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.223 target holder for zeroing?


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Just a thought. Thinking of making a target holder for A4 size targets for practice and zeroing the .223.

 

Was thinking about using 3/4" or thicker plate and adding layers of rubber belting over the top to pin the paper to and stop ricochets and maybe a layer of ply in the middle. We have all kinds of rubber type stuff to cover the steel with at work. Any thoughts on this,or would it be better using a few sleepers or a natural backstop. I have seen what different calibers can do do steel so just asking.

Cheers Albert

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I assume the holder will be used with a backstop? Or are you hoping to make something that will stop the bullet?

 

I make target holders with two lengths of flat bar about 2 feet long with a piece of lino screwed between them. You can staple the target to the lino and it lasts for ages. When it's shot out unbolt it and fit a new piece.

 

Stopping a .223 round isn't easy. The best I've seen for that is a welded box with a sloped top/rear so the bullet hits it and deflects into the ground. That way the steel doesn't actually have to catch the bullet, rather just change it's direction.

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I assume the holder will be used with a backstop? Or are you hoping to make something that will stop the bullet?

 

I make target holders with two lengths of flat bar about 2 feet long with a piece of lino screwed between them. You can staple the target to the lino and it lasts for ages. When it's shot out unbolt it and fit a new piece.

 

Stopping a .223 round isn't easy. The best I've seen for that is a welded box with a sloped top/rear so the bullet hits it and deflects into the ground. That way the steel doesn't actually have to catch the bullet, rather just change it's direction.

 

Yes sorry i should have put down i have a backstop. Just wanted to stop the bullet dead.The one you have seen sounds good. I have seen a bullet stop - catcher that uses angled steel plates and a catch pot,to enable recovery of lead. Looks like i may use rubber belting and a wood frame in the end or plywood.

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what happens if you miss the bullet catcher?

 

polystyrene pizza base, a bamboo skewer and a soft earth bank.

does what is needed

 

If it happens to miss the catcher it will hit the safe back stop. I would rather be safe than sorry.And at no point did i say there wouldnt be a safe backstop.

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Just a thought. Thinking of making a target holder for A4 size targets for practice and zeroing the .223.

 

Was thinking about using 3/4" or thicker plate and adding layers of rubber belting over the top to pin the paper to and stop ricochets and maybe a layer of ply in the middle. We have all kinds of rubber type stuff to cover the steel with at work. Any thoughts on this,or would it be better using a few sleepers or a natural backstop. I have seen what different calibers can do do steel so just asking.

Cheers Albert

heres mine takes a4 targets all cut out at back so bullets pass straight though 4 magnets to hold target 1 of lads on here made it for me and its class

post-23051-0-89124200-1349963941_thumb.jpg

Edited by swiss.tony
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When it comes to targets made of steel - there is steel and there is steel. The ones I have are off cuts from the steel used to make steel buckets that go on earth moving vehicles. Made from steel about 6 mm thick - you cannot drill them with conventional drills (originally cut by laser) At 100 yds with a 6.5 they at worst put a dent of 2 thou in the plate.

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/SamPeter.jpg

 

As for a target holder, a simple one made of wood that folds up for transit is easy enough to make using a few feet of 2 x 1 batten

 

Apart from batten you will need:

 

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/TargetHolder001.jpg

 

Assembly:

 

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/TargetHolder004.jpg

 

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/TargetHolder005.jpg

 

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/TargetHolder006.jpg

 

http://i438.photobucket.com/albums/qq101/wyndog/TargetHolder007.jpg

 

Peter

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your on the wrong lines with this one i think, steel (of the correct type and thickness) makes good knock over plates were its dead safe IMO thats about it with C/F rifles. If you need to think better taget backer for a backstop before your actual backstop then i am tempted to be frightened by your main backstop quality, though i havent seen it think on- you cant call a bullet back. Bits of old ply and a staple gun to fasten the targets work fine, or Plaster board scraps with aim points drawn on when its not wet can be pressed into service if i have a load of bits about. A cheap sheet of ply and a circular saw and you have target backers that wont create a ricochet (like steel can) and will last ages, add a couple screws and a bit of slate batten and jobs sorted. If you fancy walking 300+ yards into a field like mine with a lump of steel under your arm it will just take you longer to compose yourself and get you heart rate to relax again back at the firing point

 

A good backstop is rising soft ground without lots of hard objects lying around. The steeper the angle the better, the higher the apex above target the better

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Allowing the steel to move a bit will really help. You could try putting a hinge on the angled top/back so it can lift slightly when hit. Anything that's going to last a lot of centrefire hits is going to be heavy though. I think the rubber and wood idea is best for ease of use. Having said that my lino and steel holders last for ages and don't fall apart or split like ply and post types. I've made mine quite light, I can carry it in a backpack without knowing it's there because the pegs roll up in the lino. :good:

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your on the wrong lines with this one i think, steel (of the correct type and thickness) makes good knock over plates were its dead safe IMO thats about it with C/F rifles. If you need to think better taget backer for a backstop before your actual backstop then i am tempted to be frightened by your main backstop quality, though i havent seen it think on- you cant call a bullet back. Bits of old ply and a staple gun to fasten the targets work fine, or Plaster board scraps with aim points drawn on when its not wet can be pressed into service if i have a load of bits about. A cheap sheet of ply and a circular saw and you have target backers that wont create a ricochet (like steel can) and will last ages, add a couple screws and a bit of slate batten and jobs sorted. If you fancy walking 300+ yards into a field like mine with a lump of steel under your arm it will just take you longer to compose yourself and get you heart rate to relax again back at the firing point

 

A good backstop is rising soft ground without lots of hard objects lying around. The steeper the angle the better, the higher the apex above target the better

 

The holder is to use on a mates land not my permission,just an idea we had thought about. His backstop is classed as a little mountain in wales.large hill in england.

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