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About Spoon

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    St Albans

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  1. I've got a set of dummies from an old website (dummycartridges.net or similar, long since dead) which sound similar. They're loaded with shot and crimped down on to some kind of card. The primer is glue so not the worst if you dry fire, but not recommended. The rim gets chewed up fairly quickly with all the loading and unloading, particularly if you don't unload from the bottom. I found a lightweight and unfilled dummy that is much more durable - I chewed up the edges on one fixing a problem with my bolt action (locating a burr) but the rest load and unload without taking a knock. Chewed or not, they cycle fine. I find them useful for checking the action or walking somebody new through the process. My dad set a record of sending one across the room and behind the sofa when testing on his O/U.
  2. These are great, I'm very tempted to give these a go. I always assumed its because you have valid reason to change barrels (different lengths, replaced if ******** etc.) while the action has the serial number on it which is the bit where you prove its the item on your ticket.
  3. Have some idea of what you have available locally and what you want to do - things like knowing where your local clay range is, or who you plan to shoot with or where you plan to go. I got the strong impression that my FEO was happier when he spoke to me and I explained about the three closest places I'd looked at and why I was going to the one I chose, despite not having done much shooting before.
  4. Spoon

    Gun safes

    Near Ipswich, according to his previous posts.
  5. As with figgy and what I have in my box that very much appears to be a V1. Start with a something Mobil which is what the Teague I use with mine is threaded for. Should be pretty clear to tell.
  6. Welcome to the Hatsan club! We've prepared the wards and said the sacred words so hopefully the "you should have just spent a grand and got a Beretta" gang stay away. I've been meaning for ages to ask quite what this forum thinks dirty is when they say "keep your semi auto clean and it'll run fine". I give mine a full going over after each outing, cleaning it down with a generic bore cleaner and then giving it a rub with Froglube CLP to either get any tough bits (usually the bolt face) and to keep it nicely lubed. My Hatsan had never fluffed a shot, so as an experiment I ran 100 21g carts through it from clean. Two fail to ejects out of 100 later and I ran it for 900 more on the usual 28g with no issues at all. One hundred more 21g produced 2 more failure to ejects and I stopped and cleaned it again. Basically if you keep the gas port in the barrel remotely clean, and make sure the O-ring is clean (spares on links below and Ebay) and not degraded then I suspect you'll have few issues. Biggest challenge I've had is running 67 or 65mm rounds, and usually then if only loading 3 (which I don't do at a clay ground). Treat it with as much love as you feel you need to for the price you paid, but know a bit of TLC should guarantee some sense of reliability. Hatsans, to my knowledge, come with either V1, V2, or V3 chokes. The early guns tend to be V1 or V2, and the newer ones (with the bolt release in the loading gate) come with V3. That's certainly not gospel, just what I think I've pieced together. The chokes are all different, just to be a pain. Airgunspares has all 3 versions (Dauntsey Guns have them too) and has a nice little "*** do I have" guide: You'll see that V2 and V3 come in flush or extended, and that V1 are flush only. Of the three, I only know the following compatibility: V1 - Mobil (I have a Teague in mine so pretty confident) V2 - No idea V3 - Remmington (according to this thread) I had a quick google and couldn't see anything on V2 thread chokes but you might with a bit of persistence. Enjoy the gun!
  7. Interestingly, my sticky buttoned Fabarm has been sat in my cabinet for a few weeks without its fore end on and having put it together again and tried it out today its now as easy to operate as any other of my semis. Initial thought is without the fore end, and the cap, the spring has sat without pressure on it for what is likely a very long time for an old gun. Not proclaiming a fix, just confused as to the change. Does this make sense to anyone? Or shall I lay out an offering for the semi-auto fairy?
  8. I have the same issue on my Fabarm. It's an old gun so put it down to age and gunk, but haven't had time to whip out the trigger group and figure out exactly what the issue is.
  9. How long ago did you order? I don't believe you can get parts any more as per their FAQ:
  10. Is this just banning those type of guns that are semi auto but basically have a forced bolt hold open after each trigger pull, with oversized bolt releases? I thought this kind of workaround was absurdly expensive compared to sinlmilar options so I wonder how many people are effected.
  11. Teague advised it would be safe provided the choke screwed up to the safety step. Quick inspection and it did, so 105 shots later I can confirm it did in fact work fine.
  12. So the Luxano comes with two barrels, but the second one already had a choke blow out from a previous owner so the sanity check is to avoid having two unchoked 24" barrels! But as you say, the proof is in the pudding...
  13. Hi all, I'm looking for a second opinion/a sanity check. The Teague fairy has sent me a ported Mobil choke, and the only gun I have that fits Mobil is my Hatsan Escort Luxano. It's an old model and through measurement and marking I determined it to be threaded for Mobil so popped the new arrival in. What I found was that it sits snugly (using the Teague key) but leaves about a half turn of thread showing. I've measured the space in the barrel for the choke, the original internal chokes and compared that to how much of the new Teague is sat inside the barrel and it all seems to be identical. My only experience of extended chokes is with the V3 Hatsan's which have the thread on the bottom. Based on my ramblings, and the photo attached, am I mad for thinking its perfectly safe to use the choke? And before its said, I'm aware it doubles the value of the Hatsan 😂
  14. Yeah but you'd look A-Team cool with Mini-14's. Cigar optional.
  15. So this schematic suggests its a "Link". Seems to be a few styles but one of the ones that does have a pictures is close to yours suggesting this might be right. Link is an annoyingly generic term to search for tho so might be hard.
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