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Hide Poles in hard ground


Mr Potter
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Any tips welcome and before anybody says it; Yes I should have done a search but you probably don't realise just how utterly lazy I am.

 

On the basis that the little field I have permission on eventually gets combined and the rain stops (personally hope it doesn't get too hot though) I will have the usual problem of trying to get my hide poles into quite hard ground.

I am sure we all have this problem but has anyone come up with a solution? I have either thought of or have read about one which I haven't done anything about yet (lazy *******) which is to make, or in my case have someone make for me, a solid steel dolly the same diameter as my poles with a sharpish point on about 10" long which I can hammer into the ground (and try to remove!) to create a hole for the hide pole to sit in. The downside is the additional weight of the dolly and the lump hammer but when decoying on stubble I think most of us can drive up to or very close to our chosen positions.

 

Any thoughts on this idea or preferably any better ideas. I had tried to hire a two-stroke post hole borer but the auger was too big and the poles would have been too wobbly :lol:

 

Mr Potter

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Any tips welcome and before anybody says it; Yes I should have done a search but you probably don't realise just how utterly lazy I am.

 

On the basis that the little field I have permission on eventually gets combined and the rain stops (personally hope it doesn't get too hot though) I will have the usual problem of trying to get my hide poles into quite hard ground.

I am sure we all have this problem but has anyone come up with a solution? I have either thought of or have read about one which I haven't done anything about yet (lazy *******) which is to make, or in my case have someone make for me, a solid steel dolly the same diameter as my poles with a sharpish point on about 10" long which I can hammer into the ground (and try to remove!) to create a hole for the hide pole to sit in. The downside is the additional weight of the dolly and the lump hammer but when decoying on stubble I think most of us can drive up to or very close to our chosen positions.

 

Any thoughts on this idea or preferably any better ideas. I had tried to hire a two-stroke post hole borer but the auger was too big and the poles would have been too wobbly :good:

 

Mr Potter

 

put a heel plate on your poles , it works for me

 

 

Wabbit

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A big engineering screw driver for making pilot holes . Or the screw on the mark 1 harnser magnet base for making holes for your poles . Yes poles with kick plates are better ,but some times the ground is so hard they still wont go in .

Harnser .

Edited by Harnser
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I had this problem and bent a couple of hide poles so i sawed off the cheapo nasty points and straightened out the poles..then I erm, cough , :lol:

acquired some of them metal stakes , the kind builders hang that orange net round holes etc...I think they are called road pins or pig sticks or whatever..Anyway, they are nicely pointed at one end..I then cut of the hook at the top..All i do now is hammer the stake into the ground and the pole then slides over that. :good: They are a bit heavy but luckily i can drive to the majority of my hides

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put a heel plate on your poles , it works for me

 

 

Wabbit

My poles are a mixture of home made and bought but they all have kick or heel plates but in previous years the ground at harvest time has been so hard that the poles have either bent or started to kink at the thinnest point of the tube i.e. just above the spike & kick plate.

The ground was too hard for the Mk1 Harnser magnet bases (brilliant ides by the way) but I like the idea of heavy duty hammer in sockets but I can see a problem getting them out of the ground at packing up time.

 

I have been thinking about my "joke" regarding the post hole borer. I wonder if I got hold of an old fashioned woodworking auger bit (based on the Archimedes screw principle) the same dia. as the poles, welded an extension on, perhaps 3' long, with an eye of some description on top, I could then use something, even the pole it's self to turn the auger. This would then drill a hole in the ground to slide the pole into. (If only I didn't spend every Sunday clay shooting I'm sure I could pick something up at a car boot sale for a quid).

It might be that I can borrow an auger bit just to try and if it works I just wont give it back :good:

 

Mr Potter aka Thomas Edison

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I had this problem and bent a couple of hide poles so i sawed off the cheapo nasty points and straightened out the poles..then I erm, cough , :hmm:

acquired some of them metal stakes , the kind builders hang that orange net round holes etc...I think they are called road pins or pig sticks or whatever..Anyway, they are nicely pointed at one end..I then cut of the hook at the top..All i do now is hammer the stake into the ground and the pole then slides over that. :good: They are a bit heavy but luckily i can drive to the majority of my hides

 

I do like this idea, rather than saw of the ends of my existing poles I would buy 4 or 5 new washing line props from the market at £1.75 per pole. I know were I can "borrow" the road pins and thats it, job done and I've got my original poles for when ground conditions are more normal for this green and pleasant land of ours i.e. wet and spongy :lol:

 

Mr Potter (Doffing his cap to a better inventor)

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I carry a 10 inch piece of round steel bar and a cut down hammer in with my kit and hammer it into the ground. This make the poles nice and rigid and in the summer when its hot the poles are firm enough to hang your coat on and pick the cartridges out of the pockets when shooting in your shirt in the hide. The extra weight of the bar and hammer is approx 25 cartridges.

 

Good Shooting

 

Pigeon Controller

Edited by pigeon controller
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