CaptainBeaky

The 2012 Act concerned makes it illegal for GPs to object to the upload!

Whether you are happy with this and think it's a great idea, or think it stinks to high heaven, I've met so few people who are aware of it that I think it's worth doing everything possible to let people know what's happening and what they can do about it. Once the data's uploaded you have no control over it, so you need to decide now. I'm in the "stinks to high heaven" camp. Note that even if you have previously opted out of the Summary Care Record with the 93c3 code, you have to opt out again from this farrago with the 9Nu0 and 9Nu4 codes - just ask your GP to add these read codes to your record to stop the uploads of confidential and non-identifiable records respectively. Letter printed, filled in and waiting to be posted through the surgery door tomorrow morning. And thanks to kennym for the heads-up.

Best post yet in this whole thread.

You could try using 2 of the figure 8 clamps, to stop the torch twisting. Peter

The same question was asked on welding web, here: http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?251231-Norweld-tig-182 (need to register to see the whole thread, so you may find an answer there) There is a manual in pdf format, but it's in Norwegian! Google Translate may be your friend here. hth

A bucket full of spray cans was left in the generator room at work by a contractor - Elf'n'Safety went ape about it (flammables stored in a HV area), so it had to be removed from site asap. Most convenient! Thought I'd try it, and it works.For the authentic 303 smell, just open a can of creosote next to where you clean your gun

Iirc, the original Youngs 303 contained cresylic acid (the smelly stuff in creosote), which is carcinogenic -hence the change of recipe, and it not smelling like it did when I were a lad! I have recently been using hv contact cleaner as a powder solvent - designed to get the carbon deposits off the contacts of 11kV switchgear. Seems to work quite well, and it was free...

Signed

That was the name! I remember reading "Maneaters of Kumaon" at primary school over and over. Missed a few lessons sitting out of sight in the library, lost in the jungles of India.

They are dead easy to do routine servicing on, as all the bits you need to get to are easily accessible. You don't even need to take the bash plate off to do an oil change, as the dump plug has it's own hole on the plate. The oil filter also sits over a funnel, so any oil that runs out gets collected and drains through a pipe that comes out right next to the drain plug. As Kent says, as long as it has good tyres, exhaust and a long MOT, I think you're laughing.

I run a 96 P plate Surf - for £1500, bite his arm off! Mine has done 98k miles, needed a new exhaust at 15 years old and 60,000 miles, and a new front diff a couple of years ago (although they were my own fault). Hint - if you are going to dunk it in salt water, fit diff breathers first, and rinse afterwards! Otherwise no problems - if you can afford to feed it, buy it. They are a bit thirsty - figure on 24-26mpg. Insurance isn't too bad if you go to one of the specialist insurers , have a look on the the Hilux Surf forum.

Anyone seen wabbitbosher? Better get the St Bernard ready! :?

I am in the unusual position of agreeing with Dave, that the UK would be diminished by the departure of Scotland. However, it also seems to me that the UK would be significantly enhanced by the departure of Alec Salmond.

Sounds like the Box of Useful Items in my garage I'll send a St Bernard if you're not back in a couple of days... I think it might actually be a 627 - 1988, anyway. Thanks!

You have a Baikal parts box?You wouldn't by any chance have a trigger and trigger guard for a 27, would you? (apologies to op for the hijack)

Also try www.brisa.fi and The Good Stuff Shop (you'll have to search for the latter, as I can't remember the url off the top of my head). Both sell excellent components. Do beware - it's addictive!

Yes, it would - have a look on line at the archer's skeleton from the Mary Rose - his shoulders and arms show signs of distortion caused by the muscle development necessary to draw the monster bows.The reconstruction of his appearance also shows this. Back on the main subject: we look at and reevaluate what others have done and said previously, in the light of new information - that is now knowledge progresses. To blindly accept what has gone before is stagnation. That still doesn't necessarily make the "knowledge of the ancients" wrong, mind you

Yes, it would - have a look on line at the archer's skeleton from the Mary Rose - his shoulders and arms show signs of distortion caused by the muscle development necessary to draw the monster bows.The reconstruction of his appearance also shows this. Back on the main subject: we look at and reevaluate what others have done and said previously, in the light of new information - that is now knowledge progresses. To blindly accept what has gone before is stagnation. That still doesn't necessarily make the "knowledge of the ancients" wrong, mind you

Sad to hear this :( Not a bad way to go, mind, out for a walk with his best mates.

You are correct, Mr Hamster, the only way to use a bow of that draw weight is to start low and work up to it, both in strength and more importantly, technique. I can't manage more than about 100 lb these days, as my elbows won't take it any more. If you Google got warbow, you will see videos of folks who shoot bows up to 180 lb. Not delicate lads, but no bigger or presumably stronger than the archers from the Mary Rose. Ok, something of a digression, but to return to the point (at last), what is considered the norm, and therefore acceptable, changes over time, such as the example above of shooting big loads at birds almost in orbit, or shooting huge loads of steel at geese because of it's inferior performance compared to lead. I doubt Mr Greener ever considered that lead shoot would be banned. Times change, and we change with them. Mr Greener's rule of thumb may have been applicable then, but not so much now.

You mean"draw" a longbow or strictly, a warbow. And yes, you're right, most people can't draw a proper warbow, with a 120 lb plus draw weight. I know I can't!

If you use a tarp, don't cover it completely, our it will get soggy and horrible! (guess who made this mistake...) Just cover the top to make a roof. If you want to make a permanent store such as Kent describes above, even better. I cut and split down to stove size straight away, so they are ready to burn in 12-15 months on a south-facing stack.

+1Air circulation is 90% of it, protection from weather is the rest. All our wood stacks are sheltered from the prevailing winds direction, supported off the ground on old pallets and covered with a tarp over the top only. I've recently started making an airspace under the tarp by making a lattice of smaller branches on top of the pile. This seems to help the wood stay dryer.

Welcome to PW

Nice timber on both of those :-)