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Little comb repair.


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Cosmetic repair; didn't quite get the result i wanted but its not too bad.

 

IMG-20150615-01391_zpsqzi2wjo0.jpg

 

Thought i would use that black mineral deposit to help hide the repair.

 

IMG-20150615-01393_zpsbfiw5ffo.jpg

 

The color match looked quite good to begin with.

 

IMG-20150615-01394_zpskkrlwvim.jpg

 

block attached to shape down.

 

IMG-20150615-01398_zpsx9irlwoa.jpg

 

Just followed the original lines of the stock which took the comb to more of a thin point that i would have liked, i haven't sanded or removed any of my marks yet, the color is lighter than i wanted, honestly if you didn't know it was previously broken you might just assume its a bit of sap wood or something, I'm hoping if and when i refinish it some clever staining will make it blend a little more, it just needs a bit of a coffee orange tint to it..

 

The measurements for the drop are perfect for me but the stock is an inch and a half too short for me I'm actually quite a short guy but i shoot longer stocks better, 14 1/2 LOP is okay but 15 inches is better, i haven't actually measured this one as from day one i put a over the top leather pad on which adds about 3/4 of an inch but i think its somewhere between 13 - 13 1/2 inches. I would quite like to find a better color match before extending.

 

 

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You've made an excellent job of that. I like the way you have used the natural grain of the wood. I would be quite happy with that, but look forward to seeing it to your own satisfaction.

Ever thought of a leather covered recoil pad to lengthen the LOP, as with your obvious skill, you would find this relatively easy, and would look great.

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You've made an excellent job of that. I like the way you have used the natural grain of the wood. I would be quite happy with that, but look forward to seeing it to your own satisfaction.

Ever thought of a leather covered recoil pad to lengthen the LOP, as with your obvious skill, you would find this relatively easy, and would look great.

If you wanted to go with this James, I'll send you some leather.

 

Nice repair.

 

Mike.

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You've made an excellent job of that. I like the way you have used the natural grain of the wood. I would be quite happy with that, but look forward to seeing it to your own satisfaction.

Ever thought of a leather covered recoil pad to lengthen the LOP, as with your obvious skill, you would find this relatively easy, and would look great.

 

Thanks decoyer, the join and such is all fine, i might take 1mm or half a mm off the radius as i can't decide if its a bit sharp there or not, its just been sanded roughly in the pictures, sometimes just a tint with some stain's can just make it a shade darker and then your eye will look right past it, or at least that's the hope. I'm thinking possibly either a silvers pad or a leather covered pad, wood extension wouldn't bother me but the wood has such a clean distinctive grain to it it would look nicer to stick a pad on or something.

 

Very well executed repair there :yes:

 

Well done :good:

 

Cheers Lord Geordie much appreciated.

 

Well done James should blend in a bit better if you refinish the stock making it hard to see even when looking.

 

I'm hoping your right, i spent a good 20 minutes going through scraps and off cuts trying to get a color match and i was sure i had the perfect match.

 

If you wanted to go with this James, I'll send you some leather.

 

Nice repair.

 

Mike.

 

Quite possibly might follow you up on that I'm certainly leaning in that direction!

 

Excellent work.

 

Cheers Gordon much appreciated!

 

The guns something a little different, quite early its a Lang of London tranters patent 1881 top lever opening and cocking on a trigger plate action, very interesting and well made mechanism, there is a a flat spring steel spring which acts as the top lever/ under bolt spring which is going to be an absolute nightmare to make, the current spring is very week and I'm not convinced its the original spring as its poorly fit and finished when every other part is polished nearly to a mirror. A spring would improve it immeasurably, its sadly out of proof originally proofed 13m 14b not for ball both barrels, needs tightening up just a touch. In the past it may have got a proof exemption but they are no longer issued due to abuse of the system ( according to the proof master ) I'm contemplating black powder only reproof as its a fine gun measuring 20 thou minimum in both barrels ( from memory ) but I'm not convinced it would pass NP though i really have very little experience of submitting for reproof, it might just have to be a learning experience and I'll try and find a smith to tutor me on the process. I haven't decided what I'm doing.

 

Photo's of this unusual mechanism.

 

IMG-20150521-01310_zpsxwgqbj7j.jpg

 

The safety appears to intercept the hammers and the triggers.

