turbo33 Posted May 20, 2021 Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 I had to destroy a couple of floor tiles to trace a leak in the central heating. Needless to say, the tiles are no longer available! Its a small area, 4mx1.7. The tiles have a slightly gloss/uneven surface. The options are to rip the whole lot up and start again, which is a hideous thought for a variety of reasons. So could I have some advice as to the way to prep and spread floor leveller over these prior to laying vinyl. I would like to get away with the minimum amount, fill the grout and down to 1mm in door thresholds. Can anyone advise...primer, leveller etc. I have a reasonable level of skill, can plaster, so would I be up to this? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanto Posted May 20, 2021 Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 First, check that the tiles are well fixed. If they are, patch in the holes with sand/cement(pva/SBR to prime), then scrub tiles to make sure there is no polish layers, then prime with SBR/water, let dry till slightly tacky and level with any cement-based self levelling compound, normally available at all builders merchants. You'll get 4-5m2 from a bag at 3mm thick. Remember that levelling compound will level so if the whole floor is off then it will want to run that way to a certain extent. Fill any holes with silicone first or it will disappear! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 Thank you Yanto. Would Sika SikaCem PVA be suitable as a primer? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yanto Posted May 20, 2021 Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 It will give you priming recommendations on the bag of levelling, but any building PVA or SBR bonding agent is generally compatible with cement based levelling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 Thanks Yanto. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
timps Posted May 20, 2021 Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 2 hours ago, turbo33 said: Thank you Yanto. Would Sika SikaCem PVA be suitable as a primer? I wouldn’t use PVA on a floor as PVA remains water soluble after drying so any damp and it will reconstitute back to its former liquid state, I’ve investigated quite a few jobs where this has happened and floors are more likely to suffer damp issues. SBR is not water soluble after drying so I’d go for an SBR primer for flooring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted May 20, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 20, 2021 Sound advice Timps, thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modafinale Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Forget all the above advise ! clean the tiles with soapy water and let dry fill the void with a repair mortar. screed the tiles with Ardex NA as per instructions and use a spiked roller to remove your trowel marks . That’s what a pro should use ( ps I do it 5 days a week) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
millrace Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 Pva....love it......lol Should be banned from use cause no one reads what it is actully suitable for!! There are appropriate compounds for this go to tile / vinyll shop ring a local dunlop/sika rep and get proper advice general laytex at 1mm over tiles will just turn to dust!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Neal Posted May 21, 2021 Report Share Posted May 21, 2021 I'd take the tiles up if it was me. You can then get a proper thickness of levelling compound on, and it will be much more securely bonded to what's under the tiles rather than the surface of them. Actually if it was me I'd just re-tile it. I'm not a massive fan of vinyl! You've probably thought of this already but are there no tiles hidden under anything that you could carefully take up and use to replace the broken ones? Alternatively, if you can take up the last row at each end of the floor and salvage a couple, then replace those rows with something to contrast the rest, like a sort of border? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lampro Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Give them a scrub and use Ardex Na I use nothing else on my jobs its great stuff garrentee it won't budge or crack.on your tiles.no.need to.prime 11 hours ago, Modafinale said: Forget all the above advise ! clean the tiles with soapy water and let dry fill the void with a repair mortar. screed the tiles with Ardex NA as per instructions and use a spiked roller to remove your trowel marks . That’s what a pro should use ( ps I do it 5 days a week) 👍.only 5 I'm.sick of working Saturdays on.my knees Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Modafinale Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 I will work weekends , but the price is eye watering 👍🏻 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
turbo33 Posted May 22, 2021 Author Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Thanks for all the replies chaps..........🤔 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vampire Posted May 22, 2021 Report Share Posted May 22, 2021 Mapei 3240 then Sika rapid dpm,follow instructions for primer on bag. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 23, 2021 Report Share Posted May 23, 2021 (edited) Ahh we are in a similar boat but fortunately the leak wasn’t under our tiles. I’ve uncovered all the pipe in our living room screed so have the channels to fill In once the plumber has replaced the pipe. The damp proof is interesting as it’s a 17th century house and they have laid a tar layer but it’s that good we never found our leak as the water was going downwards as fast as you filled In the system. I’m debating whether to screed the pipes or use self levelling so any advice would be great Edited May 23, 2021 by al4x Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Neal Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Pipes should be wrapped in Denso tape to prevent cement bonding to them, hence allowing slip during flexing of floor so as not to break the pipes or their joints. If it's just chased out to get to the pipes you can just screed it back up level with existing, no great skill needed, 4:1 sharp:cement, easy job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
al4x Posted May 24, 2021 Report Share Posted May 24, 2021 Many thanks, that’s confirmed what I was thinking was the best way forward Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.