955i Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I need to take the radiator off in my downstairs bathroom to remove wallpaper and want to change the valves while I am at it as the adjuster leaks if you move it from the fully open position. Did it on an upstairs one some time back and there was not much water at all but I guess that was because it is at the top of the system. Tried it the other day and ended up with water coming out for ages as it was presumably emptying all the upstairs radiators through this one. I had drained the hot water system and shut the water off before starting. If I shut off the valves on both ends of all radiators will this reduce the amount of water to deal with as it effectively isolates the one to be removed from the rest of the system? It is a normal boiler with an immersion heater. Any advice gratefully received Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackpowder Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Is your heating system supplied by a header tank. If so you can change valves by using a "radiator valve change kit " which block of the cold feed from the tank and the expansion pipe. Basically rubber bungs. If yours is a closed circuit you will need to drain down the completes system. Blackpowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
955i Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Is your heating system supplied by a header tank. If so you can change valves by using a "radiator valve change kit " which block of the cold feed from the tank and the expansion pipe. Basically rubber bungs. If yours is a closed circuit you will need to drain down the completes system. Blackpowder There is a header tank above the immersion heater, but not sure what it services Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dekers Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Is your heating system supplied by a header tank. If so you can change valves by using a "radiator valve change kit " which block of the cold feed from the tank and the expansion pipe. Basically rubber bungs. If yours is a closed circuit you will need to drain down the completes system. Blackpowder :yes: Can be very effective, and quick, but expect some water loss, also saves refilling a whole system and the cost of additives as well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackpowder Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 There is a header tank above the immersion heater, but not sure what it services Difficult if you are not in the trade and readily identify which pipes go to where from the header tank. Problem is it could also by the supply tank to your hot water storage cylinder, a header tank to your central heating system would only be 10 gallons. If your system is "sealed" there will be either in the boileer or near it a flexible loop with stop valves for filling the radiator system, ansd somewhere a pressure gauge again in,on or near the boiler showing what the pressure is. Blackpowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sonicdmb Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 There is always disposable pipe freezing an aerosol based kit which you could freeze both pipes to the rad and then only have it to drain. the cost is outweighed by the fact you don't have to find close drain anything else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackpowder Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 There is always disposable pipe freezing an aerosol based kit which you could freeze both pipes to the rad and then only have it to drain. the cost is outweighed by the fact you don't have to find close drain anything else. Good plan as long as the system is not filled with anti freeze. Blackpowder Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carpentermark Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) Just drain the system mate. Saves any guess work, allows you to get rid of any air locks and at the same time you can balance the system again and get it working right. Edited February 3, 2014 by carpentermark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dazsl Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 What sort of boiler you got if you have a cylinder thn you have a system boiler this will be feed by a header tank there may be a stop tap if not you will have to tie the ball cock up then drain the system down once you have done this turn the rad valves off on the radiator you want to remove. Loosen the valves on the radiator side don't undo altogether lift the radiator and lay the top on the floor then unscrew it from the valves then carry upside down and empty it to make sure the pipes to the radio are empty find a fitting that will conect to the rad valve with a hose connected too it open the valve then you can take the valve off easy when you now how or get a plumber in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingo15 Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Why not just tighten the nut up on the radiator valve to stop it leaking save you alot of hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
955i Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Why not just tighten the nut up on the radiator valve to stop it leaking save you alot of hassle. Its leaking through the tap, guessing a deteriorated seal so just as easy to replace as fix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daany Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Tighten the packing gland up on the lock shield I'm guessing that's the valve that will be leaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daany Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Tighten the packing gland up on the lock shield I'm guessing that's the valve that will be leaking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingo15 Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 I take it you are on about a normal lock shield radiator valve. If so they do come loose over time. Just tighten it up when fully open. May take a few seconds compared to draining it all down etc. Just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark@mbb Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 We use a co2 freezing kit you should be able to hire a freezing kit at your local hire shop and google what to do it is childs play and will save you a fortune if you need any more info pm me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
955i Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Don't know what you are on about Tighten the packing gland up on the lock shield I'm guessing that's the valve that will be leaking I take it you are on about a normal lock shield radiator valve. If so they do come loose over time. Just tighten it up when fully open. May take a few seconds compared to draining it all down etc. Just an idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 just beware that freezing kits can and do burn the skin if you manage to spill it on your good self, i put a new rad in the bathroom at the weekend connecting it to old tails, i now have a nice blister on my finger thanks to that rothenberger do a good kit from B&Q for under £20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stumfelter Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Look on youtube on how to re-pack the gland which is basically a seal around the stem that comes out of the top of the valve. I use PTFE tape and its a cheap fix and a lot less hassle than draining the system down, Stu. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millrace Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) Right if your half handy,,,,,turn valves of remove rad as normal do what you need with wall,,,,,now get 2 large towels,shifting wrench,grips and valves,,slacken nut at bttm of valve and retighten,now wrap 1 towel round pipe and over floor,lay tools and valve in line where you can reach,now using other towel place over valve forming tent,now reach under hold valve and lossen but keeping valve presses down all under towel,when ready lift valve and put thumb over pipe,there will be a bit of water but the towels get it,now reach other valve line up above thumb/pipe quickly swap and keep valve pressed down now retighten nut,,,,,, yes there will be a bit of water but the towels will get it,only do this if your fairly confident,I do it this way to save draining things down.........make sure new valves are shut before you replace Edited February 3, 2014 by millrace Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
955i Posted February 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 (edited) Look on youtube on how to re-pack the gland which is basically a seal around the stem that comes out of the top of the valve. That sounds like a geek description of w******g Edited February 3, 2014 by 955i Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.