fizzbangwhallop

Thanks… I might well give it a go then….👍 Just back in from cleaning up the wires into the connectors and fitting the new switch and relay and it’s jogging/cycling as it should. Result.😊 Had the old switch apart and cleaned the crud off the contacts.. looked like a combination of general switch crud and spark residue…back together and it’s working, second result! 😊 I’d had the iris mechanism apart this week and think I might just turn up some new brass bushes for the pivots when the brass rod arrives next week, the existing bushes were showing signs of wear. Re-fitting the spring can wait for that. Should be good to go… 👍😎 Cheers, Fizz

As a small, summer months clay club we run 3 of the Bidwell AutoSporter traps and a Promatic Pigeon single stack trap. We've been having a few electrical problems with both types of traps.. with the AutoSporter we tracked it down to a poor battery with not enough ooomph in it to get the arm to the roller stop switch… so the continuous circuit was over-heating the wiring. We've had a similar thing on the Promatic… which has resulted in it popping the 30a fuse regularly (although I think cheap fuses don’t help) and it’s burnt out the jog side of the 3 way switch….. Speaking to the helpful people at Promatic, I’ve now got a new switch and relay (might as well) to fit. They also mentioned that the Iris mechanism that prevents the rest of the clay stack dropping might have some dust/dirt/debris slowing the plates down, or the pivots might need servicing. Done that. So, my real question is whether it would be worth replacing the 30A Blade fuse with a thermal re-settable version to save over-heating damage and avoid having to look for a replacement blade fuse which is a right pita! https://www.altecautomotive.co.uk/durite-circuit-breaker-30a---12v24v----0-381-80-9818-p.asp The fuse pops when some noodle connects the battery the wrong way round too.. so I’m hoping this will sort that too? Any thoughts or suggestions gratefully received… cheers fizz

Henry Cole took a pair of bike stanchions to this firm in Luton for re-furbishment which included straightening them using a press iirc? May be worth a shot? https://www.amphardchrome.co.uk/history.php cheers fizz

👍 I’m running a couple of sets of these in my Foxpro….getting them posted wasn’t too expensive. cheers fizz

I’m running two pairs of those NCR’s…. with the latest pair arriving last week from ecolux. I know one of the originals came from Shane at CustomHunting with one of the first batch of Pard008’s into the country how ever many years ago that was now. Both pairs show the feint QR code under the wrapper ….so I’m guessing there’s nothing wrong with your batteries. ampsplus and ecoluxshopdirect are one and the same and the 10% discount code is Ampsplus23. cheers fizz

I’ve had a pair of these Esklines for a couple of years now for sitting up high seats…warmer than anything I’ve had before …although a bit “clumpy” as the sole isn’t that flexible.. but hey, who cares ….. my feet are warm! I bought them in preference to the antis at muckboot cheers, fizz

The Peltor EEP-100's are very good ... I found them better than any muffs including the heavy duty Howard Leight electronic on loading days. I use mine with the 'green' mini cens buds from Cleartone which I think are way better than the original options supplied (Isotunes sell something very similar) ... these buds have been going strong since I bought them a couple of years ago, washed them twice in that time! I got the Peltors from Earshot Communications..... If you go onto the Stalking Directory and search for EEP-100's you'll find plenty of reviews and comparisons. Cheers Fizz

Cheers 👍 The motor cover was an old aluminium baking tray, bent to shape and sprayed a tasteful green being the only can in the garage that still worked. 😂. It’s all mounted on an old chopping board, so all in all…. done on the cheap. Cheers fizz

The tap size is a 7/16th UNF using a 25/64 drill.... I bought this adapter from eBay...... Then, thinking lining a drill with that fixed in it might be a faff, I made this with a sewing machine motor from a sewing machine shop.... better quality than the chinese made ebay offers but I'm sure they'd do the job just as well. The pulley wheel was eBay too.... and its set up sounds it just pulls outwards running free... finger pressure on the pulley pushes it into trimming... too hard and you risk a friction burn!

Well….so far so good…. Just waiting for the engine and carb bits to arrive now then I can get it all back together and see if the engine actually runs! 😂 cheers Fizz

G’day all… thanks for the replies and the nod to Leach’s. Just re-measured the unthreaded section of the shaft at 0.496”/12.6mm so that could well be a fraction narrower than the cut of threads in the moderator which is a snug fit on the barrel’s threads. I’ve been having a play with ways to fit the kiddies 14” cycle wheel to the shaft… I’ve got various M10 & M12 bolts and the longer connecting nuts here… The M12 c’nut is ‘almost’ the same dia as the shaft so I’m thinking to drill it out, tap it to 1/2”unf but for added security, drill and tap a couple of 4 or 5mm holes through the sides for clamping bolts onto the shaft flats. That would’ve been straightforward but the M12 bolt is too big to pass through the wheel hub, tried drilling that but the in-wheel bearing surfaces are well-hardened and the drill isn’t touching it. 😩 So now I’ve bolted an HT M10 machine screw in there which locks the wheel and gives me a spigot. 👍 All I need now is an M10 to 1/2”UNF adaptor but all the local engineering supplies are now shut til Tuesday so I can’t buy any nuts/drill bits etc…typical! 🤣 But, the original set up had an aluminium ‘bike axle’ thread to 1/2”UNF adapter so I’m about to stick that in the lathe and take the bike thread end out to M10….and see what happens. Thanks chaps 👍 Cheers Fizz

Yep, tried a mod earlier and it does go on although a bit of a loose fit, I’ll dig the tap out tomorrow and offer it up. cheers fizz 👍😎

Brill! Thanks… I’ll have a look for a tap and, as it ‘appens, I know I’ve got one upstairs to clean up threads on some of my moderators! 😂 Cheers, fizz 😎

I’ve just taken on a ‘project’ to get the club’s old bolting rabbit trap working… it did power a kiddies bicycle wheel but that appears to have never been properly fixed to the drive shaft and just freewheeled on the makeshift axle. Not the best. The Suffolk is a model 75G 14 75cc Iron cylinder and head… got it apart, carb ultrasonic’d and cleaned, head off, de-carboned, valves re-ground and now just waiting for gaskets, float etc etc to arrive. The set up still runs through the clutch so I’m half-thinking to fix a wheel direct to the drive shaft but I’m damned if I can find details on the thread size to be able to attach a wheel to it. 🤨 Any clues gratefully received, the threads fit a 1/4” 20tpi Whitworth size gauge size but the shaft is 1/2” …. I’ll put my hand straight up and say I’m in the dark as regards Imperial threads 😂. I’ve also been looking at 12 & 14” wheelbarrow wheels but the narrow ones all seem to have hard rubber tyres which suggests that the running channel height is critical… again any suggestions gratefully received. cheers fizz

A few years ago J&P Springs over in the US had Miroku springs 👍 Just looked… nothing specifically marked as for the 800 but I’m sure they’d do their best to help https://www.jnpgunsprings.com/MIROKU-PARTS-c20995174 Edit… Damn, just noticed they no longer ship internationally. But, iirc Kinneys listed J&P stuff and as far as I know they still ship … Kinneys are really helpful 👍 cheers fizz