Sco77w Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I'm Getting my safe this weekend. the wall I intend on fixing it too has plaster board fixed to it (dot and dabbed). do I need to cut around the safe and remove the plaster board and fix to the block wall or can I mount it on the plaster board? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 You only need to fill the area that the bolts go through to make it solid fixing,dry wall adhesive is best as it sets as hard as rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sco77w Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Thanks for that. I've even got some in the garage left over from a recent job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Coolhead Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 You need to ask your FEO. It's entirely at his discretion. Alongside the Home Office Guidance handbook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 You only need to fill the area that the bolts go through to make it solid fixing,dry wall adhesive is best as it sets as hard as rock. Can you explain that a little more ? are you meaning to fill the void behind the plaster board ? If so, how do you get anything behind it ? I've also got 'dot & dabbed' drywalls and have been told I've got to fix into the concrete block work that the drywall is 'dot & dabbed' onto Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J@mes Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I doubt you can fix it to the plasterboard, it will be a bit easy to rip off. You need to fit it flush to the blockwork so that nothing can be put behind it to lever it off really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sco77w Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 It doesn't seem that clear in the HO guidence handbook so it looks like a phone call tomorrow. Cutting away the plaster board isnt a issue but if I need not do it I won't Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSPUK Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I had a renter for 18 months and that was plaster and dab - I drilled a few 2" holes in plaster board behind where cabinet was going and using a morter squirty gun injected a runny mix of dab - start at bottom and work up next day I had a solid wall - when I left just polyfillered holes and painted - good as new.- and solid as a rock. - It might pay to use frame fixings or sleeve bolts rather than rawl bolts as they will break out if you tighten too hard. dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiderdude Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Surely, you can bolt through the drywall into the blockwork? If you can't do this then fitting a safe in 90% of new houses would prove complex to say the least. I have my FLO coming tomorrow so will know for certain as I live in a new house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sco77w Posted March 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 You need to fit it flush to the blockwork so that nothing can be put behind it to lever it off really. This is what I thought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Can you explain that a little more ? are you meaning to fill the void behind the plaster board ? If so, how do you get anything behind it ? I've also got 'dot & dabbed' drywalls and have been told I've got to fix into the concrete block work that the drywall is 'dot & dabbed' onto Cut away a section where the bolts are to go through and mass fill the void with adhesive,thus the cabinet will be clamped tight to a solid surface and the bolts have something to bite on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Thats me ****** then, Im in a rental property and cant see my landlady wanting me cutting holes in the wall The whole thing (no pun intended) seems awkward as they can possibly make it, just for the sake of it. Bloody gun cabinet is 5ft tall by a ft square, took two of us to get it up the stairs and into the built in cupboard in my bedroom, and that was when it was empty !! Now I gotta cut holes in the wall ?? *** !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spiderdude Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I'll update this after my FLO has visited tomorrow...Might just help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Your landlady will neve know as the adhesive is so smooth it will never show,all you have to do is run a screed of gyproc easy fill over it and paint,it will be totaly invisable ,i am an ex development manager and this would pass any inspection that i would have made and the company i worked for were VERY fussy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Your landlady will neve know as the adhesive is so smooth it will never show,all you have to do is run a screed of gyproc easy fill over it and paint,it will be totaly invisable ,i am an ex development manager and this would pass any inspection that i would have made and the company i worked for were VERY fussy Sorry if Im seeming thick but no building/diy experience to speak of, are you saying I cut out a small area around the bolt positions or an area the size of the back of the cabinet ? What's wrong with me drilling through the drywall and the little voids in the adhesive behind the panel into the blockwork which I'm told is concrete ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 It always makes me smile a little but if I came across a gun safe I wanted to remove (I am in the building trade) it would take me seconds no matter what it was bolted to. I fully agree that we should have them but I think they are pretty unsafe. Any road up, any decent gemmy can get behind a safe so cutting out dot and dab probably wont make it safer. I would be more tempted to cut a few small lengths of pipe the same length as the depth of plasterboard and simply bolt through them leaving the cabinet flush with the skim. Check with the officer but when he gives it his obligitory shake it will be as firm as any other cabinet hes seen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HW682 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) Do people cut away traditional plaster finish to sit the safe flush to the brickwork? You might think plaster is "solid", but if someone was determined it would only take a few seconds to hack away with the chisel end of a wrecking bar and get it behind the safe. (or one good tap with a club hammer) Surely that's exactly the same? Obviously it will depend on your FEO but most people just bolt through the plasterboard and into the blockwork. If drilling holes and filling etc makes you feel better then go for it. I don't think that in most cases it makes any practical difference. Edited March 10, 2011 by HW682 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Do people cut away traditional plaster finish to sit the safe flush to the brickwork? You might think plaster is "solid", but if someone was determined it would only take a few seconds to hack away with the chisel end of a wrecking bar and get it behind the safe. (or one good tap with a club hammer) Surely that's exactly the same? Obviously it will depend on your FEO but most people just bolt through the plasterboard and into the blockwork. If drilling holes and filling etc makes you feel better then go for it. I don't think that in most cases it makes any practical difference. If you bolt through pasterboard and there isnt a 'dab' someware very near you could quite possibly crack or break the whole sheet of board behind the cabinet, colapsing it onto the concrete block. Best to use some sort of spacer between cabinet and blockwork. SEE ABOVE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 Or just use the proper fixings I prefer sleeve anchors...... http://www.rigifix.com/index_files/Page489.htm http://apps.fischer.de/poc/default.aspx?page=product&sprache=EN&id=00044886&ekat=$EKAT-HK-EN&kat=$MART-HK-$MKAT-HK-$MPG-SCHWERSTAHL-$MZG-FH-$MUG-F629 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HW682 Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 If you bolt through pasterboard and there isnt a 'dab' someware very near you could quite possibly crack or break the whole sheet of board behind the cabinet, colapsing it onto the concrete block. Best to use some sort of spacer between cabinet and blockwork. SEE ABOVE If you have got no dabs at all behind the safe then yes it could. They don't have to be right next to the bolts though as the safe will spread the load out. Works for nearly everyone else. As I said if it makes you feel any better go for it, makes no difference to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berties Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I fitted mine in a wardrobe removed the floor boards put in noggins to line up with e base holes,used Rawle bolts in the rear but carefully opening them up as the internal Walls are leca 45 a insulated hollowed out block filled with insulation ,drilled holes to the side so I could fit it to the stud on the wardrobe wall ,so wood screws bottom and side ,replaced floor board tight to cabinet ,when the feo came I talked him through the fixings,he never even rattled it just made sure the cabinet was in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 (edited) Another thought, With the cabinet stood on the floor and pushed as close to the wall as possible the skirting board means higher up the cabinet is away from the wall by the thickness of the skirting, So I guess I need to remove the skirting in order to put the cabinet flat back against the drywall surface then drill through into the blockwork using the bolts that came with the cabinet Edited March 10, 2011 by TaxiDriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDAV Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I used a sheet of MDF same thickness as skirting to pack the wall out (cut to same size as cabinet) installed a mates above the skirting board FEO were happy with both (not sure he had seen the MDF filler before) and did mean drilling through skirting.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 I used a sheet of MDF same thickness as skirting to pack the wall out (cut to same size as cabinet) installed a mates above the skirting board FEO were happy with both (not sure he had seen the MDF filler before) and did mean drilling through skirting.... I think the only thing with that is I might have to get longer fixings to go through the extra depth of skirting/filler panel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hushpower Posted March 10, 2011 Report Share Posted March 10, 2011 my feo said it had to be coach bolted to the 2nd skin of brickwork, took about ten min Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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