CaptainBeaky

+2 (finance permitting!)

Oops - missed those out Punched out of milk-carton type card? Do I need to resize used cases like you do with brass cases?

Having shot impala59's BPS the other weekend (which has one of those neoprene covers on the stock), I would agree with your instructor - it appears to make the gun point quite a bit to the left of where I was looking. When I consciously squashed into the neoprene, the gun pointed straight, so yes, (I think) they do alter the cast.

An old meat cleaver, rescued from the local tip, post a little sympathetic cleaning. Stamping is, "England, Harrods Stores Ltd, Brompton Road", such dates it to between 1891 and 1920. Anyone seen one like this before? Any idea of value? It's in fair condition, edge is quite blunt, patina fairly even. The Management suggested I reshape it as a stage weapon, but I'm reluctant to hack up something this old!

Good plan! (Just not this side of January!)

Ok, so that is: Capper/de-capper RTO machine Powder/shot measure Powder Shot Primers Paper cases Anything I've missed?

Didn't you want a look at the gun as well?

Good idea, dear Can't search for a lot of this stuff at work, due to firewall rules. Yes, Google isn't ideal, but it's a good place to start - that is exactly how I would *start* a literature search for a work project. There is also a large pool of experience on pw, which would be foolish to ignore. Any suggestions for good books on the subject?

PM sent

All good information coming here Would I get enough Pyrodex in a 65mm case? Edit - OK, that probably is a silly question!

Is it as simple as that?

OK, I've used the search function, but my Google-fu appears to not be as strong as usual! Thinking of starting reloading, chiefly so I can use the sbs I've just picked up from bruno22rf, which is black powder proof only (wabbitbosher's Belgian Purdey-ish hammer gun). Hmmmm - don't need an explosives cert for Pyrodex - how difficult can it be? Yes, I know it would be cheaper to get it re-proofed for nitro, but where's the fun in that? So, my first question - will something like a Lee Loadall cope with 65mm cases, or will I need something expensively exotic to even consider it? (In which case, let's look up the number for the London Proof House!) Any suggestions as to how to go about this? All the websites I have found so far refer almost exclusively to 2 3/4" and larger cases. Thanks in advance

Tim Farron talking BS as usual. The court's verdict was purely on a point of law - i.e. that ministers cannot repeal an Act of Parliament under the Royal Prerogative - this is important! That's the way the system works - only Parliament can enact primary legislation, and only Parliament can repeal it. The European Communities Act 1972 is primary legislation, therefore ONLY Parliament can repeal it - which is, in effect, what invoking Article 50 does. The verdict made no political point - it was purely ruling on a (vital) point of law. Parliament has, wisely in my view, voted in line with result of the EU referendum - hard to see how they could do otherwise and still expect to be in a job the next time they are up for election.

Welcome, Oldfesta Don't worry, there's a few of us from the civilised side of the Medway as well

Saw this in this morning's Metro. Except they referred to it as an "antique-style weapon"...

Good to meet up, Roland. Yup, compak is... interesting ...

Testing has happened. Nothing broke. Nothing failed. Feeding CompX was slightly better.

...and collected And a charming old girl she is too. Now to start reloading...

This sounds like gloriously silly fun

Quivering with antici... . . . . . . . . . . . . pation!

Ooh... Ooooh You have pm

Butane torch, 1" Bullfinch head. The 1/2" head didn't get the heat in quick enough, and I didn't even consider using the 2" monster.

I still have a couple of Marksman bows - a 1974 Olympic TS4, and one of the original Portland take-downs with the rosewood riser, before they went all metallic

New thread set up, as there is more than my original post in the first thread... Ok, the Durafix kit turned up, testing was done, workshop time has happened. Second set of new ears, cast in place. I enlarged the original jokes I had drilled, and put in a pair of aluminium pegs (interference fit), then used the ali braze to build up the ears using the pegs as the skeleton. I then filed down to fit, keeping the ears broad for strength. The tricky bit was getting the trigger block to sit flush with the bottom of the action body - if it sits too deep, the bolt carrier jams on the top. If it sits too shallow, everything rattles, and jams. This bit was interesting There was noticeable damage to the top of the trigger block at the front left corner, next to the slot where the action lock bar sits. I suspect this was caused by the bolt carrier, due to the trigger block moving up and down - I patched this with the Durafix as well, and filed back to the original profile. You might also notice the shiny end of the action locking lever, which has been built up with a dab of weld, because that was also damaged, by the same cause - the movement of the trigger block was reducing the engagement of the action lock, causing it to wear on one side, and bite into the trigger block beside the action lever slot. I discovered that Numrich in the US have quite a few spares for these guns: a new trigger mech complete for $124? A bit steep, that, but a new action lock assembly is only about $15, so I thought, "Why not?" The answer was, of course, because delivery is extortionate! $15 for the part, $42.50 shipping, plus taxes on top. For that money, I can make a new one if necessary! As it turned out, it was fairly easy to build the lever tip back to it's original profile, helped by the photos" the Numrich listing (see? It was useful after all ) I did a lot more polishing after this photo, but forgot to take any more photos until I had finished putting it all together. Now all reassembled, and waiting for next weekend, when I can shoot it and see if this repair holds up. (Fingers crossed!) The action is now crisp and solid, with no slop when the bolt is closed, and it hasn't lost that lovely slick feeling to the slide. Next job will be to strip out the mag tube for cleaning and polishing out. Due to the number of times I have done it,I can now strip the trigger mechanism down to its component parts in less than 5 minutes...

New thread set up, as there is more than my original post in the first thread... Ok, the Durafix kit turned up, testing was done, workshop time has happened. Second set of new ears, cast in place. There was noticeable damage to the top of the trigger block at the front left corner, next to the slot where the action lock bar sits. I suspect this was caused by the bolt carrier, due to the trigger block moving up and down - I patched this with the Durafix as well, and filed back to the original profile. You might also notice the shiny end of the action locking lever, which has been built up with a dab of weld, because that was also damaged, by the same cause - the movement of the trigger block was reducing the engagement of the action lock, causing it to wear on one side, and bite into the trigger block beside the action lever slot. I discovered that Numrich in the US have quite a few spares for these guns: a new trigger mech complete for $124? A bit steep, that, but a new action lock assembly is only about $15, so I thought, "Why not?" The answer was, of course, because delivery is extortionate! $15 for the part, $42.50 shipping, plus taxes on top. For that money, I can make a new one if necessary! As it turned out, it was fairly easy to build the lever tip back to it's original profile, helped by the photos" the Numrich listing (see? It was useful after all ) I did a lot more polishing after this photo, but forgot to take any more photos until I had finished putting it all together. Now all reassembled, and waiting for next weekend, when I can shoot it and see if this repair holds up. (Fingers crossed!) The action is now crisp and solid, with no slop when the bolt is closed, and it hasn't lost that lovely slick feeling to the slide. Next job will be to strip out the mag tube for cleaning and polishing out. Due to the number of times I have done it,I can now strip the trigger mechanism down to its component parts in less than 5 minutes...