Paddy Galore! Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 I think it would need re pointing beford I was to paint it, I tryed a patch with caustic soda and its not even touching it ! What price do yo charge for painting ?? Hi Royboy, depends if you wanted to do the prep yourself, there's a lot of work there, the painting is the easy bit, will that conservatory take the weight of a youngman board and a 14st bloke? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 I'm not sure !! I'd have to ask my mate who is a conservatory fitter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyn2233 Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 I'm not sure !! I'd have to ask my mate who is a conservatory fitterroof should be fine mate easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBS Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 Blast and point it once, or paint it every year wishing you had blasted and pointed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 7, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 I do want it back to brick but what worries me is if I pay out £3200 for blast and pointing and the bricks look **** then I'll have to fork out to get it renderd. I know it's the chance ive got to take but it's a lot of money to throw down the drain. I've got to do the drive and back garden yet ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted March 7, 2015 Report Share Posted March 7, 2015 http://permarock.com/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 http://permarock.com/That's looks good stuff but also looks expensive ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pegleg31 Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) edited to say it's a poly carb roof, thought it was another type that you insert aluminium bars into. If you lay crawlers across the structure of the roof you'll be ok to work off it. Edited March 8, 2015 by pegleg31 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paddy Galore! Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 I do want it back to brick but what worries me is if I pay out £3200 for blast and pointing and the bricks look **** then I'll have to fork out to get it renderd. I know it's the chance ive got to take but it's a lot of money to throw down the drain. I've got to do the drive and back garden yet ! Hi Roy, it's not money down the drain buddy it's investing in the future value of your house. how much of it needs pointing? what is the state of the brickwork? are there any loose or broken? how hard are the bricks? are they soft and crumbly like Norfolk reds? and finally, how much of the work are you confident in taking on yourself? I worked on the house of a prominent banker a few years back, and while he wanted the dogs danglies for a kitchen and orangery, he left the poor old brickwork at the back of the house for the painters to sort, now i'm not slagging off painters in general but they aren't the brightest of tradesmen, they did try to paint it all but with crumbling lime mortar and even crumblier red brick it looked a ******* mess. over £400k was spent doing the place up, only to have a minor bit of penny pinching ruin the back of the house entirely. I would suggest that if your walls are fubar, and your budget is tight, then wait and save, while doing as much as you're comfortable with yourself, there must be a few of the PW massive nearby willing to help for a drink or two. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted March 8, 2015 Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 (edited) Do not put any more paint on that house,it desperately needs repointing ,no paint would ever stay there as the joints are void of mortar,i can see moss growing in the joints,which means the whole area will be damp. I would also not consider rendering it as this only traps damp behind the cement based mortar and still needs further coats of paint,all of which does not allow the property to breathe. Take up the quotation for the blasting and pointing,it is a very competitive quote and would mean no further costs,but I would still ask for two more written itemised quotations. Trust me,i have the qualifications,experience to back up what I have said. Edited March 8, 2015 by vampire Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Do not put any more paint on that house,it desperately needs repointing ,no paint would ever stay there as the joints are void of mortar,i can see moss growing in the joints,which means the whole area will be damp. I would also not consider rendering it as this only traps damp behind the cement based mortar and still needs further coats of paint,all of which does not allow the property to breathe. Take up the quotation for the blasting and pointing,it is a very competitive quote and would mean no further costs,but I would still ask for two more written itemised quotations. Trust me,i have the qualifications,experience to back up what I have said. I'm going to go and have a meeting with the back next weekend, I was looking at the house today and it realy winds me up ! Inside is mint and outside is a dive ! Sand blasting is the way forward, I'm getting another number tomorrow for a local family firm for blasting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 Hi Roy, it's not money down the drain buddy it's investing in the future value of your house. how much of it needs pointing? what is the state of the brickwork? are there any loose or broken? how hard are the bricks? are they soft and crumbly like Norfolk reds? and finally, how much of the work are you confident in taking on yourself? I worked on the house of a prominent banker a few years back, and while he wanted the dogs danglies for a kitchen and orangery, he left the poor old brickwork at the back of the house for the painters to sort, now i'm not slagging off painters in general but they aren't the brightest of tradesmen, they did try to paint it all but with crumbling lime mortar and even crumblier red brick it looked a ******* mess. over £400k was spent doing the place up, only to have a minor bit of penny pinching ruin the back of the house entirely. I would suggest that if your walls are fubar, and your budget is tight, then wait and save, while doing as much as you're comfortable with yourself, there must be a few of the PW massive nearby willing to help for a drink or two. It's a hard Accrington brick so I think it should look ok blasted, I'm willing to work on the house but sometimes not sure what I'm doing ! I'm a car mechanic ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
