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Another shot maker in action!


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OK, another quick update after another melting session last Sunday in the cold. The new 2kw hotplate certainly works up enough heat to maintain a steady flow :good: All I have to do is work out how many cupcake sized lead ingots is just the right amount to allow the lead to flow at the right speed and not cool off the melt too much. I managed to experience all the extremes, from too large a head of molten lead fripping out 6 drippers really quickly (emptying the tin too quick to keep up the flow) to only having the central 2 drippers working nice and slowly due to the corners of the melt not being molten enough. I might end up blocking a couple off and only use 4 for a consistent flow.

 

The shot was a lot more uniform this time (still a few odd shapes in there due to flow and temp changes etc) and again about 5.5 size but it's still got a fair few dimples and this batch also has some shot with straight lines on it. However, I think the lines may be caused by the steel gauze strainer I've been using to catch the shot. Maybe the lead hasn't cooled enough at that stage and the gauze is marking it?? I'd be interested in any views on that. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the poor quality piccies attached. I reckon it's almost usable now and would certainly bring pigeons down but being the perfectionist that I am I'd like it to be rounder for a better pattern strong>ression.gif

 

Having said that, I remember some old paper cased S & B cartridges (do they even still make them?) that claimed to be No 6 shot but were in fact a mix of anything between 9 and 3 shot in all sorts of shapes, some round some square but by hell did they kill pigeons well, right out to long ranges! Damn cheap but also rotted your gun barrels if you didn't clean them straight away too. Think we paid £60/thousand which should date it for you :sad1:

 

post-38165-0-00526900-1351201643_thumb.jpg

 

post-38165-0-29628900-1351201646_thumb.jpg

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With the price of lead yes indeedy!!

It should make my cartridge costs almost 50% less..........and besides, I'm a typical stubborn bloke and like the challenge :yes:

 

Well Said That Man:

 

OK, another quick update after another melting session last Sunday in the cold. The new 2kw hotplate certainly works up enough heat to maintain a steady flow :good: All I have to do is work out how many cupcake sized lead ingots is just the right amount to allow the lead to flow at the right speed and not cool off the melt too much. I managed to experience all the extremes, from too large a head of molten lead fripping out 6 drippers really quickly (emptying the tin too quick to keep up the flow) to only having the central 2 drippers working nice and slowly due to the corners of the melt not being molten enough. I might end up blocking a couple off and only use 4 for a consistent flow.

 

The shot was a lot more uniform this time (still a few odd shapes in there due to flow and temp changes etc) and again about 5.5 size but it's still got a fair few dimples and this batch also has some shot with straight lines on it. However, I think the lines may be caused by the steel gauze strainer I've been using to catch the shot. Maybe the lead hasn't cooled enough at that stage and the gauze is marking it?? I'd be interested in any views on that. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the poor quality piccies attached. I reckon it's almost usable now and would certainly bring pigeons down but being the perfectionist that I am I'd like it to be rounder for a better pattern strong>ression.gif

 

Having said that, I remember some old paper cased S & B cartridges (do they even still make them?) that claimed to be No 6 shot but were in fact a mix of anything between 9 and 3 shot in all sorts of shapes, some round some square but by hell did they kill pigeons well, right out to long ranges! Damn cheap but also rotted your gun barrels if you didn't clean them straight away too. Think we paid £60/thousand which should date it for you :sad1:

 

post-38165-0-00526900-1351201643_thumb.jpg

 

post-38165-0-29628900-1351201646_thumb.jpg

 

Some Damn Good Flyers in There Mate.

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Well Said That Man:

 

 

 

Some Damn Good Flyers in There Mate.

 

Now....are we talking traditional "flyers" in that the odd shaped ones are going to drop way out of the pattern?......or were you saying that they look like they'll fly well?

