Modified LED lamping torches.

[Dave-G]

It's not that bad. I think the first one I did took me about an hour to modify the reflector with a drill press and a grinder. Then another hour to remove the MCPCB, cut a chunk of copper, and glue it all back together. 2 hours work, but it was essentially free.

I don't think any of us will go down that route - were shoot-aholics not flash-aholics.

 

 

 

The spacer I use is still aluminium. So it transfers heat nicely. If you do want to improve it, you can always wrap it in aluminium or copper foil. This does help a bit. The next step is to thermally glue the pill into the head. I tend not to worry about these extra modifications and have always found that the body heats up very quickly (a sure sign that heat energy is making its way out efficiently).

Not too bothered about the heatpath because it's only on for a few seconds at a time.

 

 

If you want, you can use the thin threaded lens retainer as you describe. My spacers to fit into it. However, in my setup, I just discard the thin threaded lens retainer.

 

Or if you're making your own, you can use this retainer in front of the lens to force the lens deeper into the head.

 

 

 

So that's a proper IR LED is it? What brand / type is it?

I can't see any writing on it, it looks like four mini emitters in a square array:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/280845340730?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

 

I also have a 5w 850nm one:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270927139810?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

[pat 1]

I was very interested at the start of this thread thinking that I could get a good light for rabbit shooting for twenty or thirty quid. However as the thread progressed I got more lost everytime a new post went up. You two guys obviously know what you are talking about but unfortunatly I dont. I am not electronically minded which yous obviously are. To cut to the chase would it be possible to buy a fully funcional light from one of you.?. Barring this could one of you post a simple list of parts and simple instructions for making one. I know that is what yous are trying but I still cant understand. Light making for dummies is what I really need Also instructions on a good cheap spotting lamp would be great. Yous know the fleecing we get going to buy in shops and I think your expertise is something we could all benefir from Finally I would like to take this oppertunity to thank you both for what seems to be a very worthwile thread which no doubt those brighter (pun) than me can benefit from.Thank You.

[digit]

I was very interested at the start of this thread thinking that I could get a good light for rabbit shooting for twenty or thirty quid. However as the thread progressed I got more lost everytime a new post went up. You two guys obviously know what you are talking about but unfortunatly I dont. I am not electronically minded which yous obviously are. To cut to the chase would it be possible to buy a fully funcional light from one of you.?. Barring this could one of you post a simple list of parts and simple instructions for making one. I know that is what yous are trying but I still cant understand. Light making for dummies is what I really need Also instructions on a good cheap spotting lamp would be great. Yous know the fleecing we get going to buy in shops and I think your expertise is something we could all benefir from Finally I would like to take this oppertunity to thank you both for what seems to be a very worthwile thread which no doubt those brighter (pun) than me can benefit from.Thank You.

I'm with you,i've been following this but haven't got a clue what they're on about.A parts list would be a great idea

[JDsniper]

Yes please a parts list is what we need

[Dave-G]

I'm chuffed to bits that someone else is interested in this. The basic parts for a 100+ yard lamp are on the first post. That will get you well on the way - and those parts are simply swap over and are self explanatory but here is a quick guide in case you really are 'non-DIY' instead of just saying you are.

 

Buy the flashlight off ebay. Buy the mount off ebay. Buy the lens and reflector off DX. Sand/grind down the edge of the lens till it fits in the head of the torch, I found a sharpening stone does the job in less than five minutes. If you can't scrounge a stone off dad or grandad ebay has puhlenty cheap ones. Sand off the smooth surface of the reflector, paint it matte black and swap them both into the lamp. I can't explain why the reflector needs to be black - it just does so... just do it... as Arnie Swarzenegger would say.

 

Enjoy red light lamping.

 

You will then probably get the bug for even better: Just because you can - and you will by then have a better idea of how to refine it when Ash has taught me/us what to do.

 

Please don't be shy about joining in - and ask anything you want to know. If the explanations arn't clear by the time your torch and mount get here from ying tong land ask again. If you have the funds - bearing in mind these are cheap as chips you might like to get two - I use one without the pressure switch for spotting and one with the pressure switch under my thumb for shooting.

 

When you have this setup for rabbiting you will realise Filament bulb lamps and trailing wires to large battery packs are so yesterday - and now only really needed for over 120 yard lamping with the basic set-up I currently have or perhaps for using on new ground that you really ought to have learnt in daylight anyway.

