farmerben

I do just this with my quad. Use one scope that I have to remove to change the barrels, dial the relevant elevation in (believe it or not the windage is the same) and it’s bang on every time. Can’t help otherwise but just to show it is possible. .22 and her barrels.

I've got a one piece tetra rod for mine, not too impressed to be honest and now just boresnake. First one wasn't drilled straight for the jag! The one I have now is getting a wear patch on one side at the end of the rod so presumably is rubbing the bore and it's not uncommon to punch the jag straight through the patch. That's even after running the snake through it. Always feels dry no matter what I use (bore foam, tetra, kg) Am I doing it wrong or is it the tools?

Shot three this morning. Blew two clean out the ground (whole but dead) and could only find a front foot off the other. He's either digging in circles or obliterated! Been tidying up some odd carts. 34g of no. 5 works quite well!

I'll add my bit. On Tuesday I shot 9 moles in the space of about 45mins. On a good working day they will dig at the same time which has been about 9.30 and 1.30. Drive round and establish the area each mole is working in and make a mental note also try and establish the time your moles work by kicking some hills over. Drive round at approx the right time and usually if a mole is working you'll have a push in 5mins. Wait until the mole has a good heave, something like twitch, push,push, heeaave and BANG! Job done. The old man always used to shoot them out the land rover at about 5yards or so but I rather go round on the quad and creep up the last 10 yards or so. Make sure you don't drive or walk over the main run coming from the ditch or hedge. I have traps too because some moles just have erratic working times to the others and shooting them just isn't worth the travel time across the farm. Hope that helps. Edit to add: don't kick too many hills flat because the mole keeps going back to push up the bit of soil that falls in which makes it harder to know where he's going to be working.

I don't have a spare one but the other half has a life proof case that is supposed to be water proof. Rubber seals etc. Seems quite good to me. Hth.

I would agree. I think a little experience maybe required. I'm not trying to take the mick but Lloydi will have plenty to learn with a 22lr and an hmr let alone a centre fire. Running and walking and all that.

Wouldn't catch me laying a gun on its side and opening the bolt. For one you would have to stand over it and potentially be in line for a face of brass from a burst case on its way out! With an HMR I would probably roll the gun to the right and open the bolt to eject the case away from me and keep any body parts away from the possible bolt trajectory. I noticed the OP said "no click, no fire". Bad cartridges are not his problem, dodgy firing pin/ trigger mechanism more like!

Bit late in the season I know but looking for some ferreters to take care of some rabbits round our new leys. PM me, I'll check as often as I can so bear with me!

What the hell did Archie get up to in 5 mins to get that bad?

Sorry guys, I'm going to support this one because I installed a plexidor in our house for the Doberman. I would agree about the training as if you've got a dog that's liable to bring all kinds of **** indoors it could be a problem. Although to be fair the nasty **** you refer to shouldn't be there anyway! Unless your garden is large, chasing things won't be a problem because it won't be there if it has any sense after a while, barking should just be trained out anyways. Dirt is caught using turtle mats and towels and usually his feet are clean by the time he has made his way from utility to kitchen. Dog can be watered outside if it's a bit of a slobberer or likes to submarine and make a general mess with water. I would advise though that some fundamental training is well instilled as like some of the above say it does give carte Blanche to some habits so you just have to be sensible about it but it is better than nose does on the bifold doors or battering them and scratching the glass because he wants to go see his stable girls terriers. Security is an issue I will agree as plenty dogs get stolen but that's something you'll have to judge for yourself. We can leave him for quite a long time and feel happy he's ok. The door comes with a steel plate that can be screwed to the inside which is secure and a lock for the doors but that's not to great tbh. I can fit thought the doors but I'm not a big guy, great when the missus locks me out when I've been up the pub! If installing in a wall bear in mind the thickness of the wall as its a fair step for a dog, I would recommend a door for a small to medium sized dog as the door should only be as high shoulder to chest. Dog goes out all hours but mainly 4.30am first thing is the time I wouldn't let him out Double glazed, doesn't blow open in a gale, no draughts etc etc. Sorry about the rambling, hope it helps.

