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Who here Roofs Their Hides


bgrangeb
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I have switched to a 5 pole roofed hide as described by John Batley in his book The Pigeon Shooter. OK it restricts you if you try for those high overhead birds, but it's better for everything else. The pigeons just don't seem to see you and you have lots of room for shooting. You can build it exactly the same each time which is another bonus, you get it right and don't have to adapt to a new hide/setup every time you go out. :blush:

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Could anyone explain the 5 pole method to me?

 

From a plan view......You sit in the centre of a square of poles pushed in the ground around you...... now put the 5th one in the middle at the front and forward of the square.... now put the roof over the square but NOT the triangle at the front...... now make the front one lower depending if you shoot sitting or standing

 

Does this make sense ?

 

BTW I do use a roof more often nowadays

 

cheers

 

Malk

Edited by malkiserow
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No i tried it a couple of times and kept getting caught and it was everytime a bird was there, and as i am a fan of those high 'driven' birds then i won't use one.

pigeons see movement so as long as you sit still they won't see you. i have sat in a hide with 50-100 birds hovering around in plain view from inside my hide and when i sat still to wait for a nice bird they kept trying to decoy but when i stood up to take one they saw me so as long as you take the right chance you shouldn't need a roof, but everyone is different. i personally don't like the restriction.

 

charlie :lol:

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never tried keep meaning to but when in the field just want to get set up as quick as poss so just stick to what i can do best. i can see the principle behind it but like said providing you keep still and do not move unless to take the shot you should be ok. :lol:

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just wondering...

 

 

I do a comprimise....set up 2 cammo blinds in a "Vee" shape with a small gap in the front....then throw another bit of cammo over the top of the front of the "V" ....this gives you cover for you dog and all you **** and you can duck beneath it when high birds come in....the gap at the frount is to let the dogs out..............other scumbags tell me it is so i can shoot prone position when the birds have settled in amongst the decoys.....i hope you are reading this Adrian ? :lol:

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  • 4 weeks later...

I only put a roof on my hides when the wind is very light. This is because birds drop straight down at you and can see too much. Otherwise as has already been stated the important thing is for the back to be high ,it must be high enough to cover your hight otherwise birds will flare badly making multiple kills much more difficult. I always try to kill the first bird before the rest know I'm there. :rolleyes:

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I have switched to a 5 pole roofed hide as described by John Batley in his book The Pigeon Shooter. OK it restricts you if you try for those high overhead birds, but it's better for everything else. The pigeons just don't seem to see you and you have lots of room for shooting. You can build it exactly the same each time which is another bonus, you get it right and don't have to adapt to a new hide/setup every time you go out. :rolleyes:

 

I do exactly the same, and it makes a helluva difference with wary birds. You don't have the problem of gun snagging either in the net.

 

I've also taken to setting up against high hedges (Where applicable to feeding area) and putting the hide as normal, then drap a net or two from the front poles up on to the hedge behind, leaving room to shoot almost pillbox style with a 18" gap from top of hide net to roof. Also gives you more room in the hidde to move and see out of the sides and above without constantly clipping your head on the netting.

 

SS

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