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D & J cartridges...filthy dirty ?


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A mate and I went halves on 1,000 D & J fibre-wad clay cartridges. Sadly, they leave leading the like of which I have never seen before. I only ever use fibre wads so am quite used to a little bit of leading.

 

It takes hours of scrubbing with a proper turk's head brush to shift the marks from these, though. Rather than the usual single streaks, the forcing cones look like they have been attacked by acid :lol: .

 

It takes ages to get the barrels clean again. Normally I only have to get the turk's head out every 500 shots or so, but these little blighters are clagging up the bore like nothing else.

 

Even my chrome lined Beretta barrel needs a shedload of serious rodding to get clean, and the non-chromed Lanber is like the labours of Hercules.

 

I'm looking forward to getting through this batch and getting back to something cleaner. Am I alone in finding them the filthiest cartridges on the planet ? What else should I consider as an inexpensive fibre-wadded clay shell ?

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D&J Cartridges are probably the cheapest ones you can buy, and your not the first to comment on how bad the fouling is.

 

Try Eley Olympic Blues or Firsts, still cheap enough, but no such problems with fouling. Just give the Eley Grand Prix Steel a miss though as these are dirty.

 

I refuse to use anything other than Eley through any of my gun (3.5" Magnum Goose load Remingtons being the exception in the semi Auto). I use Eley's for Clay Pigeons (Blues or Firsts in 28 gm 9's - 7.5's), Game (VIP in 32gm 6's), Pigeons (HB Pigeon Load 32gm 6's), Vermin (Any Eley in28gm - 36gm 7.5's through to 4's).

 

Good luck with whatever you choose to go with after those D&J's.

 

SS :lol:

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A mate and I went halves on 1,000 D & J fibre-wad clay cartridges. Sadly, they leave leading the like of which I have never seen before. I only ever use fibre wads so am quite used to a little bit of leading.

 

It takes hours of scrubbing with a proper turk's head brush to shift the marks from these, though. Rather than the usual single streaks, the forcing cones look like they have been attacked by acid :lol: .

 

It takes ages to get the barrels clean again. Normally I only have to get the turk's head out every 500 shots or so, but these little blighters are clagging up the bore like nothing else.

 

Even my chrome lined Beretta barrel needs a shedload of serious rodding to get clean, and the non-chromed Lanber is like the labours of Hercules.

 

I'm looking forward to getting through this batch and getting back to something cleaner. Am I alone in finding them the filthiest cartridges on the planet ? What else should I consider as an inexpensive fibre-wadded clay shell ?

try hull xlr white they are clean I use rios or xlr but if im taking life serious I spend a bit more and use hull sovereign

my scores go up with em.

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Hull special pigeon are dirty cartridges.

After a nights rabbit shooting from the back of the pick-up truck my Remington 11-87 is absolutely filthy on the piston assembly and magazine tube. It takes a good dose of wire wool to get the crud off.

The barrel is also covered in muck where the gases have come out at the top of the fore-end.

If I didn't get them free off the farmer, I wouldn't use them.

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These are the cartridges that my club use,can't comment on the state of the barrels after use as i'm still using another members gun as i'm still waiting for my cert to come through.Back to the problem i haven't heard anyone complain about it.

 

 

Forgot to say we use the plastic wad cartridges.

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Can't comment on the fouling issue, tend to spray Bisley bore cleaner down the tube, leave for a couple of minutes then brush through and always come up shining.

 

The major cause for concern was with the cartridge bases being pulled off when used in two different types of automatic. On one occasion the action cycled and the second shell almost reloaded completely pushing the previous now baseless hull fwd into the chamber/barrel.

This was on a 3" chambered auto and I am convinced that had it been a 3.5" chamber as alot of the newer guns are the bolt would have closed ready for the next shot....... not good as it was being used by my eldest daughter as her clay gun at the time. :good:

 

Needless to say they went back to the vendor and Lyavale were good in reporting back.

Won't use them in an auto anymore but are fine for the over and under

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D&J are just terrible. On the saturday my friend had a barrel blockage and did'nt notice, he blow the end of his gun up. Ok, this could happen with any cartridge, but on the sunday i was given a D&J fibre wad and that fired and the wad blocked my barrel. I checked and was ok. No such thing as luck, my friend should have checked. But i have shot 6000+ lylavale's and never had a blockaged. Reducing risk is what is important and D&J increase the risk if you ask me of a blockage.

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D&J are just terrible. On the saturday my friend had a barrel blockage and did'nt notice, he blow the end of his gun up. Ok, this could happen with any cartridge, but on the sunday i was given a D&J fibre wad and that fired and the wad blocked my barrel. I checked and was ok. No such thing as luck, my friend should have checked. But i have shot 6000+ lylavale's and never had a blockaged. Reducing risk is what is important and D&J increase the risk if you ask me of a blockage.

 

 

I had a Rottweill shell do this to me about 20 years ago and I have not fired one since, As someone alse has already said you get what you pay for.

 

D&J are cheap, and the only way you make something cheap is to cut corners. I use Express all the time axcept for wildfowling and have never had a problem.

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