Big_Paulie Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Guys, I was hoping for a bit of advice please: Firstly, which .243 rifle would you buy? It's got to be suitable for deer and fox. Ideally available with a synthetic stock and a heavy barrell. I don't really have a budget in mind, I'm more intererested in getting the right rifle the first time round. Secondly, I've asked for 100 to buy and 150 to hold, does that sound about right? Thanks Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 why do you want a heavy barrel? if you are going to carry it about much then a light rifle is so much nicer. I went for a finlight in .243 as I'd got the money at the time and I wanted a gun I wouldn't want to change, so far not regretted it one bit. The T3's always seem to shoot well but try first, the ammo hold amount sounds fine if you are using factory ammo but low if you want to reload. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Guys, I was hoping for a bit of advice please: Firstly, which .243 rifle would you buy? It's got to be suitable for deer and fox. Ideally available with a synthetic stock and a heavy barrell. I don't really have a budget in mind, I'm more intererested in getting the right rifle the first time round. Secondly, I've asked for 100 to buy and 150 to hold, does that sound about right? Thanks Paul Theres a lot of abswers to this so you might need to suggest a budjet. Sythetic stock also has many connotations, big difference in a Mc Millan and a std factory piece of injection molded junk if its a new sub £1500 gun your after i should go for a laminate as they are actually more stable than plasic bendy stocks and take bedding better Heavy tubes are not generally a requirement for stalking and only offer the slightest edge on long range foxes. with the .243" you need 20" plus barrel, so add a moddy and you have an unweildy gun to shoot off hand- though a cracker for set up and stay tactics 300 to buy and 200 to keep is quite normal, 500 to buy 600 to keep about the highest most areas allow, some areas might not even grant to what you suggest though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gerry31 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 As above take care when choosing a heavy barrel I bought a remy 700 vssl in 22:250 and once you had fitted the scope the pod a can ect I couldn't carry the bloody thing it weighed 22 pound I know that dosnt sound much but trust me you can't carry it very far Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frenchieboy Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 I have to agree with the previous posts mate! I am not sure that a heavy barrel is the best option. If you are going to be carrying the rifle about a lot you will be surprised at how heavy it might start to feel after a few hours of walking. As for which choice of rifle that really is down to personal preference, my suggestion would be to pick up and try a few to see how they feel in your hands before making a final decision. Any reasonable gun shop would let you do that before you buy. As for the ammunition quota, that sounds fine mate. Good luck in making your final decision! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tiger955i Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 I agree with Kent re the synthetic stock. I had an RWS Titan6 in .243 with a synthetic stock which had so much flex that when it had a mod on the barrel was actually resting on the forend. Good rifle other than that though. Also it did not really fit me that well but did not realise by how much until I started using it. So as mentioned above try it out if you can. I wound up getting a Sako 85 which fits like a glove. Good luck in your search. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer1 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 (edited) I agree about the heavy barrel but why is a heavy barrel any more accurate than a sporter/fluted etc. at range? That's not really an issue is it? The heavy barrel just dissipates heat better really, I've never seen any solid test to prove a heavy barrel is any more accurate, and you'd have to be firing shot after shot for it to make any difference which just doesn't really happen often here - maybe in the usa shooting prarie dogs but I can't think of a time I've fired more than 3 shots in quick succession ever and that was only once at a fox with cubs! Also a composite stock can be excellent as standard depending on the gun - you say budget is not an issue - I would say there are no problems at all with sauer or blaser composites as they are - just be mindful if you want to fit a bipod as this can be problematic on the sauer due to the design and where they put the sling swivel.. On the heavy barrel - try getting a 22lb lump and belly crawling through long grass or walking a few miles with it on your shoulder and you'll soon see why they are not that popular as stalking rifles. As has been mentioned the tikka's and sako's seem to be great out if the box too...it's really a case of buying on asthetics and feel now as most rifles are accurate without messing with them at all. Regards, Gixer Edit to add - I should mention the components of the rifle will also depend on what you do - for example an a-tec light weight mod is great for stalking but no good if you are doing range shooting, same with bipods - great for stationary shots but try untangling long grass or branches from one when sneaking up on something and it can be a pain! You can tart a rifle up with lots of stuff (I have in the past ) but a lot of it you will realise just isn't needed... Edited August 2, 2012 by gixer1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 I agree about the heavy barrel but why is a heavy barrel any more accurate than a sporter/fluted etc. at range? That's not really an issue is it? The heavy barrel just dissipates heat better really, I've never seen any solid test to prove a heavy barrel is any more accurate, and you'd have to be firing shot after shot for it to make any difference which just doesn't really happen often here - maybe in the usa shooting prarie dogs but I can't think of a time I've fired more than 3 shots in quick succession ever and that was only once at a fox with cubs! Also a composite stock can be excellent as standard depending on the gun - you say budget is not an issue - I would