 

IMG-20150521-01309_zpskfokjdfn.jpg

 

The forend has a patented spring loaded roller as the catch ( for got the name but its just an interesting feature )

 

IMG-20150521-01293_zpsfdmvakpf.jpg

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I have done four or five adjustable combs and increased the comb height on another. However, neat though my joint was, it was still noticeably present. Yours is cleverly blended into the grain. It could easily be brought to the same colour as the rest.

I know my own skills and also my own limitations. perhaps "excellent work" sold you a little short.

 

:good::good: :good:

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  • 2 months later...

I have fitted a silvers no4 recoil pad in best london orange which gives it excellent LOP.

 

IMG-20150830-01626_zpsuqottwb4.jpg

 

Holes to plug.

 

IMG-20150830-01627_zpskkaz9a2i.jpg

 

10 mm Plugs.

 

IMG-20150830-01628_zpsfa653zsp.jpg

 

Marked the drill bit and drilled the screw holes out to 10mm then plugged the holes.

 

IMG-20150830-01629_zpsgrvffgyw.jpg

 

Trimmed off the excess.

 

 

IMG-20150830-01631_zpswsbdfncc.jpg

 

Shaped the spurr a little.

 

IMG-20150830-01632_zps8xs36snr.jpg

 

inlet the spur.. the pad comes err.... oversize.

 

IMG-20150830-01633_zpslkqldhqm.jpg

 

took some of the excess off.

 

IMG-20150830-01634_zpsobshoink.jpg

 

Making sure to follow the lines of the stock and leave plenty of meat around the pad.

 

IMG-20150830-01635_zpsbtbstlyi.jpg

 

Initial pad grinding.

 

IMG-20150830-01637_zpsf9o8h4mi.jpg

 

I suppose at this point i should clear the air and admit that i do wear crocs from time to time; so convenient.

 

IMG-20150830-01642_zpsshzgt3hh.jpg

 

Burnished the pad.

 

IMG-20150830-01643_zpskp2a7wsp.jpg

 

I couldn't help myself put a bit of oil on just to see how the wood will finish up.

 

IMG-20150830-01646_zpsnjetivul.jpg

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The repair is obviously going to stand out, so i have decided to do some colour blending on it.

 

Before:

 

IMG-20150908-01688_zpsh4atlbqn.jpg

 

After colouring;

 

IMG-20150908-01689_zpszkcucpse.jpg

 

The one thing now making the repair obvious is the flatt edge of the mineral line where i have joined the new piece; i will address this soon. The point of this repair is to try and make it as discrete as possible.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Lots of ways to go about it, the lowest tech solution is to put aside a day and start with some 40 grit paper using a file as a backer and grind it down, protect the stock with a double layer of masking tape, unless your going to refinish as well. Make sure the heal and toe lines are following the rest of the lines of the stock or the job looks gash - Its slow and boring work but i have done it before and you can do a good job with this method you just need to persevere

 

You can speed things up by carefully sawing off the excess but still leave plenty of excess, and if your confident you can use any kind of electric sander to remove some excess, random orbitals work, belt sanders can be used at a pinch, but remember one slip and you can tear that masking tape and ruin the finish.

 

On this job i used the bandsaw to remove large excess over hanging parts, following up with a linisher to grind the worst of it off, following up with a random orbital from 180 grit up to 1200 to burnish, as i really was not worried about the finish as i'm going to refinish anyway.

 

If you have some shop skills you can make a simple fixture to aid in the grinding of pads, or you can buy one from brownells, its probably worth while if you see yourself fitting a few - there are some more good tips in this video which may help you make a better job of things.

 

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Picked out the checkering, Once i'm done with this gun it will probably be used relatively regularly for game shooting so i have cut to full depth which is not to everyone's taste but it is to mine, In three of four years it will wear down till its slightly less aggressive I'm still working on the forend not enough hours in the day at the moment, really struggling to find any time for anything a bout of flu this week gave me an excuse to sit, listen to the radio in the sun and checker with a cup of tea.

 

Apologies for the poor picture quality.

 

IMG-20151001-01703_zpsycaopgk5.jpg

 

IMG-20151001-01704_zpsxyivqcgs.jpg

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