 

I'm anticipating the ahorton version will reliably achieve rabbit recognition to at least 150 yards.

 

EDIT: If you use a hand held one for spotting - it might be better to use the standard reflector: This will give some spill in a wider beam to spot eyeshine better and less range so it won't concern bunny as much.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Dave-G

[bigman]

do these lenses fit in the led lenser p7?

[Dave-G]

do these lenses fit in the led lenser p7?

 

No idea, sorry. Does that have a red LED? It would be pure luck if it did - and the led was the same distance from the lens.

 

I'd guess that DX had them made specially to swap into the p60 host torches - at the correct distance from the LED because there are so many variants sold.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Dave-G

[Fisheruk]

I think I have the idea, but I wonder if one of you boffins could do a video of you upgrading an actual job. I think that would be very helpful. ATB

[Dave-G]

I think I have the idea, but I wonder if one of you boffins could do a video of you upgrading an actual job. I think that would be very helpful. ATB

 

Remember how B A Barracus in the A-Team don't fly?... I ain't doin no instruction video.

My face is too ugly, my Cornish voice isn't very nice - and I got teeth missing so have a lisp!

 

It's easy peasy when you have the bits in your hands I promise. Here's the itsy bitsy little thing on my HMR:

 

 

No reflections off the sound mod back into the scope. It's so tiny and light it lives there permanently. I can swap white or Infra Red LED's into it too.

Edited June 18, 2012 by Dave-G

[Dave-G]

I think I have the idea, but I wonder if one of you boffins could do a video of you upgrading an actual job. I think that would be very helpful. ATB

 

The latter part of this clip shows the reflector out of the torch head - and being removed from the pill. The black reflector replaces it.

 

 

[roughcoat]

Well you seem to be a very shy lot, umpteen views but hardly any replies makes me think there is hardly any interest. Having been more than happy with the cheap Dx lens results I am up for getting even longer range out of these ahorton lenses, particularly when we consider the cost of other lamping rigs.

 

The bonus is that we can put white or IR drop-in bulbs in them too, and replacement 'bulbs are cheaper that halogen bulbs many other lamps use - not to mention the massive current it takes to run them. a tiny rechargeable single cell lasts me two lamping sessions because they are only used a few seconds at a time.

 

If nobody else has any real interest in this break through I'll just go ahead and order some for the torches me and my brother have. Anyone who wishes to group buy them for better prices that we can get with individual orders please say how many you'd like and we'll have an idea of what price they might end up at delivered to the UK - and then to ourselves.

 

I am prepared to do the buying and distributing but please - since I am the one who has brought this group buy idea to this forum I hope somone else will agree to take control of it so that I'm not thought to be making any funds from starting this thread.

 

I'll start the list off, please add to it below any comments you wish to make in your replies so that the final line contains the updated list:

 

 

Dave-G wants 2 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit.

Group buy total 2 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit.

 

Could you put me on the list for 1 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit will you let me know how much and who to pay. Atb Rob

[Nial]

I'm definitely interested but before I order one of the torches, how do you charge the battery?

 

 

Nial

[Dave-G]

I'm definitely interested but before I order one of the torches, how do you charge the battery?

 

Nial

 

The torch runs on two CR123'S (not rechargeable ones)

or one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-Li-ion-18650-Rechargeable-3-7v-Torch-Protected-Battery-3600mAh-Charger-D274-/170858659555?pt=UK_Sound_Vision_Battery_Chargers&hash=item27c7f83ee3

 

Protected li-ions are better than non-protected ones apparently.

[Dave-G]

Could you put me on the list for 1 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit will you let me know how much and who to pay. Atb Rob

 

Job done roughcoat thanks, the price will depend on how big a group buy we can get together.

Broadly speaking 30 AUD = 20 GBP ish, + what it cost to repack and post them in the UK with paypal/bank charges etc. I'm hoping a volunteer will step forwards to do that.

 

 

Dave-G wants 2 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit.

Roughcoat wants 1 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit

 

Group buy total: 3 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit.

Edited June 19, 2012 by Dave-G

[ahorton]

I haven't tried with a LED Lenser, but I'm told it can be made to work. This would be a more complicated build than a P60 mod. This guy is part way through demonstrating it.

 

As for cells (what you call 'batteries') and chargers: I advise against the Ultrafire ones. They are very cheap but you get what you pay for. Firstly they only have a bit more than half the stated capacity. Secondly the chargers often don't follow very strict charging procedures and will probably damage the cell and shorten its life. I think the best cells out there are the Panasonic 3100mAh ones. These have a different chemistry that is both more efficient and safer (they don't start fires). The brands I trust are: AW, Kallies Customs and Xtar. Xtar being the best value and they have a great charger too.

