mecman Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 can anyone help with information on wireing simmerstat to cooker ring thanks in advance for any reply's Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted January 29, 2014 Report Share Posted January 29, 2014 can anyone help with information on wireing simmerstat to cooker ring thanks in advance for any reply's I'm no electrician so in no position to advise but I recall that on mine it was a little square box with 'line' and 'load' printed against the spade terminals. I recall that line was power in and load was power out to the shotmaker. Neutral shared a double terminal in one corner and another terminal meant for an 'on light' in the opposite needed blanking off. I recall the earth wire bypassed this and connects straight to the shotmaker element on the plate between the tails. Yours is probably different and electricity kills so the advise of a competent electrician is most advisable. I also made sure mine had a RCD on the plug for safety. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pestcontrol1 Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 I'm no electrician so in no position to advise but I recall that on mine it was a little square box with 'line' and 'load' printed against the spade terminals. I recall that line was power in and load was power out to the shotmaker. Neutral shared a double terminal in one corner and another terminal meant for an 'on light' in the opposite needed blanking off. I recall the earth wire bypassed this and connects straight to the shotmaker element on the plate between the tails. Yours is probably different and electricity kills so the advise of a competent electrician is most advisable. I also made sure mine had a RCD on the plug for safety. I am sure we must have a hand full of electricians on hear who could advise you the correct way like sits says electric just wants to zap you every chance it get Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mecman Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 yes it's dangerous so i got my sparky to wire it up . i tested it but found the element was not big enough i ordered a 6in one but when i got it was only 5.38. that small amount made a huge difference because it wouldn't reach the outside of my pan or heat the ramp enough so got to order a larger one. thank's for your help everyone who replied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 yes it's dangerous so i got my sparky to wire it up . i tested it but found the element was not big enough i ordered a 6in one but when i got it was only 5.38. that small amount made a huge difference because it wouldn't reach the outside of my pan or heat the ramp enough so got to order a larger one. thank's for your help everyone who replied. 6" elements are fine, it's what I mostly used but it needs to be a 1500watt 3 turn and not the standard 1100 watt 2 turn version. I used to buy the element then make the pot to fit it nicely. 7" elements with a decent wattage are easier to come by though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatherandSon Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I found that a 0.60mm hole would make 7.5 shot, a 0.65 would make no7, a 0.8mm hole would make no6 shot and a 1mm hole would make no5. Are these sizes correct? Ive tried drilling a 0.6mm hole in steel bolts and its proved a nightmare. It seems tiny! Any tips regarding drill speed, feed and lube? They are HSS jobber drills. Cant afford cobalt!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Are these sizes correct? Ive tried drilling a 0.6mm hole in steel bolts and its proved a nightmare. It seems tiny! Any tips regarding drill speed, feed and lube? They are HSS jobber drills. Cant afford cobalt!! It's not a problem with quality drill bits, Dormer etc not cheap Chinese rubbish, and decent equipment to put them in. It's far easier in standard bolts than stainless and heating the bolts to bright red and allowing them to cool will anneal them making the drilling easier but it still wants doing on proper machinery and not with hand tools. I believe deershooter on this forum will make a stainless set for £35. I make my own but haven't the drill bits right now to make spares. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatherandSon Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Ive got a Medding pillar drill and precision pin chuck. I am using Dormer HSS jobber drills. Do you drill them in one go or do do them in stages or a mil or two at a time. What RPM and do you use lube? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Ive got a Medding pillar drill and precision pin chuck. I am using Dormer HSS jobber drills. Do you drill them in one go or do do them in stages or a mil or two at a time. What RPM and do you use lube? I drill a 3.2mm hole down the length of an M8x12 hex set screw which is firstly centred in my lathe then finished just shy of coming thru the bolt head on my drill press at maybe 400 rpm, speed isn't that crtitical here. I then fit the bolt in my milling machine vice with one flat square to the chuck and put a piece of electrical tape on this to guide the tiny drill bit for a moment until it creates its own mark to follow. I drill at around 1000 fps+ and peck at the steel somewhat to avoid the metal work hardening by generating to much heat at the tip. I use a drop of CT90 cutting oil because I have it handy rather than it being particularly good. It's a smart move to make the tiny hole first before drilling down the length because it stops the tiny drill breaking as it breaks thru into the larger hole so easily, then going thru again after the big hole is drilled to clear it. I blow them out with an air line to make sure they are clear of swarf. To drill stainless reliably you really want cobalt drills, carbide is too brittle and standard HSS can't cope with the abrasive nature. I've come to the conclusion it's better to make them out of mild steel bolts which wont last as long but far easier to reproduce and replace. I think the mild steel are more likely to corrode and go out of spec but you'll still make plenty of shot with them first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 I am unable to get in the workshop at present due to illness but will try and get a set made this next week ,how many of each size do you need .i spent in excess of £100 to buy my drills and drill them on a milling machine not a pillar drill Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatherandSon Posted February 15, 2014 Report Share Posted February 15, 2014 Hope youre better soon! Ive got a bew pin chuck on order as mine wasnt holding too well. Ill let you know how I get on when the chuck arrives, if I quit I'll need 6 0.6mm M8 bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
deershooter Posted February 16, 2014 Report Share Posted February 16, 2014 Mine are stainless steel with copper washer the drills are £10 each one might do 20 droppers the next one 1 it's a lottery but hss are next to useless mine are cobalt Deershooter I have 4 already to go just need to make 2 more Deershooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimeDrags Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 The best and safest coolant to use is cheap fabric conditioner. I used to get Easy Iron brand but now the price has gone up i get the 1 litre square bottles of Morrisons own brand. It's blue in colour and about 50p per litre. Makes great shot. Sits Do you use it neat or what level of dilution would you advise ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted February 17, 2014 Report Share Posted February 17, 2014 Sits Do you use it neat or what level of dilution would you advise ? Neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatherandSon Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 Hooray!! Ive drilled my 0.6mm holes. I used a dremmel and a stand and oil to lube. I tried it dry but it wouldnt have it. In the end I used 1 bit for all my bolts!! Now all I need is to get it hot! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 How to prepare lead ready for use in a shotmaker. http://www.lasc.us/FryxellFluxing.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortune Posted February 18, 2014 Report Share Posted February 18, 2014 I think that there was someone down near portslade who made the pan out of Aluminium and machined it out using a cnc mill to put a curly heater element into the base of it. I think? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bay firearms Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I'm interested in making my own shot but I'm never going to be able to make the dripper, anyone got one for sale or know where I can buy one of internet?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatherandSon Posted February 24, 2014 Report Share Posted February 24, 2014 I'm interested in making my own shot but I'm never going to be able to make the dripper, anyone got one for sale or know where I can buy one of internet??I've got a prototype you can buy. It's not pretty and needs nozzles but it'll be cheap!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted March 15, 2014 Report Share Posted March 15, 2014 The assembled shotmaker tearing out 25kg of no6 in double quick time using 0.8mm drippers. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCD181wfyn8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Donkey Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Would this work as a heat source /290410064304?pt=UK_HGKitchen_SmallApp_RL&hash=item439dc9e9b0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sitsinhedges Posted March 30, 2014 Report Share Posted March 30, 2014 Would this work as a heat source /290410064304?pt=UK_HGKitchen_SmallApp_RL&hash=item439dc9e9b0 No, they don't get hot enough as per post 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
izzypop Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Hi'just about to start makeing my own shot,wot do i use To make the ingots ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FatherandSon Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 (edited) I cast mine into egg moulds from a cook shop. Thwy were stainless steel and about £3 Edited April 29, 2014 by FatherandSon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
izzypop Posted April 29, 2014 Report Share Posted April 29, 2014 Thanks mate see wot i can find Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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