Double sided DMT sharpener that opens like a butterfly knife. Fine and medium sides to it. Use a permanent marker on the bevel of the blade so you can see the edge as you are sharpening. Hold the knife on the edge of the kitchen side and file away with the sharpener. I do this with very hard blades as its quite easy to get gung ho and never get them sharp when you have let the edge dull. A bit of water helps rinse out the marker dye as you go

Didn't watch the clip but i guess it describes how you can push the dials to one side so you can see a notch somewhere In the shaft. Line up each one and at some point in their mutual rotation you will be unlocked.

I'm quite a slight guy and found a .308 to be much more fun with a moderator on it. Sure it's great to make some noise but you don't want to develop a flinch or other bad habits, it will also reduce that 'jumping' which i assume would be caused by the muzzle blast. Perhaps you can't use them at the range?

Evening chaps. I have been given a few rcbs bits after somebody passed. I dont reload but was considering having a go as I have a 243 and a 308 so this gift has given me the motivation to look into the required bits. I have a reloader special, 505 scales, uniflow, lee metal melter and a lubamatic so a good start. I don't really need the metal melter but may keep it, would anyone need a lubamatic and what's it worth? Said I would give the proceeds to charity. Any thoughts are welcome.

Ummm, if you look at the weight it will have been crimped onto the cord. This crimp is what prevents the weight falling through so just file it off. Easy. Theosmith was spot on.

Thanks chaps, may have to go look at a T3, don't think I could stretch to a sako at the mo. would the heavy barrel be worth it for a 243 do you think?

Looking at getting a .243 and having read the forum it seems they can be loaded to shoot flat and fast; almost 22-250 territory. Which rifle or barrel type (twist) would be recommend for 58 grain pills? Wouldnt mind another t3. Are the 58 grainers available off the shelf or are they home rolled, i am looking at finding some reloading gear if anyone has had enough of it themselves! Many thanks

Would completely agree with this except you'll find they dig at certain times which can be established by keep flattening mole hills and checking for work. Once you know what time it's usually a case of driving round and waiting ten minutes at most. Wait for the second or third push and shoot the base of the molehill towards where you think the mole is - harder than you think! Very often they come in a loop from the last hill I to the side of the new one. I would say bloody dangerous is a bit much as I doubt moles would push a rock likely to cause harm. Mole hills are soft fluffy dirt so I am pretty sure it would absorb almost all the energy even if there was some grit in it. Nonetheless perhaps wearing goggles is a good idea.

Sorry been busy but I'm back now. Crack runs from behind the bolt down towards the trigger, must be the weakest area as it's very thin either side of the action. The crack does open up if the gun is held with the trigger hand only. Thanks for all the replies and will look into your advice.

Some how I knocked my gun over. Well let's be honest I was rushing to get out the door and lent it against the table a duly knocked it over. I'll never learn! Anyhow what stock should I get? Custom or a straight factory replacement? And most importantly what's it gonna cost me? Wooden varmint stock btw. Many thanks Ben

+1 I use leupold qr mounts with weaver rail adaptors. If you have tactical/target turrets you can just return to the setting for the barrel you're changing to. I have had no need to check zero when changing barrel. HTH

Just to give my experience: I have a varmint with 22 and hmr barrels. I found the best way of mounting a scope was a dovetail to Weaver adapter (mine are two pieces that slide on and clamp up using using grub screws). With leupold qr mounts return to zero I have found to be remarkably accurate, from 22 to her it's 1 turn and two clicks up and two clicks left, bang on very time, I've stop checking zero now after barrel changes. With regards to the 22 shells getting jammed, I think that I would rather have an accurate barrel rather than get the chamber reamed out to stop the issue. Only have to fire the round into the ground if you have finished with the rifle or climbing fences. I would suggest getting the bore guide from Sinclair for the hmr, it does need shafting out sometimes and is impossible to do correctly without. Ben

hi guys, I have a Spanish .410, norica I think. Great little gun but I've always thought a pump action would be somewhat better for a brace of bunnies than a relatively slow bolt action. Always felt awkward trying to operate the bolt quickly which is no prob with a pump. They are pretty rare second hand though and fairly pricey (Remington) Ben Edit to say: anybody wanna sell me one!

hmmm, potters, I personally don't give them much trade. Some of the staff can be shockingly unhelpful. don't forget that you can always barter with a decent shop, I always take the first price they give me with a pinch of salt!

Err, bumpity bump! I too would like to know because I fancy a sako quad varmint with a decent scope and still be able to change barrels. Has anyone used a weaver rail adaptor and QD rings so that you can swap barrels easier? Cheers lads