Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Contacted WabbitBosher back last year looking for an 'in any condition' AYA No.3 with a 3inch mag chamber. Took a while as these things do, but true to his word one came in last December and Mick let me know. Few dings on the wood, on the whole a lovely gun. The before as I received her. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Here's the stripping across a few post, I'll add a full break down at the end.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mpk Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Looking good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lord Geordie Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 That is one nice looking bit of timber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 So then here's how I did it. Firstly a trip to B&Q, sandpaper 180, 400, 600 and 1500 grit, 00 wire wool and nitromors. Also purchased prior to starting, Napier London stock kit, Tru-oil and Perma blue kit. An old paint brush, tooth brush, dish cloth, steam iron (don't use SWMBO's brand new one), scraper and plenty of kitchen roll. I'd like to suggested that if you're looking to reblue the whole barrel, send it to somebody like RichardH from here. Two attempts stripping it back to bare metal, meticulous care not to get moisture on the metal, doing it a section at a time and it never quite looked right IMHO. So 4 hours of my life that I'll never see again, anyway I digress. Step1. Remove all the metal/plastic from the stock and fore end, as you don't want to get nitromors on it. Newspaper down, liberally coat all the varnished areas with the nitromors (follow the instruction on the tin), use the tooth brush to do the chequering and reapply until all the varnish has gone. Step2. Fire up the iron. Over the years of use, your wood work is going to get dented and steaming the wood will lift the majority of them out. Soak the dish cloth in water, place over the dented area and steam. I went over the whole stock at least 4 times and concentrated on the most suborn dents until happy with the results. Step3. Sanding. Start coarse and work up to fine. You may find as I did that some dents have been missed, so steaming again. Most people recommend not to follow the grain of the wood and don't concentrate on an area for too long as you'll end up with flat spots. Sand until you're happy with finish and how smooth it feels. Step4. Staining or filling 1st. I went filling, this solution fills all of the pores and any really deep dents that couldn't be raised with steaming. I applied 2 coats, sanding back with 1500 after 24hrs each time. Step5. Staining. In the birchwood casey kit theres a walnut water based stain, so you can dilute should a lighter wood finish be preferred. I didn't and went with how it came out of the bottle. Apply and leave for 24hrs. Step6. Applying the Tru-oil. Now this is the longest part of the process and you'll need to be a bit patient. I poked a hole in the foil lid with a pencil, using a small drop on my finger tip at time, apply to the wood along the grain and don't use to much, as this will lead to runs. Leave to dry fully, can take upto 24hrs, sand back with the 00 wire wool and repeat the process of applying the oil. It took just over a week to apply roughly 15 coats of oil. Once the last coat has been applied leave it for a minimum of 48hrs. Step7. Apply the sheen and conditioner after the 48hrs and reassemble. Job done. Once my barrels are back from reblueing I'll post a final pic. Hope this helps others have a bash at doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
overandunder2012 Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 nice job thanks for the tips i have an air riffle i want to do sometime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
contrysports Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 just done my stock but it dose not have that shiny finish. how did you get that good finish? ps good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted January 25, 2013 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 just done my stock but it dose not have that shiny finish. how did you get that good finish? ps good work. Thank you. Just used the Tru-oil and it dried with that shine. There does seem to be a difference in how some of the members have found Tru-oil, personally it was easy to use, but you definitely can't rush it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garygreengrass Posted January 25, 2013 Report Share Posted January 25, 2013 Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy135 Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 Very nice work there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
archiebald Posted January 26, 2013 Report Share Posted January 26, 2013 looks great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted January 30, 2013 Report Share Posted January 30, 2013 Nice work mate, sorry I didn't see this post until today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnbaz Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Very nice work Mate If you redo any that have been oil finished rather than Lacquer finish, get hold of some Oxalic acid crystals, mix with water in a suitable receptacle then immerse the stocks in for a few hours (warm water seems to do a quicker job) the old oil will come away easily and for the chequering, a soft brass wire (suede) brush will do the job without flattening the diamonds.. Cna't wait to see the final pic B) B) Cheers, John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 I want to do mine now. In fact I want the OP to do mine now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
poorpeet Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 What did you use to fill the pores in the wood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 What did you use to fill the pores in the wood? A small bottle of filler comes with the Napier kit, but you can use tru oil and some wet n dry sandpaper, to make a slurry that will fill the pores. There's a full description of how to do it on the birchwood casey website. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangled99 Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Which kit did you use the Napier one or the Birchwood Casey or did you use different bits from each kit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Which kit did you use the Napier one or the Birchwood Casey or did you use different bits from each kit. Used bits of each kit, criticism of the Napier, it didn't have a wood stain or a detailed set of instructions, you have to buy the DVD for that!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangled99 Posted February 1, 2013 Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Thanks for that, I was just wondering as I am thinking of doing the stock on my old Miroku. I really like the dark satin finished oil stocks and would like to get a finish as dark as this http://www.guntrader.co.uk/Guns-For-Sale/Miroku_Shotgun_MK-38-Grade-3_For-Sale_120726181338001 I was wondering which stains and oils to use as I really don't want a shiny finish but I want it dark with the grain still showing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted February 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2013 Thanks for that, I was just wondering as I am thinking of doing the stock on my old Miroku. I really like the dark satin finished oil stocks and would like to get a finish as dark as this http://www.guntrader.co.uk/Guns-For-Sale/Miroku_Shotgun_MK-38-Grade-3_For-Sale_120726181338001 I was wondering which stains and oils to use as I really don't want a shiny finish but I want it dark with the grain still showing. That looks lovely, there are a few boys on here who really know their stuff when it comes to stocks. I'd put start a new thread looking for some pointers. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thunderbird Posted February 19, 2013 Report Share Posted February 19, 2013 Have you got your barrels back? We need pictures... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brown Sauce Posted February 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2013 Coming soon. RichardH has worked his magic on the barrels, which needed quite some sanding back. Unfortunately an abusive previous owner had stripped all of the colour hardening from the action, which can't be put back on without great expense. So this weekend, the action is getting a good polish. Hopefully she'll be back together next week and I'll post some pics shortly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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