vampire Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 Picked up my cz .223 today Have mounted the scope,leapers swat 3-9x50 ao with front paralux adj,got 40 rounds of 50grain winnies and was wondering what the ideal zero range is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 depends what you intend to shoot and at what ranges. 1" high at 100 yards works nicely (that's what i normally use) - that gives you point and shoot on a fox or small deer without thinking about holdover for anything between 25 and 200 yards roughly. Since i got my TDS4 reticle scope, it's bang on at 100 yards as it's got markers that roughly equate to 100 yards. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ColinF Posted May 11, 2011 Report Share Posted May 11, 2011 I zero my .223 to be 1" high at 100yds, which is spot on at about 190yds and about 3" low at 250yds using 50grn ballistic tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowz Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 So you've all got random unknown zeros?! 1" high @ 100yds could be anywhere Why not zero bang on 100yds, check 200yd zero and then see what actual drop you've got or just zero @ 200yds you could still point and shoot with 100 yd zero out to 200yds if you just checked the drop and allowed for it but at least you would have anactual zero and not a unknown random 1" high @ 100yds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 won't be far out though snowz, set it up like that then try a few shots at 200 just to check but in reality for foxing anything between 25 and 200 yards will be dead with that setup as it won't be 2" out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 There is no set answer here. Personally i zero all my c/f at 100 yds dead on then work out the trajectory above and below piont of aim for the ranges i will actually be shooting, some guns i dial in corrections some i hold off for (but having a proper dead on zero is a good point to start imo). through experimentation and maybee even a little tinkering on a balistic program you might want to fine tune a little. the only thing i personally 100% never do is set a zero x amount high and then start assuming. The nice things about a 100 yds zero is you never realy want to go under that distance for a zero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Grandalf Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) 1" high at 100 yards works nicely (that's what i normally use) - that gives you point and shoot on a fox or small deer without thinking about holdover for anything between 25 and 200 yards roughly. Nickbeardo got it right - for practcal purposes this is spot on. Thinking about holdover and all that will only make you muck up the shot and miss! Keep it simple! Edited May 12, 2011 by Grandalf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Snowz i don't understand where you get this random thing from - i know my rifle shoots 1" high at 100 yards, i also know it shoots bang on the zero at 172 yards (and also at 42 yards). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Snowz i don't understand where you get this random thing from - i know my rifle shoots 1" high at 100 yards, i also know it shoots bang on the zero at 172 yards (and also at 42 yards). He's been sucked into the other threads on this subject.... What's the DSC stalking test? Into a 4" circle at 100 yards? I am amazed at the crack shots on here who get het up with +/- 2" upto 200 yards and the wild claims that rounds are loose and flying randomly through the air into the next County because someone has zero'd 1" high at 100 yards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
foxbuster Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Im another that zero's 1" high at 100yrds-works for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowz Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Snowz i don't understand where you get this random thing from - i know my rifle shoots 1" high at 100 yards, i also know it shoots bang on the zero at 172 yards (and also at 42 yards). If you put your crosshair on a dot at 100yds and it shot 1" high then put a dot on @ 172 yds shot bang on the dot that's a 172yd zero then But I do understand what you mean by 1" high at 100yds gives you enough to shoot reasonable accurate out to normal foxing ranges of say 200yds all I was saying is if you just zeroed 1" high at 100yds and didn't check exactly where your zero was like you have @ 172 then you wouldn't know what your actual zero was Personally I have 100yd zero then at night I dial in to my actual known 200 yd zero if I'm on certain land where I know a fox could be out a fair bit or I just leave my 100yd zero and just point and shoot as my 95gr vmax @3400fps is pretty flat out to 200yds anyway Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowz Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 He's been sucked into the other threads on this subject.... What's the DSC stalking test? Into a 4" circle at 100 yards? You don't know me so don't assume I'm some idiot who gets sucked in by anything on these forums I talk from first hand experience not what others have put So wind your neck in and don't make assumption on people you don't know. And as for into 4" @ 100yds What's that got to do with zeroing that's to do with grouping rounds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kes Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 hi Zero is a personal thing but I zero at 100yds and know that makes the bullet I use, 2" low or 1 moa at 200 and -8.8" at 300. 400 yds its -22.6" for me its 4 , 11, 21 clicks. It just happens to suit me as most of my fox shots are 1-200 yds. Its then easier for me to judge come up at the target if I need a quick shot and a sure kill. Its whatever works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 i've never been a fan of dialling in, in the field - i'd rather judge holdoff by eye and not be fiddling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kes Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Nick, I usually dont dial in as its down 0-2 inches at my 'normal ranges for a quick accurate shot - just like you do. 150 yds, its 1" up from desired POI etc. If you are far enough from a target, with time, then 200-300 yds I dial it in. