How to clean a semi - auto ?

[person22]

hi all,

everytime i use my semi i always take it apart and clean the barrell as i would my side by side but the barrell aside is there anything you can do for the chamber and inside workings?

thanks in advance

[sussex lad]

If i remember right you have a berreta semi this link to the manuals will tell you all you need to know

http://www.again.net/~steve/page7b.htm

If doesnt work pm me and i will send you a copy of mine

[person22]

yeah thats right mate, its a model a. 301 which isnt there, ill try and dig out the manual which came with it

[Mungler]

If i remember right you have a berreta semi this link to the manuals will tell you all you need to know

http://www.again.net/~steve/page7b.htm

If doesnt work pm me and i will send you a copy of mine

 

 

Nice one. Handy little website that.

 

I spent 3 hours cleaning guns last Sunday. I have a new rule for myself which is to only use one gun a weekend (this means the AL391 spends more time in the cabinet because cleaning it is a real PITA) and anyone that uses one of my guns has to clean the ******* thing.

[dunganick]

The 391 hardly needs any cleaning at all, the barrels are chrome bored so wont erode as long as its not left for months and months without fireing, the action is low maintainance, those who say it requires cleaning after every outing often havent tried not cleaning it.

 

My dad didnt clean his 391 since he bought it a year and 3/4 ago, when we cleaned it about 2 months back, and it was still cycling everything, the barrels wernt pitted it was just a bit grubby. We will probably leave it another year before we clean it again. Its a semi auto so its a work horse.

 

My dads 302 was the same. Functioned flawlessly hardly ever cleaned it, only thing to note is that there is a part of the gun (the valve type part.... you will know what i mean) which the manual actually stated on my dads model not to clean, the build up of dirt from the gases helped it get a good seal and cycle well.

[Mungler]

The 391 hardly needs any cleaning at all, the barrels are chrome bored so wont erode as long as its not left for months and months without fireing, the action is low maintainance, those who say it requires cleaning after every outing often havent tried not cleaning it.

 

My dad didnt clean his 391 since he bought it a year and 3/4 ago, when we cleaned it about 2 months back, and it was still cycling everything, the barrels wernt pitted it was just a bit grubby. We will probably leave it another year before we clean it again. Its a semi auto so its a work horse.

 

My dads 302 was the same. Functioned flawlessly hardly ever cleaned it, only thing to note is that there is a part of the gun (the valve type part.... you will know what i mean) which the manual actually stated on my dads model not to clean, the build up of dirt from the gases helped it get a good seal and cycle well.

 

 

Now's that's the sort of information that worth knowing.

 

How long can leave cleaning my o/u?

[dunganick]

if its got chrome bores and you fire it every now and then i wouldnt bother. Just loosen and re-tighten the chokes to make sure they dont become stuck, give the action a drop of oil every now and then. If you get it wet then it will want a strip down, dry and re oiling.

 

This is the way my dad has treated his mk70 for the past 3 1/2 yrs and apart from a slightly pitted bottom firing pin (mk70 trade mark ) it is as new and functioning flawlessly.

 

Just give the barrels a clean when you can be bothered, if they are getting regular use and are chrome bored they really wont get pitted very quickly, although if your going to leave it month after month without firing or cleaning they will eventually pit.

[Frank]

My Beretta A 304 semi, gets a clean, but i dont oil the bore inside. I havent used it in 3 months, has no piting whats so ever in it.

 

Frank.

 

if its got chrome bores and you fire it every now and then i wouldnt bother. Just loosen and re-tighten the chokes to make sure they dont become stuck, give the action a drop of oil every now and then. If you get it wet then it will want a strip down, dry and re oiling.

 

This is the way my dad has treated his mk70 for the past 3 1/2 yrs and apart from a slightly pitted bottom firing pin (mk70 trade mark ) it is as new and functioning flawlessly.

 

Just give the barrels a clean when you can be bothered, if they are getting regular use and are chrome bored they really wont get pitted very quickly, although if your going to leave it month after month without firing or cleaning they will eventually pit.

 

Same goes for centerfire rifles, but only if it is getting used every other day.

[MC]

How long can leave cleaning my o/u?

 

Andy,

 

I clean mine every time I use it, but it takes a few minutes, buy yourself a Claymate rod, it is the one with the wooly mop on the entire length.

