Gordon R Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 I vaguely remember seeing a thread about putting artificial grain on wood, by using Indian ink. I have just got a .410 Harrington and Richardson for my grandson. The wood might well be Beech - doesn't look like walnut and is very plain. Just wanted to make it look a bit better. Any advice welcome. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TaxiDriver Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 There used to be kits available for putting woodgrain into paint finishes on things like kitchen units/doors using a special roller, I've also seem something similar used to create the Wood panel look on some classic american cars. Suspect the same idea would work on a gun stock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bloke Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Is this any help? linky Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 (edited) I know exactly what you mean Gordon. I've got a 30+ year old Miroku 800 SW and the stock needs a bit of TLC. I've always oiled my own stocks either replacing an existing finish or when I've had a stock made from 'the white', but they've always been a nice piece of wood and haven't needed enhancing. I'd heard a little extra figure to the wood could be introduced by using a permanent marker pen. However, I'm loathe to attack it without being certain about how to go about it. I've spoken to a stocker mate and he's said the way to do it is get the stock back to bare wood first. He said to use a fine brush and Windsor & Newton black ink from a place like Hobbycraft. Before leaping in try first on a piece of scrap wood. Dampen the stock and gently follow the lines of the existing grain with the brush the outside edges of the line will feather because of the dampness and thats OK. He said best to look at some pictures of grain in wood to see how differently the grain changes. Don't go overboard, better a little figure than too much as it won't look realistic. Put the stock aside to allow the ink to dry and then add any stain required and oil it. He said if it's a disaster then flood the wood with water to flush it out and then finely rub it down again to remove any surface ink. I'll let you go first Edited October 7, 2011 by PhilR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 There was a thread on here a year or so ago about gentle burning the wood to tiger strip it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 I bought some Indian Ink yesterday and had a junior go. It looked awful at first - looks better with a couple of coats of dye. I also had a very detailed and welcome PM about tiger striping using heat. I have also done this. The grain certainly comes up and on a better piece of wood, I would recommend wholeheartedly. The tiger striping is masked quite a lot by the dye. It is a cheap gun, so it doesn't really matter. I have done a few adjustable stocks, but I think wood improvement is just beyond me at present. :lol: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Can you put up a pic to show us your handiwork, I'd be very interested to see it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 I will see how it turns out after application of Tru-oil. No photo = shame. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 No need to be modest mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Yellow Bear Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Scumble and wood graining were two of the techniques taught at school in my days at a technical school- years since I have done it - must try to remember how. It was, however done with a fairly liquid brown paint using a flitch (thin but wide flat ended brush, a wide toothed comb like implement, and a dry long floppy brush IRC. D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbaz Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 There was a thread on here a year or so ago about gentle burning the wood to tiger strip it. Hi I refinished an Airsporter years ago using a butane soldering gun, it was like a pen that was filled from a tin of the lighter fuel but had a very thin, pointed flame, it turned out smashing but I sold it on and didn't get a pic of it John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 8, 2011 Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Here's a link to a website that has some beautiful stock blanks http://www.oldtreegunblanks.com/featuredblanks.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 8, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 8, 2011 Phil - not being modest. I have done a few adjustable stocks - reasonably proud of them. Putting grain on a piece of wood is one of the black arts which I have not mastered. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Phil - not too happy with my efforts, but it is my first one. It's only my grandson's and has to have the stock cut down yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beretta Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 ive seen worse new stocks looks a good job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 15, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 When I rubbed the stock down to make the "grain" less harsh, a lot disappeared. I am sure someone with a bit of talent could do it easily - it is just not me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilR Posted October 15, 2011 Report Share Posted October 15, 2011 Hi Gordon, You've probably improved it no end over the original. Don't forget our worst critic is ourselves. I bet your grandson thinks his granddad is brilliant for smartening up his gun for him Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Well where to start……………….. Wood graining takes about then years to perfect and is indeed a complicated process. The kits that came out several years ago had a simple rocker and comb in them and to be honest a pro would have had a hard time making a good job out of them. The first thing to remember is you won’t get a decent job with a one coat method. Good graining is a process of overlaying coats of oily pigments and manipulating them to the shapes required. The medium (guilp) is usually a pigment mixed with slow drying oils and powder to give the required body. This can be bought without colour or with stains added off the shelf. The most popular make is Scumble Oil. Scumble oil is generally too heavy to use out of the can and is thinned with turpentine and clear oil until the required viscosity and shade are obtained. This only comes with practice and each individual application requires its own different mix. The good news is it takes at least 12 hours to dry so it is very easily wiped off and re started (acrylic alternatives are pants). The way it works requires the surface to be perfectly smooth and none absorbent but mat. If you were graining a front door the whole thing would be based out in an oil based undercoat in the colour of the lightest part of the wood chosen. Oak is mustard orange, mahogany is a dusty pink. It is taken that you have a perfect surface. Years ago the traditional grainer would apply coats of undercoat (ground) sanding smooth with finer and finer papers until the last coat was rubbed out with fullers earth, now that’s smooth. On a stock I would take down to bare timber and stain with a light spirit stain, remember most commercial stains are not for hard wood but to make soft wood the same colour as a hardwood, (they are very dark). Stain with the biggest brush you have, don’t apply with a rag. The idea is if you use small applicators you are double and triple coating some areas and only hitting some areas once as the brush or rag stroke overlaps. The best way is lots and fast. Lash it on as fast as possible so it is literally dripping all over the garage floor and up your arms (you get the idea) and as soon as its all covered take a very large rag and wipe it all off again. Staining with the correct colour for the wood enhances the grain by sucking lots into the sap wood so it goes darker and absorbing a little into the grain wood so it stays lighter. It’s not about obliterating everything in site with a blood red dye. If you can mix a light enough stain using several variations of stain then once staining is over and it’s not dark enough, the process can be repeated. Once varnished several times and rubbed back to perfection, the first guilp can be applied. Again mix it to the correct colour by eye. Only you can decide what looks good with the original grain. Apply over one side of the stock and smooth out by repeatedly crows nesting with a semidried brish until the basket weave pattern created is even in weight and colour and depth etc. Then............... Is anyone still reading or even interested???????? My fingers are starting to ache! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
-Mongrel- Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Well you've got to carry on now, even if just as a future reference piece! Some pics would be good too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted October 21, 2011 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 You have my attention. :yes: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Hang on then Ill get a beer........................ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 come on don't stop this very interesting. Far to difficult for me to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Cant post a photo............ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 (edited) Ok thats better Right lets take the walnut grain. The finish with the silvers of tiger stripe or to be pedantic the half tiger stripe abutted to an arched crotch also known as the Butty figure. THE BUTTY FIGURE I doubt oak or ash would ever be used for a gun stock so I will endeavour to explain the intricacies of the perfect, easyish and least tools to buy method of the butty figure. Ah tools. Yes you will need some bits and bobs. I have a badger softner. Well done I hear you say. Well its a wide and long brisled paint brush made of badger hair and its well, not put in paint. They are not essential, you could use a dry, soft paint brush but if you spent about £20 on the real deal it makes a better job. A rag is a must. Cotton is good and old is better. An old shirt or bed sheet is perfect and the least lint that comes off it the better. A piece of card. Kellogs make the best and deliver corn flakes in it. A good quality sable, artists paint brush. Spend the rent money on this and get a decent sized one. An expensive one will be that well built you will be able to paint a line as thin as a ball point or as wide as your finger. Trust me the ones in the garden centre next to the card making punches are junk. Cant upload??? Edited October 21, 2011 by Acid House Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Acid House Posted October 21, 2011 Report Share Posted October 21, 2011 Does that work???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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