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snowz Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 It's not fiddling when your doing something precise, holding off is just guessing but both work for different situations Shooting for me is not just a job for land owners it's something I enjoy, I don't drink or smoke or waste what little spare money I have I put it all towards shooting and my 4x4 as long as I got fuel and rounds I'm a happy chappy lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Snowz i don't understand where you get this random thing from - i know my rifle shoots 1" high at 100 yards, i also know it shoots bang on the zero at 172 yards (and also at 42 yards). nickbeardo So you have a 172 yard zero which experience has shown you is 1" high at 100 yards! I don't understand all this 1" high zero business at all. ZERO is zero, it isn't 1" from anything! What you are saying is I have a 172 yards zero with X ammo and I know that shoots 1" high at 100 yards, so to check my 172 yard zero, I fire at 100 yards and if it is 1" high then it's ok. Fine, that is a tried and tested way of zeroing at any given distance by historically doing your homework and testing! ! Change the ammo to a different weight or even type and it probably wont be fine. Whether anyone considers that good enough for their chosen task is up to them! I don't, I have enough variables brought on by the weakest link in the equation...ME, so I like to know as accurately as possible everything else! But that is a method I have used in the past, set your required zero distance and ZERO AT THAT DISTANCE, when you are happy with the results you can go back to 150-100-75 yards...whatever you want, and check the impact point there, having done this you can now pretty reliably check your required zero by shooting at a much closer distance, BUT, only with the same ammo! Change ammo and you have to start all over again! ATB! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beardo Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 i just use the target below http://www.mytargets.com/target107varmint.pdf with a quick check on a ballistic table first - then double check in the field to see where it shoots are various ranges. i'm sure even a novice will appreciate that changing ammo weight/brand etc. will affect POI. i just know that if i'm shooting a fox or deer i can point at it and shoot it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mungler Posted May 12, 2011 Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 (edited) You don't know me so don't assume I'm some idiot who gets sucked in by anything on these forums I talk from first hand experience not what others have put So wind your neck in and don't make assumption on people you don't know. And as for into 4" @ 100yds What's that got to do with zeroing that's to do with grouping rounds Neck duly wound in I'm still amazed at how het up people get with +/- 2" over distances upto 200 yards when "out and about" and "in the field". Re: the 4" circle it's the accepted kill zone isn't it? If you zero at 1" high isn't the +/- spread such that if you aim at the centre of the circle you will always stay within the circle for any distance between 50 and 200 yards and without any thought, adjustment, dialing etc - it's idiot proof. Just to give it a bit of perspective, the top of a standard pint class is a gnats chuff under 4" in diameter. Edited May 12, 2011 by Mungler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 12, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2011 Thanks for answering my question on zeroing,i will put up a target at 100 yrds and get 1" high group for flat shooting 25-200 yrds,which is fantastic Thanks again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Neck duly wound in I'm still amazed at how het up people get with +/- 2" over distances upto 200 yards when "out and about" and "in the field". Re: the 4" circle it's the accepted kill zone isn't it? If you zero at 1" high isn't the +/- spread such that if you aim at the centre of the circle you will always stay within the circle for any distance between 50 and 200 yards and without any thought, adjustment, dialing etc - it's idiot proof. Just to give it a bit of perspective, the top of a standard pint class is a gnats chuff under 4" in diameter. nothing is idot proof its all about the degree of idoit you need to be to foul it up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 i've never been a fan of dialling in, in the field - i'd rather judge holdoff by eye and not be fiddling. too right the whole concept of an inch high at 100 with a .22cf is to effectively be flat to 200 yards. Ok not completely flat but well within acceptable kill zones for foxes, Dialling in on foxes at night is for people who don't shoot many foxes as ours don't wait for you to range them. Then get your little computer out make the calculation count the clicks and then by the time you're ready they are nearly in the next county You know put the cross hairs on the boiler room and its job done as long as you don't pull it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wymberley Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Now that the OP is happy, could we digress a tad? I agree with al4x and nick and mainly because my normal ranges mean little or no holdover. For the guys who "dial in", how much would you expect to pay for a scope to ensure repeatability and is it necessary to to frequent checks to ensure that the accuracy is maintained. I ask because I may just have to step outside of my comfort zone shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wildfowler.250 Posted May 13, 2011 Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Mind to put the target close first and then move it back once you've got the gun on paper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2011 Mind to put the target close first and then move it back once you've got the gun on paper Hi mate,no probs,i will set it up at 50 yrds then work it back out to 100 yrds Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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