22lr range for subsonics and zeroing range differs by so much?

[Billy.]

Like i say i used to use a 60 yds zero myself believing it gave me a slight edge out lamping but did quite a bit of ear piercing on the bunnies about 40yds.

 

I'd be ignorant if I didn't at least try out your zero. I'll get the rangefinder out this weekend and let you know how I get on

[kent]

swap it at some point for an HMR you'll be mighty impressed, all this playing with loopy trajectories is for people that like to talk about it more than shoot

 

treating them the same again why not swap the HMR for a hornet and get 1/2 the windage amounts at just 100 yds and something reloadable thats truely fox capable and from my current experiance slightly quieter. Loopy is as loopy does m8 point and shoot to 60 yds on heads further if you start chest shooting. Although the HMR can do this 40-45 yds further those longer ranges still need wind correcting at very similar amounts to the .22, rarely will you find true nil wind 100yd bunnies, so what do you do then - aim off! The HMR will never unsettle the crown of the .22 mainly because it is different and has its own useages.

All calibres are different al4x, knowing them as they are rather than with rose tinted specs and a condecending misplaced feeling of supriourity helps you pick the right tool for the job at hand. Nothing has ever compared to the .22 subsonic for cleanly harvesting rabbits at sensible ranges on foot- never will either!Its cheap to feed, totally silent when moderated all you hear is the impact and never blows anything to bits

 

You talk a lot yourself you know

[kent]

I'd be ignorant if I didn't at least try out your zero. I'll get the rangefinder out this weekend and let you know how I get on

 

 

I can't lay claim to it, its been known for a long time than i have been around- also covenient as 50 yds indoor ranges are very common, wonder why? Indeed when you think of it .22 rimfires evolved in the days of iron sights so aim off had to be in limited amounts in the field

[dadioles]

Hi there Taxi Driver

 

Stick with it and you will really appreciate the hitting power and range of the .22lr as well as its quietness.

You will be shooting accurately and reliably.

 

First of all, are you using the most suitable bullets for your gun? When shooting paper targets off a bipod are you getting groups that can be covered by a 2p coin at 55 yards. If not, that needs to be sorted out first. With practice at that range you should be grouping within a 1p coin without too much difficulty.

 

When you have found a good accurate make of ammo that suits your gun, don't change, stick to the same ammo or you will lose all consistency.

 

Zero the scope on a paper target set at 55 yards firing groups of 3 or 4 bullets until you get this right. When you are accurately zeroed don't mess with the settings.

 

55 yards should give you the optimum distance for relatively flat shooting and put all your shots within a 1" circle from about 15 to a little under 65 yards with no holdover or holdunder. With more experience you will choose your own optimum distance to zero but this will get you started.

 

Now make up 10 paper targets, use A4 paper with the "X" about 1.5" down from the top of the page (to allow for bullet drop) and put one every 10 yards from 10 yards out to 100 yards, do this accurately not by pacing. A fun way to spend an hour or two. Ammo is cheap, be prepared to get through a couple of boxes of it.

 

Lie down and fire at least 3 bullets at each target aiming exactly at the "X".

 

You will find that at 10 yards bullets hit nearly an inch low, at 20 yards it will be almost a bull (first zero point), at 30 and 40 yards you will be half inch high and then getting back nearer the "X" at 50 (second zero point is 55 yards) then progressively dropping after 60 yards until at 100 yards it is almost off the bottom of the paper with a 6" or greater drop.

 

On a sheet of graph paper, plot distance along the bottom and inches on the left and then add dots to represent where the bullets landed. Draw a reasonable curve through the averaged "bullet holes" and that is your reference chart for the trajectory.

 

You can then decide whether to use holdover to correct for bullet drop or adjust the click stops on your scope. Most people just estimate holdover visually as it is quicker. At 80 yards aim at the top of the rabits ears, for example.

 

I have attached a bit of the graph that I made up for myself and it shows the "kill zone" which is the area the bullet will land in with no holdover or holdunder. I use a kill zone of no more than 1 inch which represents the size of the brain of a head shot rabbit.