say there are no problems at all with sauer or blaser composites as they are - just be mindful if you want to fit a bipod as this can be problematic on the sauer due to the design and where they put the sling swivel.. On the heavy barrel - try getting a 22lb lump and belly crawling through long grass or walking a few miles with it on your shoulder and you'll soon see why they are not that popular as stalking rifles. As has been mentioned the tikka's and sako's seem to be great out if the box too...it's really a case of buying on asthetics and feel now as most rifles are accurate without messing with them at all. Regards, Gixer Edit to add - I should mention the components of the rifle will also depend on what you do - for example an a-tec light weight mod is great for stalking but no good if you are doing range shooting, same with bipods - great for stationary shots but try untangling long grass or branches from one when sneaking up on something and it can be a pain! You can tart a rifle up with lots of stuff (I have in the past ) but a lot of it you will realise just isn't needed... a heavy barrel is more accurate than a light one, not by anything to matter to the stalker its just a fact of flatter harmonics. Heat up wise it is always going to shoot better, my lightweight .243 shoots way better doing two shots and cooling than it does on three and five or ten forget it! but .22 target rifles don't heat up at all- they still have heavy tubes for the ridgidity So yeah they do shoot better but not so as it matters to a stalker. Weight is your friend if your one of those static deer shooters but heck i aint carrying a heavy gun on the hill all day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer1 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 (edited) a heavy barrel is more accurate than a light one, not by anything to matter to the stalker its just a fact of flatter harmonics. Heat up wise it is always going to shoot better, my lightweight .243 shoots way better doing two shots and cooling than it does on three and five or ten forget it! but .22 target rifles don't heat up at all- they still have heavy tubes for the ridgidity So yeah they do shoot better but not so as it matters to a stalker. Weight is your friend if your one of those static deer shooters but heck i aint carrying a heavy gun on the hill all day I have never seen or read anything that points towards the harmonics having a single thing to do with it in the case of a heavy barrel - maybe weight to reduce recoil or the heat dissipation on long shot strings but again - a cold shot from either should not have a thing to do with it - harmonics can be ruined by both rigidity and flexibility if either are to the extreme. Show me a scientific test on this (not just opinions) - you won't find any other than in reference to the heat thing. Why anyone buys a heavy barrel rifle in the uk for the common types of shooting is beyond me! Regards, Gixer Edited August 2, 2012 by gixer1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 My T3 is a heavy barrelled varminter.I use it for fox and roe.When lamping I'm in a vehicle most of the time,and when stalking the rifle is slung.We don't do any hill stalking so for me the excess weight isn't an issue.I suppose it all depends what sort of terrain you'll be negotiating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 (edited) I have never seen or read anything that points towards the harmonics having a single thing to do with it in the case of a heavy barrel - maybe weight to reduce recoil or the heat dissipation on long shot strings but again - a cold shot from either should not have a thing to do with it - harmonics can be ruined by both rigidity and flexibility if either are to the extreme. Show me a scientific test on this (not just opinions) - you won't find any other than in reference to the heat thing. Why anyone buys a heavy barrel rifle in the uk for the common types of shooting is beyond me! Regards, Gixer Don't be daft, you cannot test them side by side as the two bores and chambers etc. will always perform to different stds. No need though look at .22 lr target rifles - heavy barrels yet no heat up issues- bingo! (especially in 25 mtr prone - how long can it possibly take to fire a shot!) i do agree BTW for most of us they aint of any extra use, 1/4 MOA even dont make any odds either way and the advantage is often smaller. You certainly need to be beyond 300+ but like i say weight can help make the shot when rested, this is the reason for weight restiction in competition Edited August 2, 2012 by kent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 just upped my ammo for my swede, i can only buy norma in batches of 200, finding a stockist is awkward around here, so ordering in bulk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer1 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 (edited) Don't be daft, you cannot test them side by side as the two bores and chambers etc. will always perform to different stds. No need though look at .22 lr target rifles - heavy barrels yet no heat up issues- bingo! (especially in 25 mtr prone - how long can it possibly take to fire a shot!) You been tooting on a crack pipe again? If it couldn't be tested how can you say one is more accurate due to harmonics? :blink: Of course 22LR produces heat - you are being rhw daft one here - rub any two surfaces together and you will find they generate heat - in fact - go fire a 25 round mag through a 10/22 and then hold onto the muzzle - you will find you get burnt! As I said - show me a good study between two same rifle brand, model and caliber with a test between the sported and heavy barrel version. Or any test on this that doesn't base it on recoil or shot string . Edited August 2, 2012 by gixer1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer1 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Don't be daft, you cannot test them side by side as the two bores and chambers etc. will always perform to different stds. No need though look at .22 lr target rifles - heavy barrels yet no heat up issues- bingo! (especially in 25 mtr prone - how long can it possibly take to fire a shot!) i do agree BTW for most of us they aint of any extra use, 1/4 MOA even dont make any odds either way and the advantage is often smaller. You certainly need to be beyond 300+ but like