malkiserow Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 I picked up a very early Estwing axe with a leather washer handle just like the hammers. The leather is now so old it is shot. Has anyone any re-handling experience to make suggestions to make a really nice job of it? Before you ask...... I rang Estwing and asked them to sell me some new leather washers....... They refused. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 I repaired a leather handle hammer a few years ago. I just used thin strips of leather and epoxied them. I have 5 Estwing hammers - one of which is leather, which I keep thinking of doing from scratch. If anyone does have a good solution, I too would be interested. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonwolf444 Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 I would have thought an old belt, a bit of persistance, some super glue or epoxy, plenty of sand paper would do it ( I don't have anything with leather handles though ) If you want decorative buffalo horn and ivory, it can be bought off ebay ( the ivory is obviously not real ) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 (edited) I repaired a leather handle hammer a few years ago. I just used thin strips of leather and epoxied them. I have 5 Estwing hammers - one of which is leather, which I keep thinking of doing from scratch. If anyone does have a good solution, I too would be interested.The leather originals are secured under huge pressure..... I am thinking of some 1/2 inch thick discs....... But not sure of which material to use? Black HDPE would work..... But I want something natural Edited January 24, 2014 by malkiserow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnlewis Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Good luck as I have old 12oz estwing leather grip hammer had it since the early 80s its now got insulation tape wrapped around the leather grip so that it does not come apart. I too would like to regrip it as its great hammer for clipping cables back (not to heavy). I have a rubber grip estwing 20oz as well but I did like the light weight for some jobs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
saddler Posted January 24, 2014 Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 Are the handle leather discs all the same size? What are the handle inner shape/dimensions? I'm planning on getting a few more cutters for my clicker press; the ones I have in mind are the oval discs for military style knives, such as the Aircrew survival knife and the WW2 M3. If people want discs making for Estwing handles I'm happy to have a suitable cutter made & supply handle rebuild kits made from 1/4-inch thick hide. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted January 24, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2014 The pieces are different sizes as there is a swell towards the helve toe. I guess you mean the strip steel tools set in Ply or the welded strip Swedish type? My axe is a very old version of this one - ebay item 171219768917 What price are we looking at for a set posted... just ballpark ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 http://item.mobileweb.ebay.co.uk/viewitem?itemId=360843522364 This any use Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaptainBeaky Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 It's called a stacked leather handle, and yes, they need to be glued up under pressure. You can set up a suitable jig with a sash cramp - you need a hole for the tang to slide into, and a non stick surface to avoid gluing the last washer to the clamp. I made one up using scrap lengths of Unistrut and some studding. I can't remember off hand how the butt is secured on an Estwing, but on knives the tang usually goes through a metal pommel or plate, and is peened over to hold it on. In my experience, you don't need to cut holes the exact shape of the tang, but a line of circular punch holes works as long as the diameter of the holes it's about the width of the tang. The washers can also be rectangular and over size - create the final shape using a belt sander once the epoxy has set. So; Count washers on original handle, and cut 20% more than this - the originals are very thick, and yours will squash down in the clamp. Measure the profile along the length of the handle and cut rectangular washers to cover this. Punch a line of holes across the centre of your washers so they will slide onto the tang. The glue will lubricate them on final assembly, so the washers can be quite tight. Mix up sufficient epoxy for the job, making sure it is warm. Spread glue on the top (head side) of the first washer, and slide it onto the tang, all the way to the top. Spread glue on the bottom of the first washer and slide the next one on. Repeat. I would suggest clamping up briefly about a third of the way along, and the again at two thirds, just to start compressing the leather. When you get to the end, put the handle in the clamp and clamp tightly. After an hour or so you will be able to wind it down a bit more as the leather compresses. Keep checking every few hours and tighten when possible. When the epoxy is set, you may now find too much tang sticking out, so you will need to repeat the process - you did cut enough washers, didn't you? When all the washers are on and set, c rivet on the pommel. Shape the handle profile using a belt sander - take it slowly so you don't burn the leather, and use a new, sharp belt of about 40 grit. When you have the shape cut, polish by working up the grits to about 400 - don't use emery or carborundum as they will stain the leather. Finish with carnuaba wax or beeswax, applied hot and rubbed in hard. Hmmm - that post ended up longer than I intended! Also, search on the British Blades forum for"stacked leather handle tutorial". hth Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark@mbb Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 If Estwing are like snap on send it back they have a life time guarantee I have a blue handled one which I have had for 30 years and used every day Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted January 25, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 (edited) If Estwing are like snap on send it back they have a life time guarantee I have a blue handled one which I have had for 30 years and used every day Mine dates from the 1920 and I understand from them there it does not have a lifetime guarantee - unfortunately. I think the leather breakdown is classed as wearing out rather than product failure. The steel is excellent quality on this. Edited January 25, 2014 by malkiserow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted January 25, 2014 Report Share Posted January 25, 2014 CaptainBeaky - excellent post. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted January 27, 2014 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2014 It's called a stacked leather handle, and yes, they need to be glued up under pressure. You can set up a suitable jig with a sash cramp - you need a hole for the tang to slide into, and a non stick surface to avoid gluing the last washer to the clamp. I made one up using scrap lengths of Unistrut and some studding. I can't remember off hand how the butt is secured on an Estwing, but on knives the tang usually goes through a metal pommel or plate, and is peened over to hold it on. In my experience, you don't need to cut holes the exact shape of the tang, but a line of circular punch holes works as long as the diameter of the holes it's about the width of the tang. The washers can also be rectangular and over size - create the final shape using a belt sander once the epoxy has set. So; Count washers on original handle, and cut 20% more than this - the originals are very thick, and yours will squash down in the clamp. Measure the profile along the length of the handle and cut rectangular washers to cover this. Punch a line of holes across the centre of your washers so they will slide onto the tang. The glue will lubricate them on final assembly, so the washers can be quite tight. Mix up sufficient epoxy for the job, making sure it is warm. Spread glue on the top (head side) of the first washer, and slide it onto the tang, all the way to the top. Spread glue on the bottom of the first washer and slide the next one on. Repeat. I would suggest clamping up briefly about a third of the way along, and the again at two thirds, just to start compressing the leather. When you get to the end, put the handle in the clamp and clamp tightly. After an hour or so you will be able to wind it down a bit more as the leather compresses. Keep checking every few hours and tighten when possible. When the epoxy is set, you may now find too much tang sticking out, so you will need to repeat the process - you did cut enough washers, didn't you? When all the washers are on and set, c rivet on the pommel. Shape the handle profile using a belt sander - take it slowly so you don't burn the leather, and use a new, sharp belt of about 40 grit. When you have the shape cut, polish by working up the grits to about 400 - don't use emery or carborundum as they will stain the leather. Finish with carnuaba wax or beeswax, applied hot and rubbed in hard. Hmmm - that post ended up longer than I intended! Also, search on the British Blades forum for"stacked leather handle tutorial". hth Peter This is very informative, The axe helve is curved which may make clamping up quite hard. Any thoughts on this? Maybe in 2 bites to change the angle of the clamps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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