bazzab Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hi all. I've just started tidying up a A5 Browning. The stock is almost black around grip. Ive given it a really good scrub has removed some but its still a totally different colour around checkering. Ive purchased a re checkering tool in the hope it would reveal fresh wood but wood is still black where ive cut. Any suggestions? Or will it be easier to get replacement stock?? Many thanks. Bazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 The blackening is oil saturation it need to be removed or will soften the stock. Unfortunately you'll have to do a complete strip and refinish. there's a few ways to do it but none of them quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzab Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Thank you mate. Any tips on removing it at all?? Many thanks Bazza Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 once you have stripped it, use a hair drier on it and keep wiping it off with white spirit....as the wood heats up it will "sweat" the oil out dont get it too hot or if you have a cast to it ...it will revert...... to clean the chequering get a very fine stailess steel or bronze wire brush and gently "stroke " one way with the cut of the chequering...(the bronze brush you can get from a shoe shop ,,,used for suede shoes) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Hi all. I've just started tidying up a A5 Browning. The stock is almost black around grip. Ive given it a really good scrub has removed some but its still a totally different colour around checkering. Ive purchased a re checkering tool in the hope it would reveal fresh wood but wood is still black where ive cut. Any suggestions? Or will it be easier to get replacement stock?? Many thanks. Bazza There is some good advice above... do take some pictures and add them here if you can...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Acetone works well Midway have done a video if it's really bad and you have time old school whitening works well but very slow. Please done use stainless steel on oil soaked chequering the wood is soft the stainless will damage it a brass suede brush is ok. But a stiff toothbrush and acetone and a little time is the cleanest and safest way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon R Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I have successfully used bleach to get rid of the dark colour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzab Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Fantastic advice. Thank you chaps really am grateful. Ill give that a bash on my next days off. (Better borrow my mates garage dont think the wife will like fumes in our place!!! Ill start a new thread tonight with current pics. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
malkiserow Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 If you get stuck on acetone or surgical spirit, you can use your (wife's) nail varnish remover Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonwolf444 Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I sat a forend in white spirit while i went on holiday, when i cam back the white spirit was the color of olive oil! James. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 I sat a forend in white spirit while i went on holiday, when i cam back the white spirit was the color of olive oil! James. thats interesting ?.....wonder if it worked like osmosis ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzab Posted June 18, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Wow your braver than me I have to say. Id be terrified. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Acetone works well Midway have done a video if it's really bad and you have time old school whitening works well but very slow. Please done use stainless steel on oil soaked chequering the wood is soft the stainless will damage it a brass suede brush is ok. But a stiff toothbrush and acetone and a little time is the cleanest and safest way. point well made....the stainless brush i have is quite soft and about the size of a childs toothbrush...i use them for tinning when im gas welding aluminium onthe new generation of alloy rods if it was your standard stainless steel brush it certainaly would leave marks........ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 18, 2014 Report Share Posted June 18, 2014 Acetone or white sprite for a week will sort most out there are faster but more risky ways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ditchman Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Acetone or white sprite for a week will sort most out there are faster but more risky ways. Do you think it would damage the wood if you soaked it in carbon-tetra-chloride...its the stuff they use in dry cleaners ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazzab Posted June 19, 2014 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 This is getting technical!!!! Hahahaha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welshwarrior Posted June 19, 2014 Report Share Posted June 19, 2014 Do you think it would damage the wood if you soaked it in carbon-tetra-chloride...its the stuff they use in dry cleaners ? I don't know but would have thought it should be ok. If it can be used on a best bespoke suit or your silk bed sheets without fear. Try it on an old damaged stock and see. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loriusgarrulus Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Carbon-tetra-chloride is a carcinogen . Don't think the dry cleaners use it anymore. We had to use a chemical fume cuboard and special gloves in the lab to use it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les*1066 Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 Thank you mate. Any tips on removing it at all?? Many thanks Bazza Try using one of those hand-held steamers .... they work wonders on old stocks, Such as:- http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_trksid=p3984.m570.l1313.TR4.TRC1.A0.H0.Xhand+held+steamer&_nkw=hand+held+steamer&_sacat=0&_from=R40 They will also lift the fibres of the wood, but a bit of light sanding will soon have your stock sorted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonwolf444 Posted July 17, 2014 Report Share Posted July 17, 2014 (edited) thats interesting ?.....wonder if it worked like osmosis ? Acetone is meant to be the best but even when i went to farm supply with a flat cap on i couldn't get hold of any ( except in 55 gallon drums which was a bit much ) so tried the white spirit. It seems to displace the oil, then obviously the white spirit evaporates out of the wood. Probably would not hurt to take it in and out every 24h using fresh white spirit each time. Edit, i left mine on the window sill in the sun while on holiday for a week or two and it certainly drew a lot of oil and gunk out. Scrubbing with a tooth brush was a good call as well. I know with the old mosin nagant stocks and mill surp AK's in the states people strip the stocks and sit them in bleach for a while as they are caked and stained with all sorts. Edited July 17, 2014 by demonwolf444 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
figgy Posted July 21, 2014 Report Share Posted July 21, 2014 You will get acetone from old fashioned chemist. I prefer heat to remove the oil as the solvents also remove the resins from the wood. If you use a hair drier you don't get fumes as the oil just appears on the surface like sweat on your skin hence the name sweating it out. When no more will come out wipe it over with solvent to remove the traces. Or send it off to be done by a pro. Figgy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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