CaptainBeaky

I've just started shooting skeet, and am in the 12-15 range with my sbs. That said, the very first round I did with my MP153 I did a 19 - is it trying to tell me something?

Excellent! I shall be paying that on to a few folk.

Definitely! Have to agree here too - Been doing jujitsu 32 years now, came to it via judo, which I started some 44 years ago, and karate, which I sampled in my teens. Still training in my 50's, and don't anticipate stopping anytime soon.

Yes, I do. Allows a little movement between the tang and the scales, plus I think it looks nice Just don't think using liners means you can skimp on getting the scales properly flat That's a nice piece of burl...

you could try NoScript as well... Stops unwanted java scripts running.

Very impressive

Yes, the site is called British Blades http://www.britishblades.com Other places to get scales; Brisa www.brisa.fi Jean Turner www.jeanturner.co.uk Tutorials: search for "Spyderco Mule - A Full Tang Tutorial" on British Blades. Glue: I use Araldite 2011 (the industrial epoxy, not the stuff you buy in B&Q), others use Devcon 3 ton or similar. Surface prep is probably more important than the brand of glue. Sheath - you could do worse than make your own. There are loads of tutorials around, especially on BB, plus a good one on the Brisa site. Or if you want to have one made, try Rapidboy or Ian Atkinson on BB (or yours truly , although I wouldn't claim to be in their league).

OK, a small selection, in reverse chronological order (latest first)... A small blacksmith knife - A large main gauche dagger - And another - A tanto in aikuchi mountings - Think I've shown this one before - Small O1 and ebony neck knife - yes, that's my Spyderco UKPK next to it. Everyone should have a UKPK (pronounced Uck-Puck, according to my kids!) Working knife, forged from a broken crowbar Not my greatest piece of work, but it's tough and easy to sharpen, and I don't mind, for example, opening bags of sand with it. Can't remember if I've shown this one here -

You're welcome

Now that's gone, cheer yourself up by searching for Cegga, and Owen Bush, and have a drool at some of their axes

All of them!With the exception of the Flying Spaghetti Monster, of course (may you be touched by his noodly appendage).

He does make them pretty, doesn't he? Proper handsome, that one is.

And finally... If you've got this far, thanks for looking. More thanks to Daf and Gordon for the walnut. You may note that there are no photos of my practice attempts at working the walnut - I have drawn a decent veil over these... At some stage, I will have to re-do the chequering on the pistol grip where I had to remove the damaged wood, but that is for another day. Total spend, excluding the gun, is about £40.

OK, some photos, if anyone's interested Apologies for the poor quality of some of the photos - some were a bit of an afterthought, and all were taken with my phone! The stock was in rather poor condition: multiple contusions along both sides of the lower edge . Top of left cheek cracked away and repaired badly - the wood used appears to be ash, and the gaps were filled in with red Hermetite sealant. Yes, seriously! Close-up of damage to edges of stock Dotted lines show position and length of cracks in the head of the stock: Left cheek with old oil finish removed - the ash sticks out like a sore thumb. Removing all the oil, grease and dirt made the cracks even more obvious, and bigger than I first thought: There was a crack running two-thirds the length of the fore end as well. And there's more... Fore end iron stripped and cleaned... ... and re-assembled, and the cracks glued up. After two weeks in the turpentine bath: Right stock cheek pinned and epoxied, with the old repair to the left cheek removed. New piece of walnut glued and pinned in place, held down with earthing tape while the glue sets. Good stuff this tape - slightly stretchy, so it's easy to build up the clamping pressure gradually. And set, prior to removing the tape residue and shaping the new piece. And shaped to the original profile. OK, my attempt at matching the grain was a bit off the mark, but I'm learning this as I go along! Fitted to the action - again, I'm not entirely happy with the fit along the vertical surface: But the profile from the top looks OK A piece of horn from the Box of Useful Items became a pistol grip cap - cut to size: And fitted and blended in, also removing the damage from the bottom of the pistol grip. Must re-do the chequering as well. The white marks on the bottom of the cap is figuring within the horn. Re-finishing started - after one coat of oil.

If an axe won't shave hairs off your arm, it's blunt! (splitters and mauls excepted).

These are gorgeous! Mine is the longer working version, also by Mr Nilsson. Takes a razor edge, and for any tree under 6"diameter, it's faster than using a chainsaw once you've fueled and oiled up the motorised version Wouldn't even think of throwing it, mind...

I have run my Surf on and off with various veg oils for the last 8 years and 60k miles - WVO and SVO. WVO gets filtered through a 25 micron bag filter and washed with water to remove acidic oxidation residues. So far, so good...

Hi, johno

Loads here (also Kent as above). Noisy beggars, and displace a lot of the indigenous finches, as they occupy the same (ish) niche, and are bigger and more aggressive. Had a sparrowhawk take one in the garden the other year - bright green feathers all over the shop!

Nikwax paste wax - excellent. Mink oil - pretty good, but tends to soften leather slightly. Don't use neatsfoot on your boots - it will soften them into unwearability! Great for stuff like straps and belts and tack, which needs to be flexible and waterproof, NOT so for boots.

Paracord store is part of the Bushcraft store.

www.theparacordstore.co.ukSells 1000 ft reels at a decent price.

I've always put down English as my nationality on forms - never been picked up on it yet I'm not Welsh, and have as much Swedish as Scots ancestry, so English is probably closest.

M2 Essential doesn't have the Comfortech stock - might be one of these.

I don't think anyone is suggesting or implying that they can do the job better - more a case of disappointment that a good job done is being let down by poorly conceived tabloid-ish publicity. Illegal firearms (the sawn-off, submachine guns, if that's what they were, not deacs) off the street and out of the hands of scrotes - great. Publishing a trophy photo including starting pistols and airguns, all described as illegal firearms - not so great. Tends to lose you some sympathy and support from a law-abiding section of the community who could reasonably be expected to be right behind the aims of Trident, but are rather touchy about this sort of "All Guns Are Evil" publicity. I do realise that you can't necessarily control what the papers actually print, but the material released could be better chosen.