I think I know which one you mean ;)

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thats not bad at all use brass bolts drill to .7 mill the brass retains the heat and keep the shot flowing 5 to 7 mill drop into coolent use cheapist fabric conditioner scoop it out of the bottom dont drop it on to mesh the tank needs to be at least 150 mill deep and dont breath the fumes and best off all when loaded up and you manage to drop some pigeons home loaded pigeons taste better and the feathers are softer

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thats not bad at all use brass bolts drill to .7 mill the brass retains the heat and keep the shot flowing 5 to 7 mill drop into coolent use cheapist fabric conditioner scoop it out of the bottom dont drop it on to mesh the tank needs to be at least 150 mill deep and dont breath the fumes and best off all when loaded up and you manage to drop some pigeons home loaded pigeons taste better and the feathers are softer

 

It's not bolts that were the problem this time. Once the flow started the only time it stopped was when the whole melt pool had cooled down by me putting in too many ingots for it to melt evenly. This meant the lead had actually started to go slushy around the whole edge of the pan so having warmer bolts wouldn't have helped. Also, doing it outside with a massive 11 degrees temp didn't help too much either :no:

Tank is about 200 mm deep so should be ok, already using Tesco "value" cheapy conditioner and have been putting fresh stuff in during process so coolant doesn't get too hot. I just ladle some out into the drip tray and pour a bit back in from another cooled bottle.

For all you lead addicts out there, the next installment is sorting the shot using my special Carlos Fandango patented shot sorting device...............gotta keep you guessing til next time now :good:

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Hi how much linotype to the kilo of lead do you need to put to get right shot.

 

As Linotype already contains lead (84%) + 12% Antimony + 4% tin, I mixed it to give between about 2-4% antimony which is meant to be good for general shooting from what I've read on this forum. This works out at about 1 part Linotype to 4 parts lead.....I think.

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to so the shot i use a metal bowl with the right size holes drilled in it take second to sort the shot only the good stuff go through and the **** gets re done

 

Probably something like this beauty then........my patented (i.e. cheap) no longer non-stick frying pan, slightly modified to allow for free draining fat from your bacon.....or a load of No 5 or 6 shot :good:

 

post-38165-0-41616600-1351358911_thumb.jpg

 

Plus, about 8kg of assorted shot laying out to dry in the wind. To give an idea of scale those are 2 foot slabs and I've got about 3 of those batches to sort from my first go at shot making. Took about 2 hours to get 25Kg worth this time but I'm sure I can get the time down with practice.

 

post-38165-0-30711200-1351358909_thumb.jpg

 

And here's Lidls finest kitchen sink strainer, slightly altered to fit my square coolant tank. Bit of a bodge job to see if it worked but I'll leave it out next time to see if it is what's causing the marks on the shot. I'll also be getting an unmodified one back in the kitchen before I get a new orifice reamed into me by the missus :D

 

post-38165-0-92502700-1351358913_thumb.jpg

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  • 3 months later...

It's not bolts that were the problem this time. Once the flow started the only time it stopped was when the whole melt pool had cooled down by me putting in too many ingots for it to melt evenly. This meant the lead had actually started to go slushy around the whole edge of the pan so having warmer bolts wouldn't have helped. Also, doing it outside with a massive 11 degrees temp didn't help too much either :no:

Tank is about 200 mm deep so should be ok, already using Tesco "value" cheapy conditioner and have been putting fresh stuff in during process so coolant doesn't get too hot. I just ladle some out into the drip tray and pour a bit back in from another cooled bottle.

For all you lead addicts out there, the next installment is sorting the shot using my special Carlos Fandango patented shot sorting device...............gotta keep you guessing til next time now :good:

hi skid can you tell me have the conditioner in the water ,have it got to be hot or warms in the water
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hi skid can you tell me have the conditioner in the water ,have it got to be hot or warms in the water

 

There is no water, just neat conditioner. It starts off cold and gradually heats up as the lead drops into it. You don't want too much heat in it though or it won't cool the lead shot enough before it hits bottom of the tank so just try to change some of it during the process i.e. ladle some warm conditioner out and pour fresh cool stuff back in.

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Excellent thread. Very tempted to start building my own when the weather warms up a bit.

 

Just a thought (I probably read it somewhere else and have just remembered it)- has anyone had success using MIG welder tips instead of drilling bolts out? They are made of copper and normally come with a .6 or .8mm hole down the middle.

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put a bottle of frozen water in the conditioner...

 

Stop being all sensible and logical, that's FAR too easy!

 

On the other hand, you probably don't want it too cold as well as too hot :lol: :lol: Just kidding, good idea :good:

 

Excellent thread. Very tempted to start building my own when the weather warms up a bit.

 

Just a thought (I probably read it somewhere else and have just remembered it)- has anyone had success using MIG welder tips instead of drilling bolts out? They are made of copper and normally come with a .6 or .8mm hole down the middle.

 

Not sure, a friend of mine tried but it didn't turn out well. However, that could have been any number of reasons as he'd never done it before.

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