Range finding and holdover for a .22LR on bunnies

[safetyfirst]

Hi.

 

I took out my new CZ452 yesterday and zeroed it in at 60 Yards, getting good 1/2" groups with it.

 

Then I took it out to find some bunnies and discovered that my range finding skills are appalling. I aimed a couple inches above a bunny I took to be about 80 yards off then when I paced it out it was more like 110 Yards!

 

Do people think it's worth finding a rangefinder and using it for a couple of months, if so, what is a good inexpensive buy?

 

I've got a mildot scope which i thought would help me to know which dot applies to which range etc but didn't figure into the equation my terrible range finding skills!

 

Is there a particular zeroing range with a mildot scope and a .22LR with subsonic ammo that will give me usefull ranges on each of the dots above and below the target?

 

Thanks.

 

Chris.

[sheepshed]

Is there a particular zeroing range with a mildot scope and a .22LR with subsonic ammo that will give me usefull ranges on each of the dots above and below the target?

My setup is a Cz452 with Winchester subs and Bushnell Legend at 10x, zeroed at 50 yards

This gives 1 mildot holdover at 75 yards, 2 mildots at 100 yards

 

I've marked some fence posts around the bunny hotspots at 50 yard intervals, which I find helps with range estimation.

[safetyfirst]

My setup is a Cz452 with Winchester subs and Bushnell Legend at 10x, zeroed at 50 yards

This gives 1 mildot holdover at 75 yards, 2 mildots at 100 yards

 

I've marked some fence posts around the bunny hotspots at 50 yard intervals, which I find helps with range estimation.

 

Brill, thanks, excellent idea!

[Billy.]

65 yard zero is the optimum for a .22LR.

 

I have a rangefinder and it's a handy tool. I was using it last night and it helped no end, as I kept seeing bunnies and going for the shot, but then the RF said it was 100+ yards, so I knew not to bother.

 

The best thing about a rangefinder is that you can get the zero bang on 65 yards, which basically means point and shoot and it'll hit your target (within 85 yards)

Edited April 13, 2010 by harfordwmj

[peek-at]

I also have trouble estimating range.

The mil-dots will help you but as you say you need to be able to accurately estimate the range of your quarry....

rangefinders are expensive and there is a free way of doing it.

 

If you use the same permissions regularly, just pace out some 'landmarks' or use some kind of marker at paced out intervals. Use Sticks or take some tin foil out with you and wrap some stones with it. I find these are good when shooting at dusk as they catch the light from my lamp and they dont seem to bother the rabbits

 

You will also need to suss out what distances each mildot represents.

I have mine zeroed at 50 yds and use eley subs

 

aim 1 mildot high = 80 yds 2 mildots high = 100yds 3 mildots high = 120yds

 

Yours may well be different so target practice required!

 

 

 

cheers

[MC]

If you get a life size rabbit outline as a target and leave your scope on the same magnification then all you need to do is zero your rifle at say 65 yards and then put your targets out at varying distances.

 

You will then see how big a rabbit looks through your scope with your eyes at whatever distance. Also by knowing your zero and using the same aim point you will see what the drop is at various ranges.

 

If you are using a mil dot then you can guage the hold over required for each distance.

 

Simples :blink:

[kyska]

If you get a life size rabbit outline as a target and leave your scope on the same magnification then all you need to do is zero your rifle at say 65 yards and then put your targets out at varying distances.

 

You will then see how big a rabbit looks through your scope with your eyes at whatever distance. Also by knowing your zero and using the same aim point you will see what the drop is at various ranges.

 

If you are using a mil dot then you can guage the hold over required for each distance.

 

Simples

 

Exactly what I do :blink:

 

I just know how big the rabbits head against the image down the scope, I know it doesn't help immediately with rangefinding, but as the good advise above says, by moving back and forth you'll soon get an idea.

[Billy.]

Exactly what I do

 

I just know how big the rabbits head against the image down the scope, I know it doesn't help immediately with rangefinding, but as the good advise above says, by moving back and forth you'll soon get an idea.

 

 

What if it's a really really big rabbit :blink:

 

It'll seem closer than it is...

[al4x]

or a small baby one!

 

Personally I just got an HMR and don't really need to worry now :blink:

 

though there are other options to help, if its an arable farm asking the spacing of tramlines makes it dead easy, otherwise its a case of getting better at judging range as using a range finder is a little excessive IMHO with a .22lr

[MC]

What if it's a really really big rabbit :blink:

 

It'll seem closer than it is...

