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pestcontroller4u
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what im asking is if the gun will zero at 10 and 15 yards with the same size grouping will i get the same size grouping at a 30 yard zero

Right, get you now, answer to that is I don't know but suspect someone will.

It's gonna depend on the trajectory which is going to vary depending on various things such as ft/lbs output, pellet type and even the individual rifle.

I believe there's a free programme called Chairgun pro which can help you draw up a chart to show zero and range, point of impact etc.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Right, get you now, answer to that is I don't know but suspect someone will.

It's gonna depend on the trajectory which is going to vary depending on various things such as ft/lbs output, pellet type and even the individual rifle.

I believe there's a free programme called Chairgun pro which can help you draw up a chart to show zero and range, point of impact etc.

 

Just took your advice on Chairgun Pro, it's great! :good: You do need a chrono to get your Muzzle Velocity but a very useful feature is that you can determine, given a particular pellet, what your optimum zeroing distance is. This effectively gives you a known range (if you were a photographer it would be the 'depth of field'!) over which the pellet will strike within half an inch of point-of-aim (or you can make it more fussy if you want - Change 'Kill Zone' value). Try it out, it's very easy to use :)

 

Post Script: Having just had a bit more play with it, simulate shooting up into a tree by changing the Incline value to about 60 degrees and see where your pellet goes...

Edited by greywolf1958
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Just took your advice on Chairgun Pro, it's great! :good: You do need a chrono to get your Muzzle Velocity but a very useful feature is that you can determine, given a particular pellet, what your optimum zeroing distance is. This effectively gives you a known range (if you were a photographer it would be the 'depth of field'!) over which the pellet will strike within half an inch of point-of-aim (or you can make it more fussy if you want - Change 'Kill Zone' value). Try it out, it's very easy to use :)

 

Post Script: Having just had a bit more play with it, simulate shooting up into a tree by changing the Incline value to about 60 degrees and see where your pellet goes...

Glad the advice was good for you :good:

:blush: have to admit I'd love to be able to use it meself but I'm to PC Illiterate(stupid) and couldn't make head nor tail of it or how to start. :blush:

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If you are getting let's say a half inch group at 15 yards then in realistic terms you can expect a one inch group at 30 yards! What I would advise is that you decide on what your average range for shooting at is and zero at that range. Once you have zeroed your rifle at your "ideal" range you can then experiment at different ranges to check on the trajectory of the pellet so that you know what compensation you need for shorter or longer shots.

In my opinion the only way to improve on your accuracy/grouping is through plenty of pracitce which (let's face it) isn't expensive with an air rifle and has to be better than sitting in on a summers evening watching the telly!

Good luck with it mate!

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Glad the advice was good for you :good:

:blush: have to admit I'd love to be able to use it meself but I'm to PC Illiterate(stupid) and couldn't make head nor tail of it or how to start. :blush:

 

I'll be happy to talk you through it one evening, it's very easy once you understand what you are looking at. Do you have Skype or MSN Messenger?

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what im asking is if the gun will zero at 10 and 15 yards with the same size grouping will i get the same size grouping at a 30 yard zero

(I misread the original thread and went on to write an explanation of dual-zero points, which I've deleted as irrelevant! Sorry!)

Edited by greywolf1958
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If you can shoot a true 5 shot one hole group at 15 yards then your pellets will strike a 5 shot one hole group at 30 yards-but in reality it would never happen.

hiya chap,not blowing my own trumpet here, but me and my guns regularly shoot a one hole 5 shot group out to 35 yds(takes years of practice)you got to know your combo inside out and put the hours and i do mean hours on the range..keep it up and youll get there,however i have been shooting springers for 34 of my 40 years :good:

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It's all user error that's the problem!

A bad workman always blames his tools!!!!

Zeroing at 30 yards is the way to go then use your milldots for under over this distance, how many 15 yard shots does anyone get in the field? Not much I bet??

Most bunnies or woods will be 25 yards away before being spooked so go for 30 yards and problem solved boys

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  • 4 weeks later...

if you zero your .22 air rifle at 10-15 yards i would imagine you would be able to do so at 30 yards,or it it possible at 30 yards your barrel may not like the pellet?

 

air rifles have primary and secondary zero points, where the pellet rises as it leaves the barrel, then drops back to itz set zero, so if you zero at 28 metres (my chosen zero, as my garden is that long), then the pellet will be no more than 10mm/1/2 inch from target, from about 8m to about 32m, hope this makes sense. Then its just a matter of learning the aim points for hold-over and hold-under :good:

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air rifles have primary and secondary zero points, where the pellet rises as it leaves the barrel, then drops back to itz set zero, so if you zero at 28 metres (my chosen zero, as my garden is that long), then the pellet will be no more than 10mm/1/2 inch from target, from about 8m to about 32m, hope this makes sense. Then its just a matter of learning the aim points for hold-over and hold-under :good:

 

The pellet rises as it leaves the barrel??!!

 

The pellet APPEARS to rise as it leaves the barrel. Its actually just meeting up with your cross hair which basically means you are always shooting slightly upwards. Hence the pellet looking like it magically 'rises' as it sets off on its merry little mission..

 

Pedant mode off. :lol:

Edited by pabs
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