activeviii Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 shot size 7.5 and 1/4 choke from 15 yards You would miss. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) Due to the age of the property I would be surprised if the property had cavity wall insulation unless its been installed retrospectively. Breathing of the building will not be an issue as only the external skin will be damp due to seasonal weather variations. I would imagine the EPC value of the property would also be quite low, say D or E unless you have beefed up the thickness of loft insulation in the roof space. (Do this if you haven’t so you have a minimum of 300mm) I wouldn’t discount rendering, especially if you don’t want to go to the trouble of Cyclical repainting. Using a insulated render system (and there are plenty on the Market ) will not only improve your overall U value it will greatly improve the EPC rating of the building which means Lower annual energy bills for you. I wouldn’t consider painting again, and like I said previously it was painted for a reason, I would imagine this was in part because the brickwork was in poor condition. There used to be Local Authority backed incentive schemes for insulated rendering under the Government Energy saving initiative these were either discounted or grant aided. Might be worth a call to the Local Authority or a search of their website to see if anything is available currently in this case. Could you post up some dimensions of the area of external wall in question and I could then give you some comparative costs for insulated render and/or decoration. Edited March 9, 2015 by Fisherman Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keg Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Mike, What is your view on aftermarket installation? The only reason I ask is that a chap writes a column in the Daily Telegraph. he is a builder as well but slates aftermarket cavity wall insulation and render, claiming it causes cold spots because it goes on\in unevenly. I'm thinking about getting it done myself, hence my question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) Key to it is indeed correct installation. I can only speak from experience of having carried out refurbishment contracts involving over a 1000 properties regionally in the last 10 years with retrospectively applied cavity wall insulation. I haven't heard of any of them having any damp problems or other detrimental issues. Personally I prefer the cavity to do what it was designed to do though and that is to provide a barrier to moisture... so I would always advocate an internal or external insulation system. Saying that modern mineral fibre blown insulation is completely impervious and we even use it on New build properties in cavities up to 125 thick. Whatever system you consider make sure its covered by the relevant BBA certification and is installed in accordance with the industry Code of Practice. These links might help. http://regulations.completepicture.co.uk/pdf/Energy%20Conservation/Insulation/Cavity%20wall%20insulation%20in%20existing%20housing.pdf http://www.markgroup.co.uk/homeowners/insulation/cavity-wall-insulation Edited March 9, 2015 by Fisherman Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) I've seen a picture of the house in the 60s and It was painted then with paint peeling off the gable end ! The house was built in 1950 so surely it wasn't painted to hide something ?? It's also got insulated cavity walls and attic Edited March 9, 2015 by Royboy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fisherman Mike Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 I've seen a picture of the house in the 60s and It was painted then with paint peeling off the gable end ! The house was built in 1950 so surely it wasn't painted to hide something ?? Many LA properties were built after 1945 using regraded engineering bricks which sadly spalled quite quickly. Does the brickwork look in reasonable condition or is it spalling. It wouldn't have cavity insulation either I would imagine. How much insulation have you in the loft.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Royboy Posted March 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 The cavitys are filled with little Polystyrene balls and the loft has thick insulation, my heating bills arnt bad at all. The brick looks in ok condition to be honest. I'm going to ring a few people in my dinner today and get some advise. They will know by just coming and looking at it surely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 Mike, What is your view on aftermarket installation? The only reason I ask is that a chap writes a column in the Daily Telegraph. he is a builder as well but slates aftermarket cavity wall insulation and render, claiming it causes cold spots because it goes on\in unevenly. I'm thinking about getting it done myself, hence my question The builder you have quoted saying it causes cold spots is right.Study has shown that not all areas get even insulation thus creating a super cold spot intensifying condensation in some instances,do a thermal image before and after. If you are having it done and the advantages are obvious,make sure the drill bit is sharp,have seen guys doing it with 25mm bit that was blunt and large lumps of brick falling into cavity,would make my old lecturer weep. Loft insulation is worse,have done numerous surveys after people have had loft insulated only to find they have created a thermal bridge by not insulating over the plate and down to the cavity wall. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scully Posted March 9, 2015 Report Share Posted March 9, 2015 (edited) The builder you have quoted saying it causes cold spots is right.Study has shown that not all areas get even insulation thus creating a super cold spot intensifying condensation in some instances,do a thermal image before and after. If you are having it done and the advantages are obvious,make sure the drill bit is sharp,have seen guys doing it with 25mm bit that was blunt and large lumps of brick falling into cavity,would make my old lecturer weep. Loft insulation is worse,have done numerous surveys after people have had loft insulated only to find they have created a thermal bridge by not insulating over the plate and down to the cavity wall. Ditto. We were asked to inspect the cavity walls of a local house after the owner claimed cold/damp bridging in a gable wall, using a flexible inspection light coupled to a screen similar to the ones used by Dyno rod etc. We found in some places the insulation had slumped and in one place couldn't find any at all. I have no experience of cavity wall insulation so don't know how much (if any) feedback the operator has when injecting through such a tiny nozzle. The smallest we inject through is about 2" and an experienced operator when using either Warmcel or Thermoflok is left in no doubt as to what is going on inside the cavity, even to the extent they can tell when the lance has turned. We have mostly stopped using flexible injection hoses now (unless on site) and only use a rigid curved lance in the unit but still core or drill both ends of a cavity to make sure there are no 'holes'. I can see there coming a time soon, when thermal imaging will become an integral part of the building industry, if not building reg's, especially in our field of SIPS. I'm of the opinion that the filling of a cavity designed to prevent moisture bridging is never a good thing. Edited March 9, 2015 by Scully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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