Nervous springer

[ShootingEgg]

I rescued a springer a year ago today, he is a cracking little pup with great lines, but due to his first few months, is very un-socialised, was with breader for 4 months then with his first owner for 3 weeks. Picked him up at 5months old. He has been and still is nervous on lead when he sees other dogs and if people approach him, I am able to tell people that he is nervous and to not lunge at him. But if he sees another dog he will bark and will then back .. he is getting better but I'm starting to struggle getting it out of him. Off lead he is fine with other dogs. 

Any hints and tips on solving this or getting him to the next stage .. would be very welcomed 

Edited July 2, 2023 by ShootingEgg

[Ultrastu]

Leave him off the lead .

I very rarely walk my springer on a lead .his recall is very good and every one is happier - me ,my dog , the other dogs (off lead ) and other owners .

The only tension comes when another dog is on a lead being held back by its owner .

Walk your dog in a big park away from cars were other people walk there dogs. 

 

[holloway]

19 minutes ago, Ultrastu said:

Leave him off the lead .

I very rarely walk my springer on a lead .his recall is very good and every one is happier - me ,my dog , the other dogs (off lead ) and other owners .

The only tension comes when another dog is on a lead being held back by its owner .

Walk your dog in a big park away from cars were other people walk there dogs. 

 

Trouble is that’s a complete pain in the *** for someone else who has an anxious dog with problems on a lead who doesn’t want to  take the lazy option,  your making your problem there problem which is a bit selfish .

Theres no easy answer to the question just good advice and time .

[Ultrastu]

I dont follow you .

the op said his dog is fine off the lead and is OK with other dogs . It's being on a lead that's the problem .that's an easy solution  .a lead conveys  stress down it to the dog  . A dog often goes into defence mode on a lead and not off it .

Where I walk my dog down my local park there are very few people who have their dog on a lead .and I've never witnessed  a fight or even much barking between dogs .it's a happy place for all dogs and owners  .

[bruno22rf]

Had one of my Springers for 7 years, pretty much identical situation as yours, he's still wary of strangers despite me socialising him at every opportuniy and nothing I try makes any difference, he is so intelligent it's almost unbelievable but a few beatings when he was a pup has destroyed every ounce of confidence in him. I hope yours pulls through.

[ShootingEgg]

25 minutes ago, bruno22rf said:

Had one of my Springers for 7 years, pretty much identical situation as yours, he's still wary of strangers despite me socialising him at every opportuniy and nothing I try makes any difference, he is so intelligent it's almost unbelievable but a few beatings when he was a pup has destroyed every ounce of confidence in him. I hope yours pulls through

I have had him at my shoot last season off lead round people and other dogs all fine, he is well bred so maybe that may be a part of it. He picked up retrieve hunting and no issues with **** withing a few weeks, swims like a fool which is entertaining for others as he slaps the water haha. 

As you say, I have a 5 month black hole so have had to start over at 5 months old. Which makes the social side hard. I take him to the local garden centre once a week to just walk round to show him there is nothing to worry about. 

My main concern is others thinking I have an aggressive dog when actually he is nervous so shouting for the sake of it

[12gauge82]

Teach him to focus on you the moment he spots another dog approaching while on a lead, if he doesn't react as he passes reward the dog with whatever drives it, ball, food ect. It will quickly learn to focus on you when seeing dogs and not react. Let us know how it goes.

[ShootingEgg]

1 hour ago, 12gauge82 said:

Teach him to focus on you the moment he spots another dog approaching while on a lead, if he doesn't react as he passes reward the dog with whatever drives it, ball, food ect. It will quickly learn to focus on you when seeing dogs and not react. Let us know how it goes.

Was doing this, looked to be working but then he would get a treat then gob off. So I stopped as I'd just be rewarding the bark... 

[12gauge82]

9 minutes ago, ShootingEgg said:

Was doing this, looked to be working but then he would get a treat then gob off. So I stopped as I'd just be rewarding the bark... 

Try being more exciting to keep the dogs focus on you or/and pass at a further distance that doesn't cause your dog to react, then slowly but progressively close the distance over time as he learns not to react. Also use whatever drives your dog most, in an ideal world if a toy/ ball is his biggest driver, that would work well as you can be more animated and engaging to keep his focus on you.

[ShootingEgg]

52 minutes ago, 12gauge82 said:

Try being more exciting to keep the dogs focus on you or/and pass at a further distance that doesn't cause your dog to react, then slowly but progressively close the distance over time as he learns not to react. Also use whatever drives your dog most, in an ideal world if a toy/ ball is his biggest driver, that would work well as you can be more animated and engaging to keep his focus on you.

Food is one of his biggest drives but as said he would be fine get a treat then bark. It's a very hard thing to sort knowing he had little to no socialisation as a puppy. Probably left in kennel until sold at 4 months old. Then 3 weeks with original owner then 1 in foster. 

Other than that he is a brilliant dog... 

[12gauge82]

4 hours ago, ShootingEgg said:

Food is one of his biggest drives but as said he would be fine get a treat then bark. It's a very hard thing to sort knowing he had little to no socialisation as a puppy. Probably left in kennel until sold at 4 months old. Then 3 weeks with original owner then 1 in foster. 

Other than that he is a brilliant dog... 

You might need to pass at a greater distance and gradually pass closer, or reward several treats as you pass until you are well clear until he gradually makes progress and you can get closer and reward less.

Use really high value treats and if possible walk him before he's fed to up his interest in the treats, I've always found wikinger type jar hotdogs broken into small pieces good for food driven dogs as they love smelly food. 

Even if you can't fully fix the issue, you should with enough exposure be able to vastly improve it.

Also remember to always keep it at a level you believe the dog won't react to detune it's sensitivity with other dogs, every time it reacts it's de training your progress.

And don't give up, it's something I've seen often 👍

[old'un]

You say he barks at other dogs when on the lead, is that dogs at the shoot or when you take him for a walk in the park? What distance are you from other dogs before the barking starts? Is he pulling hard on the lead when the barking starts or does he hide behind your leg and bark?