 

Then maybe there is an app for that

 

 

or a small baby one!

 

Personally I just got an HMR and don't really need to worry now

 

though there are other options to help, if its an arable farm asking the spacing of tramlines makes it dead easy, otherwise its a case of getting better at judging range as using a range finder is a little excessive IMHO with a .22lr

 

What is wrong with people from ******* hertfordshire? are they all ******* idiots? you offer some practical advice and you get wanky comments back and you always know who they will be from.

 

Whoever asked the original question ignore my advice competely and sell your .22 Buy a .17 and you never have to worry about what age the rabbit is or how far out it is, just point and shoot.

 

Unless of course you actually want to learn something and then ignore the above and do as I do. You will very quickly learn how to judge the distance and holdover as necessary.

[f.a.c.sam]

Alternatively some people use their parallax adjustment on their scope as a rough guide of distance in that when the picture snaps into focus that is roughly the distance, and it can be easily read from the AO or the wheel. However I would still verify this before attempting the shot. Also according to chairgun the optimum distance to zero a 22 in 54 yards which means from 12.7 - 61.2 you can shoot flat without any holdover and still be within your 1 inch kill zone, then after that out to 95 yards you only need one mild dot holdover maximum. Heres the charts from chairgun

[Billy.]

What is wrong with people from ******* hertfordshire? are they all ******* idiots? you offer some practical advice and you get wanky comments back and you always know who they will be from.

 

Whoever asked the original question ignore my advice competely and sell your .22 Buy a .17 and you never have to worry about what age the rabbit is or how far out it is, just point and shoot.

 

Unless of course you actually want to learn something and then ignore the above and do as I do. You will very quickly learn how to judge the distance and holdover as necessary.

 

So all rabbits around your neck of the woods are exactly the same size?!

 

I'm not trying to be clever with my answers, I'm actually being practical. Ever seen a Hare from afar and thought it was a close up rabbit?!

 

Bit cranky this morning MC...

[MC]

So all rabbits around your neck of the woods are exactly the same size?!

 

I'm not trying to be clever with my answers, I'm actually being practical. Ever seen a Hare from afar and thought it was a close up rabbit?!

 

Bit cranky this morning MC...

 

No of course they aren't.

 

The vast majority of rabbits shot most of the year are similar in size except for perhaps now as there are several young about. The method I described gives a very good starting point and also will demonstrate what holdover you need at whatever range.

 

However if you prefer to carry all manner of gadgets and charts when you go shooting then who am I to criticise?

 

 

"Ever seen a Hare from afar and thought it was a close up rabbit?!"

 

Nope, can't say I have. I have seen a far away Hare and thought bloody hell that hare is a long way off. Or a close rabbit and just shot it.

 

Cranky? No not at all, just suffer fools lightly.

[Ozzy Fudd]

best option is to pick up a cheap 2nd hand rangefinder, i got a bushnell one on here for £90 last year. theres plenty of different ways of doing it, marking out ranges, trying to judge using the scope, etc, but they all have problems - what if you dont have that area marked out, what if its hilly ground, what if its a young rabbit?

 

with a range finder you can also push the distance on your 22lr, i could confidently make a kill shot with mine up to 140 yards, though now ive got a 17hmr so the 22lr has been relegated to close range silenced work :blink:

[casts_by_fly]

I use 60 yards for a zero. For what I use the 22 for, most of my shooting is inside that range most of the time. However, I do stretch it out to 125 or so, so I checked out my mildots. On 10x with a 60 yard zero, the first dot is 85, then 105, 125. Within the range of my estimations, that is as close as I need to know. I have a range finder and I know pretty well what my distances are from slope to slope where I'm shooting. The only slow down come when I'm shooting across more of the flatter portions as the fields are big and can be deceptive.

 

thanks

rick

[MC]

best option is to pick up a cheap 2nd hand rangefinder, i got a bushnell one on here for £90 last year. theres plenty of different ways of doing it, marking out ranges, trying to judge using the scope, etc, but they all have problems - what if you dont have that area marked out, what if its hilly ground, what if its a young rabbit?

 

with a range finder you can also push the distance on your 22lr, i could confidently make a kill shot with mine up to 140 yards, though now ive got a 17hmr so the 22lr has been relegated to close range silenced work :blink:

 

 

Does your rangefinder tell you what holdover to use as well?

[Paddy Galore!]

or a small baby one!

