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Sharpening a hedge cutter


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I have a Mountfield petrol hedge cutter for about 15 years and it will cut upto stuff around 20mm thick. It's never been sharpened until about a month or so ago when someone offered to do it. I don't know why I agreed anyway it came back and you can see where its a a grinder over it. It doesn't hold its edge anymore so would I be better off removing the blade's heating them up and hardening them somehow or is it a lost cause. 

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Not much point in a picture as one tooth broke off so I had to make a new one and I then painted the whole blade, I do believe replacement blades are available, I just wanted to know if it was possible to harden them. 

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Deeping on the steel you will need to get the whole blade cherry red and then plunge into a bath of oil, then polish so the steel is bright and temper this to a straw/blue colour, like I said, it can be done, but unless you have experience of heat treating steel it will not be easy.

good luck.

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Home heat treatment is very doable with smaller pieces of steel but with something like a hedge trimmer blade it needs specialist heat treatment.

Yep, bet they are not cheap, pity you could not find one where the engine as gone kaput and is being sold for spares or repair.

 

Good luck.:good:

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I've tried everything -especially this time of year where I'll be flat out cutting hedges week after week till Nov- and a angle grinder with a 1mm blade is fine for a good sort out if you've whacked fence wire a few times, and pretty much all I've used for years. Until recently. Sat there looking at them I thought I'd give a Dremel a go. Game changer. One of those tube grinding bits about 3mm wide, so much easier to control, smoother finish, gets into the curve in the corner without makeing the pinch point and a lot faster. Thing is to remember to look at the rear of the blade, both sides wear so if you've not removed enough material to take the rear back to flat, it will feel sharp but won't be super sharp and last. You want it like a shear. A flat file is great for getting a even edge. As for over heating, after working for the council and seeing the way they butchered their blades and still cut I wouldn't worry one bit. 

Also I find eBay helpful for blades, often you can find a set secondhand for a quarter of the price which are nearly new. Chatting to one guy, he didn't sharpen his at all, he just carried on until he'd burn the motors out and then sell the machine, which suited me as I bought 2 units for £70, fixed one which is worth about £250 now and had a free set of blades which admittedly were very very 'blunt' but a emery cloth, alcohol spray to get the sap off and a good file are sharp, balanced and as good as new. 

 

Oh that's the other thing, probably as important as the sharpen. Get the sap off. If that's building up, those blades will never shear with that in-between them. Stihl spray is alright, but it's expensive, I use a trend circular saw sap remover and a spray and hard brush will get them up like new. 

Ignore the teeth, not a great example of even cutting but one side was newer

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Edited by strimmer_13
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3 hours ago, strimmer_13 said:

Sat there looking at them I thought I'd give a Dremel a go. Game changer. One of those tube grinding bits about 3mm wide, so much easier to control, smoother finish, gets into the curve in the corner without makeing the pinch point and a lot faster.

Do you have a picture of the bit in question?

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