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Spoon

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    St Albans

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  1. AGL and Ian Cooley now closed.
  2. AGL are open but have pushed back their member shoot which was scheduled for tomorrow. No food and the lodge is shut, don't congregate to close around the ground etc.. Seems they're doing a pre-pay phone in service where you can request a number of clays, and carts if needed, and show your license on arrival to receive the Promatic card to use without going in the shop. If I wasn't considered at risk I'd probably go for the fresh air.
  3. Sounds like you're after a Mossberg 395? I've not seen the later 585/595s in the UK, possibly due to the detachable mag issue around Section 1/2. Don't know if the 385's show up either. I've seen a few, but not many, floating about. I don't recall seeing one that didn't have the magazine welded in place. I've seen more on GunStar than on GunTrader and it looks as if the one I have is the only one that's ever shown up here, although it did sell here twice. The .410 183 model seems to be more common. You might try Mr Bosher to see if lightning strikes twice. My experience is somewhat limited - I go out and bash clays with it occasionally but own it mostly as its interesting and pretty. Its small, and swapping to it from a semi auto makes it feel like a child's toy. For me the comb is a little low. As its light and small, punchy loads...punch a little. It has the C-lect choke - same as on the 500/600 pumps which works well enough. The sights give it away for what I assume is more of a hunting design - the front bead is paired with a rear "U" which can be weird when going from a rib and front bead. Mine had a burr which made cycling more than one shot more or less impossible but having sorted it the action is easy and smooth with a little Frog Lube. Loading requires you to feed two in and cover the brass with the bolt, before loading in to the chamber but its something that comes natural after a few goes. Cleaning is simple enough and I don't find the welded mag to get in the way of anything. The biggest problem I've found is that you can't get parts in the UK - there's a US company that make everything you might need but won't ship due to ITAR. I need a safety bar but can't get one as it counts as a firearm part for import/export purposes. The best bit about it is racking the bolt and having the spent cartridge go flying, regardless of if you hit anything.
  4. That's the one! I'd found it online and knew he'd buy it the moment I showed him at the show. He eventually caved a couple of hours later. He spent the last two days sorting out the chokes (only one would go in all barrels, the others only fit one barrel) and cleaning the fore end which had a couple of cracks so I think there were a few niggles that were reflected in the price. He loves it though - I think its something that works better in .410 than anything larger.
  5. Akkar Triple Crown? Tri barrel in 12g, 20g, 28g, or 410. My dad picked one up at the shooting show Or the UGB25 as said, I'd love one as they're nicely odd. Cosmi is a little pricey...
  6. John Knibbs has a large selection. If you can't find what you need then Edgar Brothers are the importer, drop them a line to find out the part number and your RFD will order for you through them.
  7. I've got a set of dummies from an old website (dummycartridges.net or similar, long since dead) which sound similar. They're loaded with shot and crimped down on to some kind of card. The primer is glue so not the worst if you dry fire, but not recommended. The rim gets chewed up fairly quickly with all the loading and unloading, particularly if you don't unload from the bottom. I found a lightweight and unfilled dummy that is much more durable - I chewed up the edges on one fixing a problem with my bolt action (locating a burr) but the rest load and unload without taking a knock. Chewed or not, they cycle fine. I find them useful for checking the action or walking somebody new through the process. My dad set a record of sending one across the room and behind the sofa when testing on his O/U.
  8. These are great, I'm very tempted to give these a go. I always assumed its because you have valid reason to change barrels (different lengths, replaced if ******** etc.) while the action has the serial number on it which is the bit where you prove its the item on your ticket.
  9. Have some idea of what you have available locally and what you want to do - things like knowing where your local clay range is, or who you plan to shoot with or where you plan to go. I got the strong impression that my FEO was happier when he spoke to me and I explained about the three closest places I'd looked at and why I was going to the one I chose, despite not having done much shooting before.
  10. Spoon

    Gun safes

    Near Ipswich, according to his previous posts.
  11. As with figgy and what I have in my box that very much appears to be a V1. Start with a something Mobil which is what the Teague I use with mine is threaded for. Should be pretty clear to tell.
  12. Welcome to the Hatsan club! We've prepared the wards and said the sacred words so hopefully the "you should have just spent a grand and got a Beretta" gang stay away. I've been meaning for ages to ask quite what this forum thinks dirty is when they say "keep your semi auto clean and it'll run fine". I give mine a full going over after each outing, cleaning it down with a generic bore cleaner and then giving it a rub with Froglube CLP to either get any tough bits (usually the bolt face) and to keep it nicely lubed. My Hatsan had never fluffed a shot, so as an experiment I ran 100 21g carts through it from clean. Two fail to ejects out of 100 later and I ran it for 900 more on the usual 28g with no issues at all. One hundred more 21g produced 2 more failure to ejects and I stopped and cleaned it again. Basically if you keep the gas port in the barrel remotely clean, and make sure the O-ring is clean (spares on links below and Ebay) and not degraded then I suspect you'll have few issues. Biggest challenge I've had is running 67 or 65mm rounds, and usually then if only loading 3 (which I don't do at a clay ground). Treat it with as much love as you feel you need to for the price you paid, but know a bit of TLC should guarantee some sense of reliability. Hatsans, to my knowledge, come with either V1, V2, or V3 chokes. The early guns tend to be V1 or V2, and the newer ones (with the bolt release in the loading gate) come with V3. That's certainly not gospel, just what I think I've pieced together. The chokes are all different, just to be a pain. Airgunspares has all 3 versions (Dauntsey Guns have them too) and has a nice little "*** do I have" guide: You'll see that V2 and V3 come in flush or extended, and that V1 are flush only. Of the three, I only know the following compatibility: V1 - Mobil (I have a Teague in mine so pretty confident) V2 - No idea V3 - Remmington (according to this thread) I had a quick google and couldn't see anything on V2 thread chokes but you might with a bit of persistence. Enjoy the gun!
  13. Interestingly, my sticky buttoned Fabarm has been sat in my cabinet for a few weeks without its fore end on and having put it together again and tried it out today its now as easy to operate as any other of my semis. Initial thought is without the fore end, and the cap, the spring has sat without pressure on it for what is likely a very long time for an old gun. Not proclaiming a fix, just confused as to the change. Does this make sense to anyone? Or shall I lay out an offering for the semi-auto fairy?
  14. I have the same issue on my Fabarm. It's an old gun so put it down to age and gunk, but haven't had time to whip out the trigger group and figure out exactly what the issue is.
  15. How long ago did you order? I don't believe you can get parts any more as per their FAQ:
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