 

Your graph will be slightly different to mine but probably not by too much. It depends on the height of your scope above the barrel as well as the characteristics of your gun and ammunition.

 

The 55 yard zero point was chosen as it gives the greatest kill zone, for my gun (flat shooting). If I had zeroed at 65 yards there would be a big gap in the middle of the kill zone with shots at 40 yards going at least an inch high. I just want an easy life and to know that when the cross hairs are on the rabbits head from 15 to 60 and a bit yards, it is a kill. After about 65 yards I have to apply correction and aim high (I actually use ballistic turrets and dial in clicks to compensate - sniper style).

 

I hope that helps a little and not confused you even more.....

[bullet boy]

I've zeroed my Ruger 10/22 @50 yards using Winchester Subs.

[Colster]

I had similar "knowledge" given to me when I first got an LR. Zeroed at 60yards and the holdunder for those 30-40 yard bunnies has to be allowed for.

 

Now I use 52 for both LR and HMR and as far as the LR goes it's flattened the peak out no end. It's pretty flat shooting out to 60-65 now.

[kent]

Well then, I guess I'm destined to remain a 'plinker' rather than a 'Shooter'

 

I don't have the capacity/ability or the patience to get to technical about it all,(heavens I can't even use chairgun and god knows I've tried) and as for hold over/under, sheesh !! I use Hawke scopes with the 6A reticule and I suppose in an ideal situation I'd be able to know what each dot/gradient above and below the centre increased/decreased my POI.

 

I'll stick to range I know I can shoot accurately, just a shame I bought a 22lr to do summat I can do with air rifle.

 

Thank you all for the input chaps.

 

Listen up i have yet to meet the man who can headshoot rabbits at 60 yds easy enough with a 12 ft lb air rifle, if i ever do meet him he will be holding over a great deal and also under and off to the side. No need to get tecnical about it just zero at 50 yds and hold true unless theres a fair wind blowing just go for the head at anything within fair range and switch to the chest thereafter, just limit your range acordingly and you will never need hold over

[kent]

I had similar "knowledge" given to me when I first got an LR. Zeroed at 60yards and the holdunder for those 30-40 yard bunnies has to be allowed for.

 

Now I use 52 for both LR and HMR and as far as the LR goes it's flattened the peak out no end. It's pretty flat shooting out to 60-65 now.

 

i assume the 52yds is for convieniance as 2yds will make little difference you can decern on target at least. It is however just a tad further than the distance a HMR should first cross the line of sight IMO on most set ups your peak trajectory is maybee a little on the high side as a result, not much but a little. Why not develop your 52 yds zero target for the hmr for a set point to stike slightly high for a measured amount? About 40 and 100 is the flatest point and shoot curve with the peak around 80- most but not all HMR rigs admitedly some barrels are slightly faster or slower and mount hight has a part to play. I have just done similar with the Hornet after deciding on a 120 yds zero i simply measured how high it should shoot at 50. This gives me the facility to check zero when i have stock in the big field i normally test in or if its real windy

[Colster]

i assume the 52yds is for convieniance as 2yds will make little difference you can decern on target at least.

 

Yep, distance from my drive (using bonnet of 4x4) to the bank at the bottom of the garden.

[mjj160]

I use my Sako Quad 22LR fitted with Hawke 4-16x 50 scope on golf course's to which I have found that I can not get as near to the bunnies as I would like, as they see me and are off.

So what I have done is experiment with using the scopes mildots as an aiming point, only thing one needs to do is have accurate distances, since I am not too good at guessing them I have invested in a range finder. Therefore this is what I have found and works for me.

 

35m -- 2 mildots up

50m -- 1 mildot up

75m -- Zero

85m -- 1 mildot down

100m -- 2mildots down

 

Using eley subsonics as found them to be very accurate in this rifle

Mike

[Paul223]

why not zero at 50 yards, practice until your able to get good groups then move the zero further out and practice some more, get to know the 'loopy' characteristics of the round and see how far you could safely and humanly push it?

