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Fore-end is loose?


11josh112
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Yeah tightened those didn't seem to do the trick. :blush:

the hook will be worn, buy some of that doubled sided tape the thick stuff with foam on it , cut a 3" strip stick it to the forend job done tight as a Scotsman :)

(Don't remove both sides it sticks to your barrels and get messy) ;) .....

Edited by delburt0
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Try Foam draught excluding tape, the sort that sticks around door frames, around £1 for a large roll and adhesive on 1 side only. stick inside forend wood, job done. Do ENSURE that the wood to metal fixings on the forend are tight, quickest way to split wood if they become loose.

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Gluing bits of shim in the hook is craftsmanship ?

 

It is but one of the solutions he suggested. If it is a permanent and professional solution, then why not. Certainly remanufacturing the spring clip that kept the fore-end in place is craftsmanship.

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the hook will be worn, buy some of that doubled sided tape the thick stuff with foam on it , cut a 3" strip stick it to the forend job done tight as a Scotsman :)

(Don't remove both sides it sticks to your barrels and get messy) ;) .....

That advice will work just fine.....to add I used a thin piece of double sided tape on a friends gun. Only removing one side of the covering.

Mine is from the car trade which was used to put moulding's -badges back on.

 

TEH

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Forget the Us bodgers , there are plenty on bodgers in the UK . Better still take it to a gunsmith and get it done correctly .

 

 

I have only been building and re building double guns since 1968 so what do I know ?

Ahhhhhhh. Bit short of work? ;-)

and most replays are at the blacksmiths end of gun smithing

 

Deershooter

?

Edited by Marki
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T.H.E. it is not permanent nor is it professional .It may be alright for Americans who know no difference , but then again I have only been building and re building double guns since 1968 so what do I know ?

But the fact is he is repairing an old Gremlington not a London gun, the repair is in short good enough and "cost effective" Now if the gun was worth a four figure plus sum repaired, the time and cost will well be justified. Lets face it there are loads of old Belgium made guns etc going to scrap today and you obviously saw a few English Hammer guns go in the bin if you have been at the job from 68 (some of which you might be glad to have kept today)

Heck if you took that gun from the clip (broken ejector, off the face and a forend that will not retain) into a shop for repair and re-proof what do you think might be suggested?

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Josh asked originaly about a loose forend . There have been a lot of comments that have suggested "bodge" methods that will alleviate but not cure the underlying problem . The U-tube video of which I have watched several of the series dose not help . My comments based on my professional experience about the methods employed by this man stand . If I re jointed a gun in that manor for any of my past or present employers I would be sacked . It dose not matter what a gun is worth the job of which there are several ways of doing needs to be done correctly and IMHO that was not one of them .

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Larry Potterfield mentioned other methods of tightening the forend - he has added metal to hook permanently in other videos. He knows his stuff.

 

To suggest he is some kind of bodger is, quite frankly, silly. He was suggesting a cheap, simple method of tightening the forend up, which most shooters could do at home. Not everyone has a MIG welder.

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Properly!

Manufacturing a spare part from scratch seems like a pretty proper fix to me.

 

As for the barrels which were loose on the action, he mentioned several ways to fix it - and demonstrated one. Check out his other videos for the other methods such as filling in metal with a TIG welder.

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