 

Personally I just got an HMR and don't really need to worry now :blink:

 

though there are other options to help, if its an arable farm asking the spacing of tramlines makes it dead easy, otherwise its a case of getting better at judging range as using a range finder is a little excessive IMHO with a .22lr

I agree! there is no substitute for practice. Try using target boards first, they're easy to make and you can practice rangefinding that way. It saves just wounding the bunnies if you should be a little "out" on your distances.

[al4x]

Does your rangefinder tell you what holdover to use as well?

 

 

you're having a pedantic day today MC :blink:

 

logic sort of dictates if you've got a rangefinder to work out the range you will have something to tell you what drop to expect at that range

[MC]

you're having a pedantic day today MC :blink:

 

logic sort of dictates if you've got a rangefinder to work out the range you will have something to tell you what drop to expect at that range

 

 

No not at all,

 

when someone posts asking fro advice and then every reply gets pulled apart with smartarse comments it really makes you wonder why you bother at times. I mean after all you forgot to mention what happens if you get a leverett? maybe occasionally you get a round without any powder in it. The list of variables goes on and on.

 

I do not own or use a rangefinder, I do not see the need for one. I can judge distance quite well without one within the effective ranges of me and my equipment. By putting life size rabbit pictures out at differing ranges helps with instantly picking a shootable one and leaving the rangey ones until you are a bit nearer.

 

If you have a rangefinder and a ballistic chart you then need to know how to equate that drop into what you see through your scope.

 

My method does all 3 in one without poncing around with gizmos.

[kyska]

Obviously the size of the rabbit will alter things very slightly with my method, I'm talking about averages, you get to know the distance from how big the target is in the image!

 

To be honest a half grown and a full grown rabbit don't really have much different sized heads, same as teenager and adult people, a very young rabbit is easy to spot.

 

It works for me, and I'm sticking to it!

[al4x]

I was going to mention a leveret but was actually pointing out a simpler way round the problem than a rangefinder. I do have one and its very handy, but I do only use it when foxing or shooting corvids with my .223 and then only when they are 200 yards or more as that is hard to guesstimate.

 

I may have sounded flippant when suggesting an HMR but I never got on with a .22lr with the lamping we do most shots are 80 yards or so which is when it starts getting loopy, which is when range makes a big difference with it

[Billy.]

MC, have you ever considered that everything has pros and cons.

 

Your reasoning behind the use of a rangfinder is ridiculous. It's about the size of an old mobile phone and is no burden whatsoever to keep in your pocket. You say that you can accurately judge distances, but I can accurately judge distances to +/-1 yard and then work out the holdover from memorising a graph.

 

There weren't any smart **** comments from anyone. Each person was just drawing up a negative for that means of distance/holdover calculation. Your bad point for a rangefinder is that it's big. However I find it a bit hypocritical for you to criticise something you've never actually used...

Edited April 13, 2010 by harfordwmj

[Bazooka Joe]

I do not own or use a rangefinder, I do not see the need for one. I can judge distance quite well without one within the effective ranges of me and my equipment.

 

Agree we MC, one thing I haven't got the time for, is to **** About with a range finder....lets face it, how far do you want to shoot with the 22 ?

 

A bit more experience in the field shooting at different ranges would be well spent, than investing in a range finder....centerfire a different story.

 

Forgot to add, using the same bullet all the time is paramount,

 

BJ

Edited April 13, 2010 by Bazooka Joe

[MC]

MC, have you ever considered that everything has pros and cons.

 

Your reasoning behind the use of a rangfinder is ridiculous. It's about the size of an old mobile phone and is no burden whatsoever to keep in your pocket. You say that you can accurately judge distances, but I can accurately judge distances to +/-1 yard and then work out the holdover from memorising a graph.

 

There weren't any smart **** comments from anyone. Each person was just drawing up a negative for that means of distance/holdover calculation. Your bad point for a rangefinder is that it's big. However I find it a bit hypocritical for you to criticise something you've never actually used...

 

I seem to remember saying I do not own or use one. I don't remember saying I have never used one. I also don't remember saying that it is big.

 

Well I guess that as you can accurately judge distance and also have a photographic memory you never miss either?

 

Your comments about what happens if the rabbit is very big and Al4x's about being small were what I consider to be smartarse. And you cannot accurtaely judge distance at all, you rely on an electronic gadget to measure it for you. All you do is look through it and press a button. But then I shouldn't know that as I have never used one :blink:

[al4x]

smartarse or based on experience that one of this years young looks like a proper rabbit but is half the size! so throws the distance estimation right out, though most of my shooting is at night so daylight it is easier