nighteye Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Guys i am applying for my first fac and i am in a new build platerboard house how do i securely fasten it ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danoi99 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 is it your house? if so, can you consider chopping out some plasterboard to get the cabinet flush against the block work? How is the plasterboard fixed to the wall? against batten? or stuck on with LaFarge type splodges of glue? Cuz you might be able to just sink 4 X 8inch pieces of thread bar into the blocks, secured with AnchorFix glue. Then it's just big washers and a bolt on each one..........done up from the inside of the cabinet. It's the easiest way I reckon. Put the cabinet against the wall.............mark your hole (ooh er).............take cabinet out..................drill a hugely oversized hole for the thread bar................blow all the dust out (mind yer eyes mate)............Fill each hole with AnchorFix 2 part epoxy resin ( B&Q sell it, probably near all the fencing stuff. It's about £10 a tube)...................put the cabinet back...............poke the bars in..............wipe away the excess goop that comes out....................wait 24 hours then pop a couple of washers on...............do up your nuts (ooh err) not too tight.......there's no need to go mad. Then have a little tug at your cabinet and marvel at the power of Anchorfix Resin. The stuff is seriously mental !!! The whole lot : Thread bar, washers, bolts and Anchorfix should only set you back around £20+ Sod using all these expensive expanding bolts.............never gonna be as strong as AnchorFix matey. DO NOT USE ANCHORFIX IN A RENTED PROPERTY !!!!!!!!!!!!! Landlord will have a head fit !!!!!!!!!! ps. Is does pong a bit when curing................you have been warned. If your house is all timber frame..............you're ********!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brett1985 Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 Find one of the main beams behing the plasterboard and affix it to that. Before reaming it up tight, cover the back of the cabinet in a strong grab adhesive. by the time its fixed and dried youd have to remove the whole bloomin wall to get it off! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
victorismyhero Posted March 16, 2014 Report Share Posted March 16, 2014 (edited) Lay it down and bolt to the floor...dont drill too deep or you will break the waterproof membrane under the concrete, however should you accidently do that ...just bung the hole full of silicon sealer before whanging up the expanding bolts tight....(DAMHIKT) OR...use thunderbolts and some of that fast grab gunge....anyone trying to pry THAT up would remove half the floor with it.. Finally...if its plasterboard over timber...get a steel plate the same size as your safe (3mm thick) and drilled to the same pattern....remove plasterboard either side of timbering (you have to KNOW where the studding is) and put plate one side cabinet the other...fix with security nuts and good studs then make good..... This works very well if you have those infernal block walls.... Edited March 16, 2014 by victorismyhero Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
team tractor Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) I've known me just fix into the timbre with coach screws and it's fine . If you put a plate the other side what's to stop you cutting the studding Edited March 17, 2014 by team tractor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kingo15 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Id go with the lay it flat if you can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 All your studs will be on either 400 or 600 centres, most likely the latter, so you can bolt one side (left or right) top and bottom to stud material and simply glue the other side with chemical fixing form a mastic gun. To find a stud measure out 400 or 600 from an internal corner and drill a pilot hole to locate stud. Simples. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
henry d Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) Mine is similar construction and I was able to lay it flat and use coach bolts to fix it to the joists, been ok for 20 yr. A plus point is that any oil tends not to creep towards the stock. Edited March 17, 2014 by henry d Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodcock1 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 When I lived in a timber frame house I had the police carry out an inspection as I was applying for my first rifle. They turned the cabinet down as it was only fixed to the timber framework using bolts. They said it needed to be bolted to the floor , so I just kept it where it was and put 4 thunderbolts through the base of it into the concrete floor which the passed no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) Fix to an outside external wall, chances are the plasterboard on the external wall is dot and dabbed. Get a 20mm bit from any hardware store, your local Homebase or B and Q probably won't carry them, you'll likely need a Builders Centre, HSS or Screwfix something along those lines, and use 75mm rawl bolts, thats what I did. The bolts although mighty large, grip into the blocks very well. I suspect the blocks are thermalite or plasmor if a new house, so hence the neccessity for the larger fixing as the smaller ones just pull out due to the blocks being light and aerated. I see above some say fix to the floor, somebody has already said watch you don't puncture the DPM, quite correct as this will void your NHBC gurantee, also, if yours is a new house, I suspect you may have under floor heating, if so, stay well away from floor fixing, if you punture the underfloor heating, you definitely are ******!! Edited March 17, 2014 by lloydi73 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gee. Posted March 17, 2014 Report Share Posted March 17, 2014 Im having a detached new build built and I spoke to my FEO about this last weekend and he said its will be ok to screw it to a stud (would be one vert only) and then bolt the bottom to the floor. He said if its going upstairs instead of downstairs, there would not be a problem coach bolting it to the wooden floor at its base. Lying it down is another option as mentioned already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wiltsmark Posted March 18, 2014 Report Share Posted March 18, 2014 Fix to an outside external wall, chances are the plasterboard on the external wall is dot and dabbed. Get a 20mm bit from any hardware store, your local Homebase or B and Q probably won't carry them, you'll likely need a Builders Centre, HSS or Screwfix something along those lines, and use 75mm rawl bolts, thats what I did. The bolts although mighty large, grip into the blocks very well. I suspect the blocks are thermalite or plasmor if a new house, so hence the neccessity for the larger fixing as the smaller ones just pull out due to the blocks being light and aerated. I see above some say fix to the floor, somebody has already said watch you don't puncture the DPM, quite correct as this will void your NHBC gurantee, also, if yours is a new house, I suspect you may have under floor heating, if so, stay well away from floor fixing, if you punture the underfloor heating, you definitely are ******!! There is no Dot and Dab (drylining) in a timber framed house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Yea, I missed the clue in the title, "Timber Framed" and assumed Brick and Block....More attention to detail.......But I was at work at bthe time sneaking a crafty look on here in my defence..lol.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nighteye Posted March 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 thanks for the replys guys , really really appreciate you all taking the time to answer . I think i will ask the opinion of the feo as to which he/she prefers and depending on his/her answer then i will try one of the aforementioned suggestions , i am in a rented property but will never be moving due to it being purpose built . The co-terminous application went in on monday so here goes , wish me luck ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lloydi73 Posted March 19, 2014 Report Share Posted March 19, 2014 Good luck Nighteye. let us know how you get on.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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