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markyboy07

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About markyboy07

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  • Birthday February 29

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  • Gender
    Male
  • From
    Berkshire
  • Interests
    Shootin, fishin and boatin!

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  1. Heres the link to the page on different motors suitable for grinders. http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/grinder-motors.html
  2. ignore that just checked mines not a 2.5hp its a 2.2KW which is 3HP. 2HP may be a little under powered.
  3. i found a great write up on the perfect motor/ drive wheel and VFD combination ill try and find it for you. From what i can remember they said that 2hp was fine. If you'd ;like more rpm you can always fit a larger drive wheel. most come with a 4" but they also offer 5" and 6". you can also run the motors at a higher rpm than stated on the motor by ramping up the settings on the VFD. thats what ive done on mine, i think mines a 2.5 hp 3 phase motor with a 4" drive wheel and a cheapy chinese VFD for £80 off of Amazon. i usually only run it at 60% and find it grinds plenty fast enough.
  4. thanks for the info, i might give it a go.
  5. ive always fancied making a stainless steel blade but was put off by the heat treating process to be honest. Lots of talk about liquid nitrogen and soaking at heat for an hour, air quenching, plate quenching or oil quenching. do you mind if i ask how you go about it? understand if its a trade secret. lol 😂
  6. Do you heat treat the stainless yourself?
  7. I have one from Lidl, it does everything it should and is very reliable. The chainsaw attachment is probably the best attachment and gets a lot of use. the only downside is that it is so heavy, which makes the hedge trimmer almost useless as you have to hold the entire weight of it upwards. I need to take a breather every two minutes before starting again.
  8. I've had issues with that recently on the two guns I have in socks the other two guns in the same cabinet have no socks and no rust???
  9. Yeah i did,i think it has some carbon content and it did harden somewhat i just dont think it would of held an edge very well. The finished blade in the photos is remade with O1 tool steel and heat treated without any issues. Thanks Marlin, yes i do enjoy it, its certainly keeping me sane during lockdown.
  10. Thanks for all the kind comments.
  11. Yeah this was the same, the first one i made with the leaf spring i managed to get it really thin and super flexible which was great but it didnt lend itself at all well to sharpening on the lansky. maybe water stones are the way to go with these types of blades?
  12. Started making this knife for a mate back in October, Started off with an old piece of leaf spring which i thought would be ideal as it was quite thin to start with and seemed to be quite flexible also. Cut it to shape and ground the bevels which was tricky as its such a long and thin blade. Unfortunately the heat treat was unsuccessful i had two go's at it and it just didn't get as hard as i'd of liked. wont be a total waste as i will put a handle on it and keep it for myself. I ordered up some O1 tool steel and started again, i did toy with the idea of forging the shape but was a little concerned about warping the blade on the heat treat after forging such a thin blade. I got through the heat treat and tempering stage with no issues and then sharpened and polished up the blade. i wanted to do something a bit different for the handle so chose two different pieces of wood, an oak burl and some Mexican rose wood, i used a hole saw to cut out each piece and used some thin gauge brass and aluminium to make up the gap made by the thickness of the hole saw blade. I'm really happy with the way the handle turned out, and now have some ideas of how to improve this design already. I started on the sheath next, i have been practising some different designs on leather work but not had much success with it, it looks ok but a bit amateurish. So i stuck with something simple for this design.
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