CaptainBeaky

You could always approach a local theatre group - you might at least get a beer out of it or some free tickets, and it's easier than cutting it up, and less upsetting than handing it in to be destroyed.Or if it is an accurate replica of something specific, try the Living History Forums.

The VCR Act and amendments are very opaque - it's quite difficult to work out what is legal and what isn't. As I understand it, a blank-firer has the same legal standing as a non-firing replica or an Airsoft gun, i.e. an Imitation Firearm or a Realistic Imitation Firearm, and you are only allowed to buy one if you are either a re-enactor, a museum, a theatrical group or an airsofter. Of course, a deactivated firearm is an entirely different kettle of fish, and quite legal to buy just because you want one. What? You expected logic? (sigh) Beaten to it! "For the purpose of theatrical performances" is the other category.

Contact cleaner - gets powder residue off as well.

On your marks Get set G...

Really nice blades, consistent, sharp out of the packet. They are machine-, rather than hand-made, which is reflected in the price. I used one of the Enzo Nordic blades to make a knife for No 1 son, and it has been most satisfactory. Brisa also have scales and bolsters for the Enzo range, so if you're buying a blade from there, look at the other bits as well - you may save something on postage.

Don't know much about Lanbers, but have had 3 Baikals, and still have 2 of them.1. Tough as a very tough thing, go bang every time. 2. Bit short of stock, but nothing a spacer can't sort out. 3. Balance can be a little odd, but a little lead in the right place works wonders. 4. Not the lightest of guns, especially given 3. above, but also see 1. 5. Cheap secondhand - if you don't like it, sell it on, without losing much in the process.

Nice work there, Graham, and a lovely piece of timber.

Nice shooting! Do we gather you like your new gun?

Nice work, and getting better, bazza. I would suggest you try a stitch groover when you punch the holes. You'll find that it would make it much easier to get your stitch line parallel to the edge of the sheath. One of these: The gouge runs along at a fixed distance from the edge, and cuts a shallow groove in the surface of the leather, which you then run your marking wheel along. The stitches lie in the groove, which protects them from abrasion. I would also suggest trying a diamond awl instead of drilling your stitching holes - it is a bit more effort, but it pays off in neater stitches. The diamond is set so that the long edges are parallel to the stitch line, so the line of diamonds is slanted. The stitches then lie at a consistent angle and make a nice elegant pattern. Have you been warned about the addictive nature of what you have started? Oh, and I really love that bog oak

Just found another minor problem - a crack running halfway along the fore-end. Another repair on the list. Hey ho...

Thanks for the offers, gents - I'm actually in Kent, so a bit far to collect! I've just checked again, and I only really need the first piece. The second was to go under the recoil pad to increase LOP, and I've decided to do that with an ebonite spacer later on. The first piece is the important bit, as I need to splice in a piece where the stock meets the action. It really is offcut size - it just needs the grain running the right way (lengthwise). Gordon - do I take you to mean that you have the rest of the Beretta stock after cutting a piece off, or the piece you cut off? Sorry to act thick, but it's been a long week! Archie - that sounds like it would be a shame to cut it up

I find myself in need of a couple of bits of walnut, to patch up the stock on the SKB I've just bought. First piece (most important) 3.5" long x 1/2" square minimum. Second piece (would be nice, but not absolutely vital) 7" x 2" x 1/2" Is anyone able to assist? Thanks for looking

Of course we are! And part of the fun is the antici... pation! Enjoy the new gun, and don't forget to sing in the car on the way there

Just checked mine, and it's dated 1963, so slightly younger than me! Thanks, HDAV

It takes ages to clear through to the point where you can't detect it on a dip test.If you get dipped and found to be using something you shouldn't, you will probably lose the vehicle :(

Magnifying glass located!

Seriously - don't go there...

Thanks All it says on it is "Light". Single trigger non-ejector, pistol grip and splinter fore end, so I would guess at a variant on the model 100. Weighs in at 6 lb 9 oz. I'll have a look at the proof stamps tomorrow if I get the chance. Edit: splinter, not bt fore-end.

I've just bought one... Actually, the one on Gun Watch last weekend. Bought as a doer-upper, so cheap! The query is, does anyone have an idea how old it is? Chap I bought it from said he had had it 15 years, and his wife's uncle had owned it before that. Serial number starts L160xxx. As advertised, the wood is tatty. The wrist has a longitudinal crack at one side, and the cheeks have been repaired badly. Mechanically, it is very good - the action looks like new inside, and the barrels are ok for their apparent age. Bluing is showing it's age, and there are a couple of little dings, but all the difficult bits are ok, so I'm pretty happy with it. It's now in bits, and I started the restoration work on the stock this evening, scrubbing it in soap and washing soda to remove all the old oil, especially from the head, which stank of old mineral oil. After two washes, the whole thing is a different colour! Another couple of washes between now and the weekend, then into the turpentine bath with it. Pictures are being taken...

Signed, fwiw. Every concession we give up without a fight is another click on the ratchet leading to the complete loss of private ownership of any sort of firearm.

Wasn't there an EOTech in the Other Sales section just the other day, our is that not the type you're after?

Bazza Have a look on the British Blades forum - loads of links to resources on there. A couple to start you off; www.brisa.fi The Good Stuff Shop (can't remember the url, bit your Google-fu should find it). hth Peter

Have to agree with you here.Also Al Stewart's early stuff.

Gorgeous piece of timber you have there Is the shape comfortable in the hand? Pretty good fit and finish on the ferrule as well - always a difficult bit to get right. Very impressed with the sheath - for a first go that's very tidy. Punched or drilled stitch holes? And are you feeling the itch to do another one yet?

Very pretty! Is it my imagination, or is that stock cast-on (i.e. left handed)?