Alan Maughan

Good luck getting a reply, I PM'd him on the 18th May when he advertised this scope on Airgun BBS - still waiting for a reply. http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread.php?705947-Swaro-scope-3x12x50

PM sent

I have bought them from Bradford Stalker in the recent past.

PM sent.

I guess my point is does the new book Go Foxing cover the most up to date thinking and therefor make the original a little out of date. Im not the best reader, I get bored quite easily so dont fancy chewing through two books if one will suffice.

Can you tell me why you were less impressed with the second book? Doesn't it cover any new ground?

I am thinking of buying his book Foxing with Lamp and Rifle but would be intereted to hear from anyone who had read this along with his new book Go Foxing. My question is do I really need to buy both or does the newer book contain the best bits of the original plus the more recent developements. Also if anyone has these books for sale please drop me a PM.

From the Winchester Ballistics Calculator

Anyone?

Has anyone got any experience of these? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Moultrie-Game-Spy-A-5-Low-Glow-Inf-Red-Dig-Trail-Game-Dear-Hunting-Camera-5-MP-/161215471014?pt=UK_SportingGoods_Hunting_ShootingSports_ET&hash=item258930dda6 Seem cheap and to good to be true.

Have you heard of T20 red led torches? I have one on the gun, another in my pocket and a pair of sticks, not quads. I walk the fields with the rifle on my shoulder via a sling and do the lamping with the spare T20 from my pocket which has the beam defocused just enough to pick up eyeshine out to arounf 80-100yds. A quick scan of an area to spot the eyes then off with the light and walk towards the eyes until in range. Of the shoulder and into the sticks with the gun, point it where I hope the rabbit will still be and then on with the gun T20, aim fire. If other rabbits are near but out of range I will then walk into range using one hand on the sticks while keeping the forend in them, reposition and fire again. If on the stick and then the rabbit has gone you can either scan using the gun or the other T20 from your pocket, the pocket T20 is also used for picking up. Unless the rabbits you have are extremely lamp shy you will get within 40-50yds easy enough and a head or chest shot from sticks shouldn't be too difficult for most unless its really windy. Ive done all the bigger battery type lamps for years, this new breed of LED torches have really made things a lot easier and at around £40 each you are good to go for around £120 with 2x T20's, a gun mount, batteries and a charger.

Some big flocks around my permissions in Northumberland on the rape, one shot and they are gone, there's just too much choice for them.

Its a supersonic round, the crack from that alone far outweighs anything any silencncer can do.

The line could be the edge of you beam when it is square and fully focused or as already been said the wires of the led showing. Make sure your torch is pointing to where your scope is looking, this is best done with it fully focused and pointing at wall 15yds away, you should easily see the LED impression through the scope, just make sure it's in the middle of your sight picture then due focus it very slightly to get rid of the lines. Don't just take it for granted that your beam will be in the same place as your torch is looking at 50yds plus, it can often be out and refocusing the torch too much just robs you of distance. An adjustable torch mount is the best way to ensure torch to scope alignment.

Under what circumstances would you favour the WMR over the HMR?

Looks like your hole is getting smaller Dave Is this improving the DOF as I suggested?

I spoke to Scott Country today, the days of big waiting lists are all but over and they said they will have a significant surplus of Photons from early next week. £399 posted, thankfully this will end the crazy games on ebay and bring second hand values down to an appropriate level. I expect you will be able to buy a second hand one for £250 in the not too distant future.

If you didnt like the fact a .17 gets blown about then a .22 magnum is not the way to go. At 100yds in a 20mph cross wind the .17HMR is deflected 6 inches, the .22WSM is deflected 11.5 inches, ballistically the HMR is a much better performing round and the choice of ammo is much wider now. I cant think of many reasons why anyone would want a .22WSM other than is has a little bit more retained energy down range.

Can I ask what range was the badly damaged one shot at?

Did you import the Boyd's stock yourself, if so was it easy enough?

How was your batteries?

Check that none of the lenses, front or back are steaming up. It could be quite possible that because there is a mini TV display inside which heats up during use that it is creating condensation against the cold lens glass. I have had this problem with my T20 LED torches, it looked like the battery was going flat when in fact the condensation on the lens was acting like a diffuser. Ive given the lenses in my T20's a wipe over with RainX and they have worked perfectly since.

Welcome to the world of Yukon Photon, your findings sound very normal. After reading loads of reviews and listening to others experiences as well as my own I can only conclude that some people are more prepared to but up with its failings than others. The product needs further sorting, either by the maker or the tinkerers before I would go back to it again.

There is no 'best by far' moderator for the .17HMR, we are talking a couple of decibels at the most difference which doesnt make sense buying the expensive ones. I compared a SAK at £35 with an LEI at £135, no audible difference, either at the rifle or 100yds away. I would gladly pay £200+ for a moderator that made this caliber quieter but its just not going to happen, buy a SAK, it works and its easy to clean, then put the difference towards something else.

That was easily calmed down by fitting one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Deben-Tracer-Ledray-Red-or-Amber-Filter-GL2-or-GL4-/270798645887