 

get a hmr as well

[Haytime]

I know this is an old post, but I followed Kent's advice and found it to be spot on ....I have also spent the whole day getting to know my CZ through this process and feel confident using it for the reason I got it....Rabbit Bashing

 

It's a sound piece of advice and well written...I even did the graph. I shall be using it on the HMR when I have laundered enough money through the joint account :yp:

[jgguinness]

......when I have laundered enough money through the joint account :yp:

Snap!! SWMBO goes nuts even when I give her the half price version!!

 

Jonathan

Edited May 20, 2012 by jgguinness

[stubby]

just noticed the date

Edited May 21, 2012 by stubby

[peek-at]

Well then, I guess I'm destined to remain a 'plinker' rather than a 'Shooter'

 

I don't have the capacity/ability or the patience to get to technical about it all,(heavens I can't even use chairgun and god knows I've tried) and as for hold over/under, sheesh !! I use Hawke scopes with the 6A reticule and I suppose in an ideal situation I'd be able to know what each dot/gradient above and below the centre increased/decreased my POI.

 

I'll stick to range I know I can shoot accurately, just a shame I bought a 22lr to do summat I can do with air rifle.

 

Thank you all for the input chaps.

 

 

Hey fella, turn that frown upside down ..........Its easier than you are making out !

You have a CZ 22LR which are fantastic guns. All you need is a bit of practice and you will soon see that your your 22LR reaches much further than your air rifle.

If you are not into charts etc just learn about your gun using targets

 

Personally I have mine zero'd at 50 yds. 1 mildot = 70yds 2 mildots = 85yds 3 mildots = 98 yds

As others have said, choosing your zero point can be a personal preference but this works for me.

I can point and shoot out to 60 yds and still be in the 1 inch killzone. (get a lazer rtangefinder-worth their weight in gold)

 

[ging125]

Get out.

LOL

[pat g]

Well then, I guess I'm destined to remain a 'plinker' rather than a 'Shooter'

 

I don't have the capacity/ability or the patience to get to technical about it all,(heavens I can't even use chairgun and god knows I've tried) and as for hold over/under, sheesh !! I use Hawke scopes with the 6A reticule and I suppose in an ideal situation I'd be able to know what each dot/gradient above and below the centre increased/decreased my POI.

 

I'll stick to range I know I can shoot accurately, just a shame I bought a 22lr to do summat I can do with air rifle.

 

Thank you all for the input chaps.

You have'nt bought a 22lr to do something that you can do with an air rifle. You simply can't compare an air rifle whether it be sub 12ft lbs or FAC air to a 22lr. An air rifle can not do what your 22lr is capable of doing. The 22lr will kill more efficiently than any air weapon and at greater range. I certainly would'nt attempt shooting rabbits at more than say 55yards with FAC air. Theres to much margin for error. Remember you are lauching a 38-40 grain bullet with the 22lr as compared to say a 15-16grain airgun pellet. Theres a massive difference.

Take heed of Kents advice. The 22lr is still the best tool for effective Rabbit control particularly under the lamp.

My 22lr is zero'd at 70 yards and i know my aim points. This is key to success and this why you need to learn your aim points. Take your time, set out targets at measured ranges and practice, practice, practice. And when you've done all that practice again.

I have taken Rabbits up to approximately 85 -90 yards with my 22lr but in normal circumstances most of my Rabbiting is done at somewhere between 45-75 yards. If i'm expecting to be shooting Rabbits at more than that then yes i will take my HMR.

There has been much hype since the introduction of the HMR and i think this in part due to perhaps newer less experienced shooters. The HMR has its place,of course it does, but it is not the be all and end all.

As a Stalker said to me recently when we having a discussion about this very topic, when i mentioned the HMR he said "why try to re-invent the wheel" and thats exactly it.

So basically up to say 85yards 22lr, anything over that and up to say 150yards 17HMR. Anything over that and you're into Centrefire territory i.e Hornet 17REM etc.

But don't think you've wasted money on a 22lr because you have'nt. What you've got is probably the most effective tool for Rabbit control .

Enjoy

ATB,

Pa

[telf]

+1 .22 best rabbiting gun,wouldnt be without it,practice and more practice.Have a look in the sporting videos section for mays rabbits by cooter thats what a .22 is capable of

atb dave