CaptainBeaky

Working tomorrow, Sunday and Monday :(

Anyone see the big splash article in the Evening Standard? "London Gangs Exploit Law To Get Guns". Easily down to their usual standard! Calling Browning HiPower and Webley mk6 "antique which you can buy legally". Sheesh! Plus a spokesman for NABIS saying "you are entitled to walk down the street with a antique weapon capable of firing real bullets" - as before, disingenuous. Intent immediately makes it OffWep - loading it, or even having ammunition for it stops it being classed as an antique. Plus, "he warns that as the centenary of the First World War passes, more modern weapons such as automatic pistols will become classified as antiques and legal to own." If he works for NABIS, he really ought to know better. And finally, before I explode all over the screen: "Campaigners say the Act fails to define'antique', but leaves it to the police and courts to define" Spherical objects! The Act defines it quite carefully; the police don't get to define the law, and in this case the courts don't need to. And.... breathe....

Ok, need to build a recoil-absorbing mount: there are some good examples to copy down at the museum in Woolwich... Now there's a thought

Because they are being disingenuous? "Tractor output has been increased by 150% in the last year" Public servants are not supposed to tell porkies to said public.

Surely a punt gun is a section 2 shotgun - smooth bore, less than 2" bore (I hope!) and more than 24" barrel, so you shouldn't have any conditions on the license. You could even shoot clays with one, assuming you are, in fact, the Incredible Hulk...

Tighter chokes do tighten the pattern with steel, but because steel doesn't compress going through the choke, the same constriction has a greater effect.Full choke was originally designated as such because that was the point (40 thou) at which a tighter constriction gave no further tightening of the pattern. The same point occurs with steel at around 20 thou, hence the differing constrictions of steel-rated chokes. Shooting steel through a 40 thou choke would put a lot of strain on the barrel, for no improvement in pattern (and quite possibly a worse pattern due to slamming the shot together too hard). My MP153 has steel rated chokes, and according to the figures in the manual, the full choke has a constriction of just over 20 thou, or half choke in old money. Important note: The above is based on a lot of reading, and a fair understanding of the behaviour of materials under stress. Some or all (or less) may not be entirely consistent with reality! I should perhaps preface it with a IMSEO (in my somewhat educated opinion) P

Are your permissions approved for that calibre? Are T-rex's on the General License?

The lignum vitae looks lighter than I expected. What's it like to work with?

That's come out nicely

Thank you, kind sir.

Ta

I've just searched for this, and can't find it - anyone have a link, please?

If nocturnal visitors are a concern, then consider a serious LED torch running on lithium batteries, with a strobe setting. O-light, Klarus, Nitecore, Eagletac all do pocket sized torches running on 2 x CR123 or 1 x 18650, outputs in the 500/600 lumen range, with instant access to the strobe mode. They also have multiple output levels, so you don't always need to use full power. I would suggest a browse through the candlepower forums, where you will find more torches than you can readily shake a stick at.

No1 son did this with my ancient Diana... I made up a crossed chisel-tip drill with a piece of brass rod - harder than the lead, too soft to scratch the bore. Then just drilled the whole plug out by hand, which took all afternoon.

Thank you so much - that is a mental image I would rather not have experienced...

You're welcome He probably won't be any gentler when he does the surgery, but on the plus side, you will hopefully be in La La land at the time! I was considering this one when I was diving regularly, and for the same reason, multiple nose breakage meant I had difficulty clearing ears. In the end I stopped diving instead! Best of luck

Not a sub-mucosal resection? Hope it all goes well.... and.... Man up!

Tom Knapp?

Thanks - it was definitely worth it The DI didn't really blunt any tools, but that is more a reflection of the tools used - I did the rough shaping with a hand saw, then the rest with belt and drum sander, up to the point of finishing, when I switched to Micromesh. Mind you, you really need to wear respiratory protection when sanding this stuff!

Thank you, kind sirs. This one I kept...

Hmmmm - seems the profanity filter isn't an Ifor the Engine fan after all. Strange how it came up to start with, then got the asterisk treatment

Don't know about your handloads, but Ifor the Engine said, "*************************************** (big Oliver Postgate fans at our house )

Having read some of the recent knifemaking threads on PW, I have been motivated to clear out the man-cave and make some more blades. The fact that the Management is pestering me to clear out the garage that contains the man-cave is, of course, entirely irrelevant! Looking through the Box of Things to Finish reveals 6 blades in various stages of completion, from 'waiting for heat-treatment' through to 'ready for a handle', with one detour into 'bolster fitted but it's carp so I'll have to do it again'. There is also a stock for an SKB sxs lurking on the bench in a bath of turps, so I'll have to finish that first. Anyway, here's one I made earlier, and one of which I actually remembered to take work-in-progress photos. Bolster and first spacer fitted and clamped: Handle sections fitted and glued up. Glue set, tang rivetted over, handle marked up ready to start shaping. Finished! Blade is by Pekka Tuominen in what the Finns refer to as 'silver steel'. Handle is desert ironwood with nickel-silver and black fibre fittings, and the accent is piece of mammoth ivory. SHeath is wet-moulded 4mm veg tan leather, dyed with Fiebings oil dye and finished with carnuaba wax. Thanks for looking

+1 for Fiebings oil dye - much better than the water based, or even the spirit-based dyes. Best surface finish I have found is carnuaba wax or paste - a couple of coats rubbed in well then burnished. For edges, I find a better look is to paint the edges with gum tragacanth, and burnish with a piece of very hard wood (I have a very old holly stick for this which I have had for years). Two coats of gum followed by a burnish and a coat of carnuaba wax gives a solid, glossy finish, the sane colour as the rest of the sheath, but with the end grain nicely sealed. hth

No, just the Olympic .38 blank-firer which is specifically banned.