newbod Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Moneys a bit tight this month, which has forced me to lay off the shooting! Crappy i know but it does free old faithfull up for some well needed maintenance. Not an expensive gun by any means, its my rizzini sideplate E, fixed choke. but just because its cheap doesnt mean i cant take a bit of pride in it, the light wood was what first enticed me towards it, but now i wouldnt mind a darker finish. I have also noticed that the stock and fore end are a different shade, the finish is waxed, gets a few new coats each month but it doesnt seem to want to match up. more. more. more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 So what i was wondering was what are my options. Sanding process? stripping solutions? wood dye? end finish wax/sealant? Fairly new to wood finishing, but i have all month to get it done Cheers in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesj Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 You can get a kit to refinish shocks from most gun shops, i got a Trade secret's kit for about £25 and redid my .243 and then semi auto then my over and under and my side by side, you get the idea The kit comes with 3 oils and instructions. stages Step 1 Is some oil based stain if you want to darken the wood, darker you want it the more coats you put on. Step 2 is an oil/ wax that you put on wait for it to go sticky and then rub it in with another oil and you can repeat this step to get the finish you want. My side by side I stopped when i got to a satin finish but on the over and under I kept going until it was a deep hi gloss finish. The worst bit was getting the original lacquer off to start with! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Cheers for the heads up, ill hit my local shop monday. What did you use/do to take off the original lacquer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 Nitromors is okay - but not as good as it used to be. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluesj Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 I used Nitromors. wire wool, a stiff scrubbing brush, 1200 wet and dry and loads of elbow grease. the prep work is the most important bit. I took about 5 days cleaning to old finish off my over and under, another 3 day staining and about a week waxing! One thing be careful with the checkering it doesn't take much to take the tops off the diamonds! once you have it stripped you mat be surprised how much the grain of the wood comes out, my medalist was very plain but under the lacquer was a lovely bit of wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted March 1, 2014 Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 The E Rizzinis varnish is easy to soften Nitromors works as does Acetone. Once the varnish is off sand, stain, seal oil as per a normal refinish they normally come up nicely everyone I've done has had pale wood but come up well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 1, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2014 ok sounds good, nitromors, wire wool, wet and dry, sand stain seal... Any ideas on the action? im guessing autosol and elbow grease will get a tiny result. but I'm not expecting miracles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 On closer looking that's an oil finish I'd just use acetone to remove the finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Yup oil finish it is, i always get confused between wax finish and oil finish. when you say acetone, do you mean just good old nail polish remover? put it on a rag and rub it on the stock until its bare? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 buy b&q own varnish remover its cheaper and DOES NOT SMELL it works great . look at your stock all you are wanting to do is remove the wax so you can start again do not use sandpapper as it will raise the grain . get some wire wool in diff grades . what ever stain you want to finish it in apply the coats to get the finish you want , then some danish oil and coat it with that . trust me the b&q does the job . comes in a white plastic bottle . keep us posted on your work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kent Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Just to elaborate on what others have said regards the chequering, don't take any wet and dry or steel wool or similar to the chequering. In fact mask it of with electricians tape while working with the abrasives full stop and use just chemicals and a very stiff toothbrush. Cut in the edges of the tape panels with a razor blade If you need to use things like Nitromorse, always neutralise it between applications or it can seep into the wood and effect further finishes applied. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Stripped old faithful down this morning ready to get started. Went online after hearing about all the different stripping agents, nitromorse seems to be the biggest brand, but the B&Q stripper seems to have the best reviews, always used after nitromorse fails (and like everything with this gun, its CHEAP!), also stole some of the wife's nail polish remover so i can give that a crack along with B&Q's own brand. When you say neutralize, do you mean slight sand, and wipe down with water. Or am i going to need another agent to neutralize the acidic value? so fairly stiff toothbrush for the chequering, extremely fine wet and dry for everything else. I also watched a "do it yourself video" on youtube, when it came to staining, the guy used two different shades, something like tobacco brown, and an lighter amber colour, it really gave the grain some pop, worth doing? or will the tru oil give the same sort of finish? And again back to the action, its in pretty good condition for what it is, its machine engraved, sideplate so its quite large, but is there anything i can do other than autosol and elbow grease to give it a new lease of life? Cheers for all the help, awesome wealth of knowledge on this forum! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Couple of before and after pictures. after the first stripping process. This was using the B&Q own brand. Instructions on the bottle said to apply and leave for one hour, then apply another coat and leave until it dries, and scrape off. left it for Roughly 3 hours before i cleaned it all off. would it make more of a difference if i left it for say 5 hours? there wasnt much change between 2-3 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted March 2, 2014 Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Don't use her nail varnish remove it has other girl stuff in it. By your name it take it you can get down the QMs and borrow a bottle of pure acetone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2014 Lol, you figured all that out by "newbod" impressive... Will have to ask in the morning Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnphilip Posted March 3, 2014 Report Share Posted March 3, 2014 how did you find the B&Q stripper, i thought it worked very well and did not have that nasty smell the nitro has, looking at your stock i think it need just the wax of . it looks a nice piece of wood and should look great when finished keep posting the results please Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dessyb Posted March 5, 2014 Report Share Posted March 5, 2014 just use meths and wire wool been doinit for years great results.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Bit of an update, been busy this week! Finally stripped everything off and started to stain the wood. the butt had a hint of red in the wood, so i used a mahogony stain on it, and a red mahogony stain on the fore end, one i had got them as close as my eye could tell i started with the tru oil, its coming up very nicely, i want a really glossy finish, so i reckon about 6-7 more coats of tru oil before i start putting her back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzab Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Are you flatting each coat of tru oil when it dries? When I did my LR stock I wet and dried with 1500 grit paper between each coat. Made big difference to final coat. Im currently doing a knife in bog oak (that a absolute star kindly gave me)im on coat 12 at min the flatting makes such a difference. Looks lovely by the way bud. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Munzy Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 As above, flat it between coats and you should get a better finish with less noticeable pores. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newbod Posted March 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 yup, have been rubbing it down with 1200 wet and dry between coats, got tired of it when i did the last coat and didnt rub it down as the finish looked pretty good, now im having to rub it down even more to make up for the bits i didnt with the last coat. the worst problem with this is if i have any drips or runs, they're a bitch to rub down! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FalconFN Posted March 8, 2014 Report Share Posted March 8, 2014 Thinner coats will give a better finish and you won't get drips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nicksyman Posted March 4, 2015 Report Share Posted March 4, 2015 Hi newbod, great finish you got there, have Rizzini E myself that I am going to attempt as a 'project' and any tips and brand names of the products you used would be hugely appreciated. Also as this will be my first attempt at refinishing, in your opinion how difficult was it to do? Thanks N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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