Faulty side lock trigger

[triumphant59]

One for the gunsmiths on here. I recently bought a Union Armera sidelock 12 with a faulty left barrel trigger. I’ve removed both locks and both are cocking ok, safety catch works ok. Looking at the 2 locks there does appear to be a bigger gap between the intercepting sear and the sear levers (the bit where the trigger actuates the Sears) on the left hand lock. Could it be that the left trigger is actuating the sear but not the intercepting sear and therefore not releasing the hammer?

[matone]

So the sear levers are engaging the trigger blade ok ?

They have a clearance when cocked?

Edited November 21, 2019 by matone

[triumphant59]

Can feel resistance when pulling left trigger but hammer doesn’t release which makes me think the intercepting sear lever has got bent somehow so that the trigger blade does not engage. I’m nervous of trying to bend the lever cold?

[panoma1]

1 hour ago, triumphant59 said:

Can feel resistance when pulling left trigger but hammer doesn’t release which makes me think the intercepting sear lever has got bent somehow so that the trigger blade does not engage. I’m nervous of trying to bend the lever cold?

I don’t know whether it’s relevant, but I recall reports about the metal used in some foreign guns, primarily Spanish, as being ‘soft’ so your thoughts of it bending might be correct?

[bruno22rf]

With the lock removed, can you trip the hammer by hand? Pics might help.

[figgy]

When they say the metal is soft they don't mean it's like lead. It just don't wear as well and won't keep a sharp sear for as long.

Much like knife blades of various grades of steel and hardening.

Try bending it a little, after all it's bent when used cold. Some gorilla may have pulled hard on the trigger if a dear failed to disengage or a toogot jammed with crud bending it.

[JJsDad]

6 hours ago, matone said:

They have a clearance when cocked?

As matone has pointed out, there should be a slight clearance between the nose of the safety sear and its bent on the hammer when the lock is cocked on the main sear. If you have a means of clamping/compressing the safety sear spring, I would suggest removing the safety sear and its spring and then re-assembling the lock and dry firing it. This would establish which sear is causing the problem. From your explanation it is difficult to know if it is the main sear or the safety sear. Testing by removing the safety sear would establish which sear is causing the problem.

If you dont have a means of compressing the small vee spring* that holds the safety sear in engagement with the hub of the hammer, I would leave well alone and get a gunsmith to look at it. Messing around with the angle of either sear nose is a reciept for disaster if you dont know what you are doing and could be the cause of your problem.

*Note: Depending on the make of gun, this could also be a single leg leaf spring.

Edited November 21, 2019 by JJsDad

[triumphant59]

Thank you all for your suggestions, I think the gorilla pulling too hard on the trigger is most likely! (Not me) I think I’ll take to a gunsmith to carry out a relatively simple adjustment rather than risking breaking a sear!!

[JohnfromUK]

Where triggers and safety are concerned I would always go to an experienced gunsmith.  Whilst interesting to diagnose the problem and understand the issues, experience is key in doing the adjustments.

[triumphant59]

Sound advice Johnfromuk

[Gunman]

So many things it could be .sears , cocking , trigger blade . Without stripping down and looking it could be any one or a combination . Best take to someone who has had some experience of sidelocks . Might only need a little adjustment but where and how is the question and very easy to get wrong .