being shimmed. One of my pet hates is a bodger, to many of them around and i have no time for them.

maplins seaclean2. get it when they have it on offer. about £5.99 a bottle

new shape or mk2 shape?

Sorry to say, but it doesn't work like that Dan, wish it did as it would be so much easier. Each and every rifle will shoot the same brand round to a different POI, some might shoot well, where as others will not. have a try on the Privi Partizan, £12 for 20. if they don't shoot then you haven't lost much. I home load and still playing with combinations but i do like home loading. i have a great, flat, foxing round that will shoot deer but i wouldnt want to shoot big fallow with it. then again my 6.5 is my main stalking rifle. best of luck and really hope your first try is the right one. ATB Phil

http://accurateshooter.net/Downloads/sierra243win.pdf http://www.6mmbr.com/243win.html http://www.chuckhawks.com/243Win.htm http://www.ballisticstudies.com/Knowledgebase/.243+Winchester.html there you go, a little light reading for you melk. the Ballistic study was a good read. there is plenty more reading but enough to get going on.

depending on age of the PES will depend on it you can strip it. Older one you could take apart. newer one Julian sends over to Steve Bowers to weld closed due to a few people having then come apart. No need to do anything with them. just put somewhere warm to dry. from time to time i will stand mine in the ultrasonic cleaner with sea clean 2 in and leave for a cycle of two but there really is no need. I really cant under stand why you would want to spray oil into them, dont worry about rust, it will not happen unless your in salty environment. all your going to do is leave a oily residue in the mod for carbon to stick to.

First. Are the ring bases the right size for the rail. Wrong size will push the scope to the one side and cam upwards. If the rings are right I would optically zero your reticle. Counts the full turns of the turrets and wind back half way. Then in a safe place put a round down at a target board. Big board if you can. Has the bullet gone up and and right more than last zeroing of has it moved the other way. If the other way then you know you have been turning the turrets the wrong way. Happens to the best of us. If this doesn't work then swap rings front to back and test again. If bullet strick moves then replace rings. If this makes no difference the turn them around. Screws facing other way. Test shoot. If bullet strike moves then new rings. If no difference the replace scope. Is you was closer here then drop in and i'll have a look if you like. All the best Phil

Yey Melk the H414 will work nicely on the .308 as well as the .243. do not go down the stupid root of expensive brass and reloading gear. not needed for in the field. the brass you will cry over as you spit the empty case on the floor when you load the just in case round. no time to fumble around catching the brass. yes great on the range where you can take your time and you play the percentages game of chasing v-bull but no need in the field. let you guys with money play that game. i was hoping to test the .243 this week but i dont think it will happen now.

what other rifles might you want to load for. it might be that there is a powder you can use on all. I am liking the H414, it will load 22-250 right up to the 338wm. not sure if it will work on the 222 but it does on the 223. it will even load my 7x57r so for me it might be the new all rounder. bullet wise. dont ask me,i have spent 2 weeks reading every thing to find the one bullet, then best i came up with was the sierra gameking 85gr hollow point BT. im hopping to get out this week to see what it does on the fox. then i will decided on where i will put one into a fallow doe. dont think i would want to shoot a good buck with them though. What im reading is they are a good, soft tissue, light framed, sub 200yrd round. let us know where your going with it. NJC was going to try and get his running with 55gr varmageden's for the fox but he is too busy playing with his tonka toy so dont think we will see the out come this year. we have to wait till he gets bored of the yellow peril, then he will sell it, like he does with guns.

Thanks for the heads up, I have some on the shelf already, Chris Blackburn sorted them for me when i had the 6.5 rebarreled. makes a heck of a difference on the 6.5. the M595 has a softer trigger spring than the T3 and i have not wound it out yet so i have a little more adjustment I cant say anything, im as bad as the next. should have said wish not wife but if it floats the boat.

cheer Dave, very happy for a change. chrono it and then start seeing if i can shoot 500 bought the rifle for fox on nightvision be after a little hiccup with the nv i will leave it on the 222 for now and see is it causes the same fault. so in the mean time i will play, just wife NJC would get his running so we can find a 500 range.