 

A couple of times through each barrel and it's clean. I then wipe the action and forend with a decnt rag and job done. A tiny spot of oil on the hinge pins when I put it together and lock it away.

 

My Extrema gets the same treatment if I have been clay shooting with it, If I have been wildfowling then it takes a little longer and plenty of duck oil.

 

Cheers

 

Martin

[Mungler]

How long can leave cleaning my o/u?

 

Andy,

 

I clean mine every time I use it, but it takes a few minutes, buy yourself a Claymate rod, it is the one with the wooly mop on the entire length.

 

A couple of times through each barrel and it's clean. I then wipe the action and forend with a decnt rag and job done. A tiny spot of oil on the hinge pins when I put it together and lock it away.

 

My Extrema gets the same treatment if I have been clay shooting with it, If I have been wildfowling then it takes a little longer and plenty of duck oil.

 

Cheers

 

Martin

 

 

 

I looked for "clay mate" on ebay and this is all I got:

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-x-CLAY-MATE-FELIX-...1QQcmdZViewItem

 

Where's the best place to buy?

 

Andy

[MC]

Andy,

 

This one is similar

 

http://www.avalon-shop.co.uk/shop/index.ph...products_id=918

 

 

This is the one, about the same price as I paid, Mine came from Essex Shooting School at Epping

 

 

http://www.ukhunting.com/shopcart/framesho....asp?Prodid=F70

 

Cheers

 

Martin

[Mungler]

Andy,

 

This one is similar

 

http://www.avalon-shop.co.uk/shop/index.ph...products_id=918

 

 

This is the one, about the same price as I paid, Mine came from Essex Shooting School at Epping

 

 

http://www.ukhunting.com/shopcart/framesho....asp?Prodid=F70

 

Cheers

 

Martin

 

 

Ta very muchly

[Zapp]

I clean my 391 thoroughly every time I use it, but it is purely a matter of preference. I know a few guys who never clean theirs, and they work perfectly. I just like to be able to rib them for being grubby gets!

[pavman]

I hand my Raptor to the eldest lad he is a weapons tech in the RAF, always comes back better than when I handed it over, I know its cheating but heck he is the expert

[the last engineer]

im with Nick on this one, my auto's dont get cleaned, they will when they fail, if it anit broke dont fix it, as to the o/u's twice a year, once at the begining of the season and 3/4 through for a check up .

 

 

Martin

[deadeye]

i always wipe my guns down with a soft cloth and some quality gun oil or clp breakfree to prevent the exterior steel and metal parts from rusting due to handling or humidity. my lifelong habit is that if my guns get caught in some rain while out shooting i will thoroughly strip them down when i get home and i will diligently clean them inside out. if i am shooting on a nice day and know that i will be back out shooting in 2 or 3 days i will simply wipe them down. if i am going to put them up for more that a week or two, or longer, i will thoroughly clean my guns, both o/u's and semi autos. my beretta o/u can be cleaned thoroughly in about 20 to 30 minutes. my al391 semi can be thoroughly cleaned in about 45 minute to one hour.

 

p.s. from experience i would like to point out one trouble spot on a beretta al391. the magizine cap(the cap that screws off to remove the forearm and barrel) if not thoroughly cleaned on the inside and lubed will rust.

this is no bullshi#@. just a couple of minutes cleaning it and lubing it will prevent this. i agree that the chrome barrels on a beretta are nice and it really helps with maint. on the guns.

[deadeye]

the original question is how to clean a semi auto. not trying to be a know it all, but i will describe my method for cleaning an al391. typically my gun may have 750 to 1000 rounds fire through it between thorough cleanings so it is filthy dirty. here is my method.

