Animal Mother Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I've done a search first but didn't come up with anything. I'll be fixing my cabinet soon. I know where it's going, how I'm fixing it etc etc.The only thing I'm not sure of is whether I should cut away the dot and dab plasterboard and fix it it against the brickwork (yes, bricks! ) or just up against the plasterboard? I'm (heavily) leaning toward the flush against brickwork option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrapFiller Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Against the fabric of the building so it needs to be on the brickwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I wouldn't bother taking out the plasterboard, a lot of mess and repairing when you change your mind, get a bigger cabinet etc. I have the same walls as you. I agree with Trapfiller, drill through the plasterboard, into the brickwork and bolt into the brickwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I agree with Trapfiller, drill through the plasterboard, into the brickwork and bolt into the brickwork. That's not what he said. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 This may well come down to the FEO who turns up, but in principle screwing to plasterboard/dry lining is not acceptable, but there should be no issue screwing clean through the board into solid brick........... but like I say.... This may well come down to the FEO who turns up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simjakcal Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 to much hassle and mess cutting the plaster board away,,i sat mine on a block to raise it above the skirting,then drilled straight through plaster board into block work..i had to use studded bar and resin for fixings as it was therma block ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Either way it'll be into the brickwork. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Just drill through the plasterboard if its just dot and dab on brickwork it will be fine as the anchorage will be brick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Just drill through the plasterboard if its just dot and dab on brickwork it will be fine as the anchorage will be brick It seems a bit like half a job to me though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 you can cut it out but you will never repair where its been when you move but ultimately your choice. I don't know anyone who has cut theirs out and the last 2 houses I have been in mine have been mounted to the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) It seems a bit like half a job to me though. I would tend to agree, but few FEO are structural engineers and if it is firmly attached to a brick wall (even if there is a layer of plasterboard between) that is all that matters! Any debate about the integrity of the fixings is somewhat hypothetical, if Intruders bring industrial equipment to remove it they will remove it, however you fix it! Edited May 14, 2013 by Dekers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogs Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Hi i had same thing, i used 10 mm threaded bar and fixings into the brick and then took up the space inbetween brick and pb with some good substantial tubing (shed 90 ) over the threaded bar to allow the cabinet to screw up to ? just make sure you dont cut the tube to short or yerl pull the plaster board into the wall. worked ok for me ? done another two since ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) That's not what he said. With that sort of response, you're on your own! Edited May 14, 2013 by turbo33 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maxus77 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 4-8 thunderbolts depending on size of cabinet through board into brick job done, it aint moving after that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Good shot? Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 (edited) Hi i had same thing, i used 10 mm threaded bar and fixings into the brick and then took up the space inbetween brick and pb with some good substantial tubing (shed 90 ) over the threaded bar to allow the cabinet to screw up to ? just make sure you dont cut the tube to short or yerl pull the plaster board into the wall. worked ok for me ? done another two since ? As dogs says, but pack out up to outer face of plasterboard at fixing points 2" square + space eg 2" square cut out in plasterboard at fixing points. (hardwood packers will do it) and screw down up to packers so back of cabinet is tight up to face of board and then seal around cabinet edge with sealant to tidy up. Edited May 14, 2013 by Good shot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmoz82 Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 4-8 thunderbolts depending on size of cabinet through board into brick job done, it aint moving after that +1 thunderbolts are the best solution for fixing through plasterboard to brick or block !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DSPUK Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I rented for 18 month's and I marked out where cabinet was going - drilled three 2" holes in plaster board on a centre line of cabinet - mixed up a runny dab mixture - then using a mortor squirty gun injected it down behind plasterboard moving up a hole as each one filled up - left it a few days then bolted cabinet on wall - solid as a rock - when moved just filled bolt holes and lick of emulsion. dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B B Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 Agree with the above, but a off topic question but still cabinet fixing related. If you were to already have a cabinet installed/ inspected etc but wanted to fit another one next to your existing one would you need a additional inspection if you fitted it the same way as the original one was installed . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrapFiller Posted May 14, 2013 Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 I didn't even have mine inspected. Just phoned them up told then where it was and what it was secured to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Animal Mother Posted May 14, 2013 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2013 With that sort of response, you're on your own! I'm not sure what you're on about. You said "I agree with Trapfiller" and then said something different to what he said: Against the fabric of the building so it needs to be on the brickwork. I wouldn't bother taking out the plasterboard, a lot of mess and repairing when you change your mind, get a bigger cabinet etc. I have the same walls as you. I agree with Trapfiller, drill through the plasterboard, into the brickwork and bolt into the brickwork. Hence my comment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mitchsan51 Posted May 15, 2013 Report Share Posted May 15, 2013 Drill the holes into the brickwork , squirt in epoxy resin, be quick at push the threaded bar into the holes. Presto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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