i say weight can help make the shot when rested, this is the reason for weight restiction in competition I do agree with you on the weight helping a rested shot and that it would be a very small difference - again though this is down to reduction in recoil due to weight - so in theory you could strap a bit of lead to the rifle and get the same effect. Regards, Gixer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bullet boy Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 Get a Tikka T3-you wont be disappointed!Ive got the Tikka T3 Lite with Synthetic stock and its a superb rifle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redgum Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 The first rifle I bought in 243 was Remington 700sps, it shot well, once I had replaced the stock with a hogue and trigger with a timney, oh and shortened the barrel. I loved the rifle but with the hogue stock on it was a bit heavy, especially compared with my 308 Tika. I would have saved money if I had just bought a tika in 243 in the first place, they are good bits of kit,light, adjustable trigger and just a delight to shoot. If you can't stretch to a new Tika then buy a good second hand one, used rifles are not fetching much money and there are some bargains to be had. I bought a brand new 243 because I read aload of guff about barrels being shot out, now I have a little more knowledge I wouldnt buy a new rifle again. If you buy a secondhand rifle from a dealer then you can take it back if it shoots like sxxt ( though it will be a right hassle with your license) A light weight rifle is a joy when you are walking miles and a slim barrel will handle shooting quarry as the barrel will never get that hot. When your zeroing you will find you will have to let the rifle cool down frequently to hold accuracy, if its an accurate rifle you won't need to put tonnes of lead down the tube. My 243 and 308 are both set up for max accuracy from a clean cold barrel, thats the shot that will be the most important one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gixer1 Posted August 2, 2012 Report Share Posted August 2, 2012 The first rifle I bought in 243 was Remington 700sps, it shot well, once I had replaced the stock with a hogue and trigger with a timney, oh and shortened the barrel. I loved the rifle but with the hogue stock on it was a bit heavy, especially compared with my 308 Tika. I would have saved money if I had just bought a tika in 243 in the first place, they are good bits of kit,light, adjustable trigger and just a delight to shoot. If you can't stretch to a new Tika then buy a good second hand one, used rifles are not fetching much money and there are some bargains to be had. I bought a brand new 243 because I read aload of guff about barrels being shot out, now I have a little more knowledge I wouldnt buy a new rifle again. If you buy a secondhand rifle from a dealer then you can take it back if it shoots like sxxt ( though it will be a right hassle with your license) A light weight rifle is a joy when you are walking miles and a slim barrel will handle shooting quarry as the barrel will never get that hot. When your zeroing you will find you will have to let the rifle cool down frequently to hold accuracy, if its an accurate rifle you won't need to put tonnes of lead down the tube. My 243 and 308 are both set up for max accuracy from a clean cold barrel, thats the shot that will be the most important one. Sound advice that I would second. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Big_Paulie Posted August 3, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Gents, Many thanks for the replies so far, very much appreciated! Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matone Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Only ever had one heavy barrel rifle,absolutely no advantage for use in the field for fox and deer.It`s only the first shot down a cold barrel that matters usually.Heavy barrels belong on the target/varmint bench. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 You been tooting on a crack pipe again? If it couldn't be tested how can you say one is more accurate due to harmonics? :blink: Of course 22LR produces heat - you are being rhw daft one here - rub any two surfaces together and you will find they generate heat - in fact - go fire a 25 round mag through a 10/22 and then hold onto the muzzle - you will find you get burnt! As I said - show me a good study between two same rifle brand, model and caliber with a test between the sported and heavy barrel version. Or any test on this that doesn't base it on recoil or shot string . your just being daft now, like your flexible actions your point is loose to say the least Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WGD Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Going against the grain, I have a heavy barrel .243 Sako 85 laminate. I don't find it overly heavy for stalking, either open hill reds or woodland roe. I don't believe there is any enhancement to accuracy but I PERSONALLY like the weight because I feel you can stabilise the rifle more quickly when you need to get a shot off. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 Going against the grain, I have a heavy barrel .243 Sako 85 laminate. I don't find it overly heavy for stalking, either open hill reds or woodland roe. I don't believe there is any enhancement to accuracy but I PERSONALLY like the weight because I feel you can stabilise the rifle more quickly when you need to get a shot off. Just my opinion. A valid one also the hardest rifle to shoot is a poorly balanced one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lloyder Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 +1 as above! Superb rifle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 I took a long range rabbit last night at thirty yards, thank goodness my 243 is a heavy barrel, im sure i would have missed if not 30yds? pushing it a bit are you not- i mean you might have wounded it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matone Posted August 3, 2012 Report Share Posted August 3, 2012 30yds? pushing it a bit are you not- i mean you might have wounded it Only if he used a bullet with an inferior ballistic co-efficient..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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