 

i keep a large plastic tool box in my truck with all my cleaning gear in that box a arms length away.

i have precut cloth patches for a 12 bore handy

i take the gun thoroughly apart including removing the trigger assembly and bolt assembly ( i use a wooden golf tee and my pocket knife for a hammer to knock out the receiver pins. the wooden tee can't harm the aluminum receiver). if my gun gets wet or if it has debris from the field in the magazine tube i take the magazine spring out as well (when needed). i unscrew the choke and remove it because i want to clean and lubricate the threads for the choke in my barrel---i would not want rust and corrosion there as it would fu#@ up the barrel. i spray bore cleaner down my barrel ( i usually do this outside weather permitting). i then clean the barrel with a brass brush. i then clean the barrel using clean patches. i then lubricate the barrel with a quality gun oil, clp, or rem-oil, a and then clean the bore of excess oil with more patches and a ram rod. i use a tooth brush and clp on and clean rags to clean the rest of the gun to military standards. i lubricate the threads on the choke to prevent rust and clean and lub the magazine cap. the piston on a 390/391 gets really dirty. you can clean it with a gun solvent and tooth brush and have found q tips and pipe cleaners helpful. i make an effort to lube my gun and then wipe off all excess oil. when i re-install the bolt assembly i will lightly lubricate the track that the bolt moves back and forth on. i do not over-oil my gun.

 

i know men that i shoot with who use the beretta 390/391 guns for various types of shooting and several that i know do not hardly ever clean their guns. you can open the bolt and look at the crud and gunk in there and it is amazing the the guns work at all---yet they do work and work quite well. they are about as fool proof as a semi can get.

personally, i just can't let mine go like that. it was drilled in me early as a boy and later in the army to take care of my firearm. i have several guns that i have had from my youth (and i am now 55) and they have been used in all kinds of weather and they show wear and have received through use abrasions etc, but there is no rust on them.

[Mungler]

Deadeye,

 

I reckon you should do a photo "how to strip and clean an AL391". I have always stopped short of messing with the trigger assembly and receiver pins for fear of not getting it back together again. The manual isn't that much help either.

[deadeye]

Deadeye,

 

I reckon you should do a photo "how to strip and clean an AL391". I have always stopped short of messing with the trigger assembly and receiver pins for fear of not getting it back together again. The manual isn't that much help either.

 

it is easy to do. if i can do it---anybody can. the steps are as follows:

 

1-remove the barrel and forearm

2-remove the little gas piston that goes up and down on the stem on the magazine tube

3-close the bolt gently -- let it down gently to keep from damaging the receiver

4-pull out the little lever that you pull the bolt back with. they usually pull out with not alot of trouble.

if it is difficult --- i take an old shoe lace or a piece of nylon cord and wrap it around and pull so as to

gain some leverage. once that is out the bolt and the black piston that carries the bolt back and forth will side out easily.

5-i use a wooden golf tee and some small hammer ( i carry a swiss army knife and open the blade and hold it by the blade and use the handle as a little hammer. put the sharp end of the wooden golf tee on the receiver pin and gently tap the pin rignt out. its easy and if you use a wooden golf tee you will ding up or scratch up either the steel pins or the aluminum receiver. trust me--they will come right out without much work at all.

6-the trigger assembly should be cocked( the hammer all the way back). put the gun on safety so that the

hammer will not fall while you are taking the trigger assemby out.

7-the trigger assembly is tucked into the receiver just behind the trigger guard.

8-just rock it from fore to aft with some authority. if it has never been removed if may be stuck alittle bit but it will come out.

9-you may need to push the button on the side of the receiver(the button used to shut the bolt) in order to get it all the way out.

10. to remove the magazine spring is very easy. up at the end where the little gas piston slides up and down on what looks like a little short rod or bolt---just below that on the magazine tube you will see a very small push pin. push that in and unscrew the little rod that the piston travels on. be careful because it is under pressure by virtue of the magazine spring---don't put your eye out. it unscrews easy as pie.

 

thats it.

 

 

p.s. i have personally found it easier to reinstall the bolt back into the receiver first before putting the trigger assemby back in because you have to hit the right spot where the plunger will make contact with the recoil spring in the butt stock. then put the trigger assemby back in. you can do it both ways --- i have just found this to be easier.

[Mungler]

Deadeye,

 

I reckon you should do a photo "how to strip and clean an AL391". I have always stopped short of messing with the trigger assembly and receiver pins for fear of not getting it back together again. The manual isn't that much help either.

 

it is easy to do. if i can do it---anybody can. the steps are as follows:

 

1-remove the barrel and forearm

2-remove the little gas piston that goes up and down on the stem on the magazine tube

3-close the bolt gently -- let it down gently to keep from damaging the receiver

4-pull out the little lever that you pull the bolt back with. they usually pull out with not alot of trouble.

if it is difficult --- i take an old shoe lace or a piece of nylon cord and wrap it around and pull so as to

gain some leverage. once that is out the bolt and the black piston that carries the bolt back and forth will side out easily.