 

Whatever you decide: Only ever use protected cells. If a cell is not listed as 'protected' then do not use it. The protection is a circuit that shuts down the cell if it is charged too high or discharged too low. Without this protection there is a very high risk of fire and lithium explosions. All your laptops and mobile phones have this sort of protection circuit.

 

Another comment about the Ultrafire cells and charger on ebay that were linked to: It tells me that they're in Australia. The Australian postal laws forbid sending lithium cells. So there's no way those cells are being sent from Australia for that price. My guess is that it's actually in Hong Kong.

 

 

Edited June 19, 2012 by ahorton

[Dave-G]

Outstanding video Ash, above and beyond mate. It's so much better than a thousand typed words.

 

Thanks for the heads up on the lithium cells too.

[digit]

Great video, i can see what your on about now

[Nial]

OK, put me down for a lens and spacer kit too please.

 

BTW, when researching batteries and chargers I found this guy....

 

http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/big_f_d_d/?_trksid=p4340.l2559

 

....if you check any of his battery listings you'll see he's measured battery ratings and his recommendation is to stay away

from anything with Ultrafire in the name like the plague.

 

Torch and bits ordered.

 

Nial.

[ahorton]

His info is a little old but it's still accurate in what it says about certain brands.

 

Just ignore him when he suggests using unprotected cells. No manufacturer would advise it. The only use for unprotected cells, is in a large multi-cell pack (where you use one protection circuit for the whole pack).

[Dave-G]

Good work on the cell research Nial, group updated buy thanks.

 

 

 

Dave-G wants 2 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit.

Roughcoat wants 1 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit

Nial wants 1 P60 aspheric Lens + spacers kit

 

Group buy total: 4 P60 Aspheric Lens + Spacers kit.

Edited June 19, 2012 by Dave-G

[Dave-G]

A question please ash:

 

I guess most users have their torches turned on for quite some time as they walk through the countryside, down an ally or whatever so a not glued in LED would become an issue when it's got hot.

 

Hunters on the other hand don't wish to give their presence away to their quarry so will use the torch very sparingly for a few seconds at a time, and the LED is unlikely to get very hot?: Need we then have much concern about if the LED is glued?

Edited June 19, 2012 by Dave-G

[ahorton]

A question please ash:

 

I guess most users have their torches turned on for quite some time as they walk through the countryside, down an ally or whatever so a not glued in LED would become an issue when it's got hot.

 

Hunters on the other hand don't wish to give their presence away to their quarry so will use the torch very sparingly for a few seconds at a time, and the LED is unlikely to get very hot?: Need we then have much concern about if the LED is glued?

 

If you don't want to glue it, then you need some other method of making sure it doesn't fall out. The grease by itself may hold it in place for a while, but eventually it will slide off. At that point you'll have almost no thermal transfer (-> dead LED) and you will have lost focus (-> weak beam).

 

In most cases, I think you'll find it is already glued in. I just wanted to cover everything. Have you tested yours?

[Dave-G]

If you don't want to glue it, then you need some other method of making sure it doesn't fall out. The grease by itself may hold it in place for a while, but eventually it will slide off. At that point you'll have almost no thermal transfer (-> dead LED) and you will have lost focus (-> weak beam).

 

In most cases, I think you'll find it is already glued in. I just wanted to cover everything. Have you tested yours?

 

Thanks ash. I've had a poke round one of them seems ok, the others are on the guns in the gun cabinet and I've not checked them yet. The ones having your spacers on will be checked before fitting.

[Dave-G]

Pigeon English for Pigeon Watch:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-2-Part-Component-Thermal-Glue-Like-Arctic-Silver-Aluminum-Adhesive-/200721651815?pt=UK_Computing_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item2ebbf15867

[ahorton]

Pigeon English for Pigeon Watch:

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Phobya-2-Part-Component-Thermal-Glue-Like-Arctic-Silver-Aluminum-Adhesive-/200721651815?pt=UK_Computing_Thermal_Compounds_Supplies&hash=item2ebbf15867

 

Yeah that stuff is probably fine. Arctic Alumina/Silver glue/epoxy are very good. Honestly, any epoxy or glue that can bond metals and survive 80 degrees C will be good enough for you.