5-i use a wooden golf tee and some small hammer ( i carry a swiss army knife and open the blade and hold it by the blade and use the handle as a little hammer. put the sharp end of the wooden golf tee on the receiver pin and gently tap the pin rignt out. its easy and if you use a wooden golf tee you will ding up or scratch up either the steel pins or the aluminum receiver. trust me--they will come right out without much work at all.

6-the trigger assembly should be cocked( the hammer all the way back). put the gun on safety so that the

hammer will not fall while you are taking the trigger assemby out.

7-the trigger assembly is tucked into the receiver just behind the trigger guard.

8-just rock it from fore to aft with some authority. if it has never been removed if may be stuck alittle bit but it will come out.

9-you may need to push the button on the side of the receiver(the button used to shut the bolt) in order to get it all the way out.

10. to remove the magazine spring is very easy. up at the end where the little gas piston slides up and down on what looks like a little short rod or bolt---just below that on the magazine tube you will see a very small push pin. push that in and unscrew the little rod that the piston travels on. be careful because it is under pressure by virtue of the magazine spring---don't put your eye out. it unscrews easy as pie.

 

thats it.

 

 

p.s. i have personally found it easier to reinstall the bolt back into the receiver first before putting the trigger assemby back in because you have to hit the right spot where the plunger will make contact with the recoil spring in the butt stock. then put the trigger assemby back in. you can do it both ways --- i have just found this to be easier.

 

 

Thanks for that - I can tell you might have done that once or twice before.

 

I bottle out at No. 5 but will give the rest a go this Sunday.

 

Mung

[the last engineer]

good post Deadeye, should be easy enough for guys to follow, though mine still has not needed it yet .

deadnuts with the mag cap as well, myself i use a dry lube on both threads this will not allow any seizing , molycoat again works a charm in all my guns

 

 

Martin

[bertie]

Good post deadeye. Basicaly there straight forward once you know how.

 

To all you others that dont keep your guns clean and well oiled, well dont come crying and blameing your guns when they break and cost you all money! It will serve you all right. I know a man who bought a remmi semi auto, it was a lovely and spotless gun. Well 6 month later when it started jamming as it was unclean he had to take it to a gunsmith who charged a fortune and had to flogg the barrel off with a mallet as it had rusted on! You have been warned!

[dunganick]

Good post deadeye. Basicaly there straight forward once you know how.

 

To all you others that dont keep your guns clean and well oiled, well dont come crying and blameing your guns when they break and cost you all money! It will serve you all right. I know a man who bought a remmi semi auto, it was a lovely and spotless gun. Well 6 month later when it started jamming as it was unclean he had to take it to a gunsmith who charged a fortune and had to flogg the barrel off with a mallet as it had rusted on! You have been warned!

 

thats a remi 1100 for you

 

i didnt say we dont oil it, we just dont clean the barrel.

 

If it rains then i will strip and oil the whole thing, but i wont clean the barrel or mechanism.

 

So far it hasnt gone wrong, with my dads now sold beretta 302 which survived about 20 years with this treatment (maybe 1 clean every 1.5 yrs) and that was always functioning as well as it did the first day he got it.

 

The current 391 has been treated in the same way and looks none the worse for it. We have had 2 jams with it ever and on the 1st occasion it was a hard primer and a failure to detinate and the 2nd time it was a training load which slipped in. And the gun wont cycle loads that light no matter how clean it is (we tried it with them imediatly after its clean a few months back)

 

But each to their own, if regular cleaning gives you confidence in your gun so beit, at the end of the day it only matters that you are happy with YOUR gun.

[kirky640]

to much cleaning takes up to much drinking time !! lol :(

[arjimlad]

Thanks for posting all this chaps.

 

I've got a lovely Beretta 302.

 

It gets cleaned after every trip unless I am using it again within 7 days, in which case, it's just a wipe over with an oily rag to remove finger marks. I take the trigger mech out about every fifth time of cleaning it and clean that with a toothbrush. I have never removed the magazine spring, but I'll have a go at that next time now I know how.

 

One thing I found useful was a bottle of alloy wheel cleaner which cleaned the piston up nicely. I only did this once when I acquired the gun to remove built-up crud.